RB335

Hi Guys. I'm putting together my 2.8 engine. The exhaust will start off with a HKS 272 10.2mm lift. Eventually I wanted to experiment going with very big lift, such as JUNS 272 which has 11.35mm lift. I can only imagine to get that lift, the lobe will have a more agressive ramp and get more lift earlier in the duration. This question is for exhaust only as I won't be playing around with the intake. So far I had been under the impression high lift with same duration only ads benefits and no drawbacks. Can anyone with experience with this add some input?

Yes that work in the pictures was done at Cut Corners Red Tuning

The shop I used in Beckenham returned my car like this. It's a small sample of the amateur work done Turbo oil drain fouling on turbo manifold, look at it beginning to bubble up. Brought them a brand new gearbox to fit, they put no oil in it and Dynod it like that. They told me to not let it become a subject of an online forum discussion Drove a 50mm long bolt into the RB26 fuel rail mount thread replacing the existing 40mm Plazmamann one already in there. It bottomed out onto coolant rail, mount snapped, proceeded to Dyno car with snapped fuel rail mount. As I like to make fair assessment, I bought a spare manifold/spacer assembly and on the bench I was able to mock up that the installed bolt was indeed too long and caused the failure. Be careful on your choice and ensure you get good work regardless of who you choose. You earned the money fairly.

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Hi All. I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for a good dial gauge kit that they've used on an RB26. Got to get the gauge located right at the correct spot and angle and a good sturdy base to sit in the valley. If anybody has done this before I'd much appreciate any recommendations.

Very few people who I'd trust in WA to tune, but also have a GTR in their care, even the usual recommendations a bit hit and miss lately from feedback

Hi Guys. I've got Nismo S-Tunes in my R33 GTR. I like the ride comfort and handling but at times you can still feel the car could do with something better. I'm hoping to retain good comfort that the S-Tunes give but get better handling. Has anyone here on a R33 GTR personally switched from S-Tunes to something else and can give feedback? I have read reports from a guy who went from S-Tunes to Ohlins and loved the difference in both handling with still soaking up the bumps well. Having heard that feedback they will have to be the go, unless there is something locally produced in Australia that can be just as good if not better Other option is MCA Reds which always appear to get recommended. Oddly, Nismo and Ohlins have spring rates almost even, while MCA have the front almost double of the rear. Hell even if the entry level MCA Comfort-Pro's are going to be better than dated Nismo design, I could start with them. The car also does have 700hp, currently grips perfectly with no wheelspin, I was thinking to go the Ohlins as they aren't too heavy spring rates to help give some squat under power Any advice appreciated keen to hear your experiences Cheers.

GFB DV+ T9360 is a re-circulation valve designed for OEM used BW turbos, while not officially advertised to fit an EFR by GFB, I have tested fits on an EFR. All bolt holes align. Plunger seal is pretty much the same diameter as the face inside the compressor housing so it seals. Piston is workable length to be able to vent when fully compressed into the BPV body. One slight issue is outer seal on compressor housing doesn't sit in factory grove but still sits on a flat surface on the compressor housing

It doesn't look like they are testing each turbo to their potential. Both are tested at 25 PSI, where as they should run whatever boost is required for the specific turbo to make all it's power it can, that might effect the midrange somewhat.

Hi Guys I've got an R33 GTR. It has a brand new gearbox with only about 2000km on it and it appears to have what is a noisy input shaft bearing, I don't know if it's that or if something on the clutch could be causing this noise such as the throwout bearing or pilot bush. The tuner said its the input shaft bearing and that they all become noisy as soon as you put some decent single turbo power through them. Is this true or not? A gearbox shop said it could have ran out of oil from high speed driving since that bearing is at the front of the box. Here is the video of the noise, any help appreciated. I'm unsure if this is common or could just be a bad bearing from new inside the box It's pull type, has an Exedy Carbon sprung clutch When you press the clutch in, it goes away. The thing is... it goes away also when you begin driving, doesn't get loud on load or acceleration, which I'd imagine a noisy input shaft bearing would. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LEGlTI7KNDs

Making 50% of max power by 4500, that's amazing. Tempting me to switch from my 8474 to twin 6258s Is anybody able to take measurements of the EFR9280 compressor, I'm seeing if I have enough clearance on my engine to run and test it compared to the 9180 which I have on me which fit fine on a 6boost T4 in a R33 GTR engine bay

I thought I'd bump this thread up rather than starting a new one on the same subject. What are the power limits of a Coppermix twin before they begin slipping when in good condition?, have any of you guys tried pushing 600-800hp region and what have your experiences been. In a GTR, unsure if that makes a difference since the driveline loads it more. I've seen some pretty light driveable clutches used in very high power turbo BMW's but not available in Nissan style. I run a Exedy Carbon D but looking to try something quieter.

Does anyone have a 1.45 rear housing for sale or one they would sell for an EFR8474 message me thanks.

Nosure your housing looks much better and could I say, passable. It still has that same messiness on the bottom of the housing, where mine had loose bits of aluminium floating around. I might add, regardless of whichever way any views would try to see around the defects, it's not a matter of whether it effects performance or not. Ask yourself from what you see, would a housing like that be of acceptable or unacceptable quality. Would you be OK continuing to buy into a product where standards are beginning to slip?

Hi Geoff I can't accept it. Yes what you are doing so far is appreciated as I can see your set on sorting it out, kindly see if you can visually inspect a housing to confirm it's good before sending out, then send an a replacement through to the distributor I purchased it off as I'll be safely keeping this turbo off the engine for now. I will not be doing a T51r mod as a band-aid you suggest to fix defects I've bought an EFR8474, no the no-cost housing sent out is worst, basically torn coke can like in areas. You won't get this with Garrett and their distributors never or rarely let people down if there's an issue, even Precision are putting out nicely put together products so with the BW marketing off as top-tier you can't accept something like in the picture and video. What Lith says isn't unheard of or a surprise

Received 2 8474 front housings distributed from Full Race with poor defects. Not sure if it's just a bad batch but from what I've seen from BW lately, things are getting worse turbo by turbo that I've purchased. My EFR7670 was good, 9180 was OK, but these are a abject joke First one had loose bits of aluminium rough casting inside on surge ports all ready to be sucked right into our new engines. After they agreed to remedy, behold here is what we get, another play school housing. Would you guys run these? The replacement housing sent to remedy it :

What data do you have and what tests have you done with a 9280?

The big issue here that needs to be explored is, many tuners who've put out a lot of high HP cars have noted they feel the EFR turbos simply don't make the power they are supposed to do or have to be pushed too hard compared to similar sized turbos from other brands when they reach their upper limits Peter from PMC race engines did mention that the RB won't respond well to an EFR9280 simply as the rear side is too small to let the engine breathe for the flow it can make, too much pressure in the manifold. I don't know if the above is fact, kinda fact but not too much of an issue or not too much of an issue This further begs the question with the EFR8474, being such a high flowing front end, coupled to a small rear end, can it go as hard a as a 9180. We will find out once I'm done with my 9180 and more boost

A small update on my car is now still at the shop getting things running with the EFR9180, the EFR8474 has arrived. There appears to be some wastegate issues. We are making around 500hp'ish region on 20 PSI on 98 from the info the tuner has given. The car now has big flowing exhaust and cooler so we put it on the Dyno and those are the results so far. Driving it on the street, all I will say the 9180 with Vcam enabled does not feel laggy like a classic all or nothing big turbo, it's surprisingly smooth and the car moves. There is twin TIAL MV-S 38mm units both controlled through the BW EFR solenoid. We are trying to command over 20 PSI but it simply does not want to make more than 20 PSI, the boost tries to go above and comes down. The BOV is blocked off with a Turbosmart plate. At this moment I am unsure if there is a fault with the gates or whether the solenoid isn't able to bleed off enough air from all the vac line plumbing fast enough to keep them gates shut until higher boost is achieved. We will investigate further and once rectified I will report back. This is the first time I have run twin gates and not a lot of people around where I am do so, so any advice or your own experiences if you have similar setups are appreciated. For now here are some pictures of the 8474, it still looks like quite a big turbo but everything is a step smaller except the front wheel inducer.

I couldn't edit my post soon enough. Otherwise I'll have some 8474 vs 9180 feedback soon excluding 9280 which I'll be doing, it won't be perfect but good enough for a rough comparison, I'll post that when I manage to get a hold of a 8474 which I'm keen to test out in the near future.

I'm happy to do some dyno comparisons and provide data if it's valuable enough to us all, but I can't fund all of it myself. I can provide a 9180, 8474 and some dyno time from my own pocket. If you guys want to see how it stacks up against the bigger brother 9280, I am able to do this and will need some funds for dyno time, and a 9280 either : lended to me, or crowdfunded to me. The re-sale of that extra EFR turbo after tests are done will then be re-funded back to everybody in proportion minus difference for "second hand sale". I also may not be able to fund the additional R&R + dyno time for the 3rd turbo myself, and may require funds to do this, as the tests are to be done as back to back as possible, so unbolting, re-fitting will be charged as time the car takes up on the dyno. I personally run mild cams in the car for a street idle, but for test purpose I will also require 272/272 cams or similar in the motor for the test to allow the big 9280 to breathe up top, it.s a 2.8 with a 1mm oversize at the moment. It is in hopes the test should show the response between the 9180 and 9280 to those considering what an upgrade may do and how the "Black" series performs. It also will show if the 8474 can deliver 9180 "like" flow, while being considerably more responsive, which has been the issue of much speculation I'll probably throw in a few mild cam and big cam runs with the 8474 if of interest to anybody if I (and we?) can stretch the budget enough. I plan to do the bolting, unbolting while car is on the dyno, not taking it off, then doing it another time. So everything will be charged to me as Dyno time. It is a brand new motor that is run in with everything working how it should be. If enough people can contribute to this, I'm happy to provide my credentials so you can do a check on me.

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We did a test with a standard EFR BOV with a low power setup and we were seeing slight leaks even at 25 PSi region, where we got a little increase in power by blanking it. So it's definitely something to address. This would have been the pre mid 2018 one. My Nitto 2.8 Vcam 264 / ex 260 setup with EFR9180 will be on the Dyno in coming weeks. I'm looking at then using this same setup to test a 8474 to see if the front end can produce 9180 like flow. Then also looking at testing a 9280, to see how it compares against a 9180.

Hi Guys. This question is for any people who've built a 2.6 or 2.8 with a high compression ratio or tuned it. My CR is currently 9.6:1 on a Nitto 2.8. I want to go higher while still being able to have it be a pump gas motor for street purpose. I have flex fuel and a Haltech Elite. The highest my tuner has done is 9.5:1 with no problems on both. I've heard of a few running 10:1 but no idea if they are E85 dedicated or not. Any higher I've been told is a try it and see how it goes sort of thing. I've been told having the CR too high can upset the engine in the way that it can't be tuned as aggressively on higher boost and as a result may be more tame than a lower CR engine which can be tuned "all out" in the higher boost levels. I've heard of many big power 2J's running high comp but not many RB's It's a 800-1000hp car. Any advice appreciated if anybody here has built one or tuned one. Cheers.