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burn4005

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Everything posted by burn4005

  1. E85 is f**king gold. Even if you don't use it to its potential timing wise it is great engine insurance. Egts are low, it won't knock, engine is super clean. Happy days
  2. My take is Higher compression engines are: -more thermally efficient, less heat out the exhaust (lower EGTs) which spools the turbo slightly slower. BSFC improves. -better off boost due to torque improvements -won't eat as much boost (dynamic compression) as low compression engines do. on a large engine with a small turbo (8374 on a 3.2 is a small turbo in my mind) it makes sense as you won't get much boost into the motor anyway before you overspeed the thing. I just hit the speed limit of an 8374 on a 2.6 at 8000rpm and 27psi at 490kw. so a 3.2 with the same VE% at around 6300 rpm you'll have the same boost limit. if you rev any higher you'll either have to taper it off, or run less boost, as the torque produced is really going to work your gearbox. its hard to know where the 1.05a/r housings limit is, as we were stonewalling the compressor and had a compressor speed limiting function in the ECU, adding boost wasn't really making any more power as the ECU was just pulling the target down anyway. it would be interesting to throw a 9174 core in there to see what happens with the 1.05 as it would be running near peak efficiency where this one is falling off. I wish I had an EMAP sensor, but the wastegate duty was quite telling. at about 7000rpm and up we had to really start ramping the duty in to maintain boost target, whereas below this point it was pretty flat. compressor efficiency was really starting to dive up here so to maintain shaft power by increasing exhaust expansion ratio it looked like this: (I'm using a 4 port 12w MAC valve and a 7psi spring in the gate, also using solenoid deadtime function in the emtron so real duty is about 12% more) running the thing on E85 also makes the decision much easier.
  3. Probably need more crank prime at warmer areas
  4. and for shits and giggles, here is the 91mm compressor. looks like a damn good fit too if you're heading for more boost.
  5. here is my dyno log over the 8374 compressor map. the 8374 is a pretty good match for an rb26. I've moved the air flow scale slightly to make the turbo speed lines line up better. I would also expect the pressure ratio to be slightly higher due to air filter and intercooler pressure drop. I'm just using MAP here. you can see why they snap on so hard, it goes right through the peak efficiency zone when it's spooling.
  6. It's a powerhouse racing one, and I'm using a sard venturi pump in place of the tiny stock one for the saddle transfer
  7. it is! part of me wanted to crack 500kw but the rest of me is over the moon (and i'm over 650hp so I'll claim that instead)
  8. Forgot to mention that the 490kw was done with Bosch 1650s, stock R34 fuel lines, stock fuel rail stock nissan filter single in tank pump (pierburg l3lm at 17.5v and pwm control) Aftermarket fuel hat Diff Fuel pressure drops from 45 to 42psi from idle to redline with fixed pump speed but can be ramped in to keep it flat. Pressure at pump outlet is probably much higher!
  9. Dyno today 87mm rb26 on e85, 260 9.15 cams 8374 on a 6 boost 490kw at 27.5psi. 126k rpm full boost at 4600rpm haven't played with cams or closed loop boost control yet.
  10. front cut rebirth job?
  11. they just replace the stock ones. no difference in sound. you can tighten them up with the preload screw if you want a bit of compressor surge but otherwise they're silent.
  12. true,I'm not using it, want to be able to change turbos easily without mucking around in future. its a bloody small hole for a 9180 compressor though considering its the same size as the one on the 6258.
  13. lol the only Garret that might displace my EFR is a med/large frame G series if/when they ever get released.
  14. Big single turbos sound f**king stupid without a bov. I got sick of it after about 60 seconds when i tried it on mine (hooked BOV lines to pre-throttle source to keep them shut) https://youtu.be/d6I7_Or4w7c?t=1m18s
  15. I hope you called them as you need 38mm adaptors to suit the GTR piping (part number 5238). and they are NOT a listed part on their website or through resellers.
  16. GFB do BOVs called mach2 that fit the stock location. model number is T9105 for the pair. they do make outlet adaptors that are the right size for the GTR recirc pipe, so they're a direct replacement but you'd have to call and order them direct from GFB, not from a reseller. about $350 from memory. I've got two installed in place of the stock ones that failed a boost leak test and they are working great. they were a direct fit, plug and play,.
  17. The absolute best fluid unless you are going to change it right before every track day is Castrol SRF. its a Silicate Ester fluid, gives a slightly softer pedal feel. but its wet boiling point is MILES ahead of the competition. (270c for SRF, 204c for RBF660). they all start around 320-325 dry, but as soon as they start absorbing water (which is immediate, they are hygroscopic) the SRF is the better fluid. its dear as poison ($110/L) but flushing brakes all the time sucks. and ends up being cheaper due to way less flushes.
  18. Sparesbox have 20% off on eBay all the time but I'm not sure they actually can get their hands on them/have stock
  19. Also I ALWAYS use inconel bolts on the turbo flange.
  20. put up the precision turbo data Lith.
  21. yea the 8374 getting close to all in at 26psi/65%, but the 84 is just getting started. literally off the chart... might be hitting a sonic stonewall or something so they stopped mapping to the right, still fine rpm wise.
  22. https://bmw.spoolstreet.com/attachments/c92a58335a9c242d64ec466cfc9172ee_zpsniwwkwsu-jpg.13075/ Man I wish the 8474 was a thing.. maybe too good to be true. 20-25-30psi 77-84-91 lb/min also, G series hopefully scales well. Med and large frames are going to be beasts. if the G25-660 is smaller in every way than a gtx3071.
  23. on an RB26 12 teeth is plenty as it is operating at high speed when ignition timing is important ( and at high speeds the errors are less) under boost/load 1 degree makes a magnitude more difference than under vacuum). it depends how important rock solid idle timing is to you (we are talking ~1-2 degree error though). on a slow revving, high torque high compression engine (diesel for example) where the power strokes are slow and strong you would want more teeth. 36+ I went a 36-2 as i like the engine starting one crank sooner and my engineering OCD got the better of me. my kit came from JHH racing, they weld either a 12 or 36-2 wheel to a 1000hp ATI balancer and supply a sensor and bracket that bolts to oil pan flange. excellent bit of gear.
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