RB335

Hi Guys. I'm wondering if anybody knows which 100mm cooler on a R33 GTR can keep the mesh. 9/10 people say they had to cut the tabs so remove it but I have heard isolated situations of it clearing such as a HKS one that somebody reported. I also know that HKS and Blitz i think released some new coolers too. If anybody can report something they use off the shelf that works let me know please, prefer with swept tanks to suit OEM pipes. Hypertune was test fitting their new 100mm intercoolers and came back to me it doesn't clear. So I'm looking into the Jap brands. Cheers.

Hi Guys. My engine is finished and awaiting to be tuned. The idea is building a responsive car with a smooth idle and street manners. I have gone an EFR9180 1.05, I like the idea of the new 9280 but for 100hp more it doesn't seem like a big step up unless it has some hidden merits that I don't know of. Seeing factory cammed cars have made good power on single turbos, I wasn't looking to go too big with cams, so I settled on something that will still let the car idle nice. Some basic info on the power making stuff : Nitto 2.8, custom spec pistons for 9.6:1 C:R Ratio HKS Vcam Step 2 - 264 inlet 9mm lift. Tomei 260 9mm lift Exhaust 1mm Oversize valves, ported head and worked chambers Hypertune ITB inlet manifold 6boost Twin Scroll manifold. Twin TIAL MV-S Gates. EFR9180 1.05 Haltech Elite 2500

Does anyone have a 9180 for sale?

RB26DETT head - Sonic Tested - Blasted - Decked - Valve seats machined - TOMEI Bronze Guides installed Price: $1500 Location : WA, Can Post

Hi Guys. I'm after a EFR9180 or 8374 Cheers

Hi Guys. So in pursuit of making my RB26 a well even and smooth running engine I've done a lot to it, putting all the best bits on it I'd like to know some more information on the Nismo and Greddy manifolds. The question is do they make the engine run smoother and respond better. The theory is these try to get the airflow to each cylinder as even as possible, especially fixing the 6th lean condition. Speaking to many tuners about it and a lot are in disagreement, most say with modern ECU's you can adjust the individual injector to ensure a proper A/F mixture so these manifolds won't help. My theory still is though if one cylinder is getting less airflow, for that power stroke it makes it is making less power and pushing down with less power down the crank, and the engine won't ran as smooth. So my first question is, while the theory exists, in practice how much of a difference does it make - I don't mind spending the money if it makes some improvement in your guys experience if you've ever done back to back. I know a lot of SR guys notice improvements when they put aftermarket OEM replacement plenums on but have not heard so much talk with RB26's Much reading I done mentions that this helps get the twin turbos working more evently, I'm running a single though. The 2nd question is, Greddy or Nismo, big price difference. And which ones can or can't be replaced with the engine in, apparently the engine needs to come out for these to be fitted. The Greddy one i wonder why is a 2 Piece. I'm also considering, the Hypertune multi TB plenum

So Guys. What is the consensus with the 7670? There appears to be only 1 person who has run it here on a worked RB, that being Kinkstaah on your 2.8 with VCT. I'm going to be running a very similar setup : RB28 Nitto 2.8 with 9.5:1 Compression HKS Vcam 264 in. Tomei 260 out I'm going to have my 7670 on there and probably end up bolting a 1.05 rear housing to it. But from seeing the results people are saying the 7670 on these bigger engines while will work, will give no added response over a 8374 and make less power - while not proven but that's what I'm getting from the hearsay. So does anybody have any real results from the 7670 ?

Hi Guys. Does anybody have a Vcam Step1 phaser and/or cam for sale? Also chasing a 1.05 rear housing for a 7670 if anybody has one spare. Cheers.

Hi Guys. I'm going a custom stroker kit on my RB26 it's going to be about 9.5:1 comp ratio. My tuner has tuned heaps of them on Pump and no tuning issues. He hasn't ever done any 10:1 2.8 stroker kits yet and we don't know of too many people or any at all that have gone that high. I'm posting here to ask if anybody here personally has done so and how was tune-ability like on Pump and did you run into any issues. I will be running a Flex fuel setup anyway. Thanks.

ATS Ebay Link https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ATS-Carbon-r32-r33-GTR-skyline-RB26-RB25-rb25det-rb26dett-Clutch/162829152801?hash=item25e95fb221:g:NBEAAOSwrhhaSOIC Nismo Ebay Link https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/152851207123

Selling 2 Nice Clutches suit R32 and R33 GTS-T / GTR 5 speed. Push Type. Nismo Coppermix single high power spec brand new in Box $1200 OBO (Starting at $400 no reserve on ebay) Great street driving clutch ATS Carbon twin Spec I suit high power car $1600 OBO (Starting at $400 no reserve on ebay). Driven once after being installed right from box then changed direction with engine choice The listings are on ebay if you want to search and just make a bid there or you can buy direct from me. Location : Perth Contact : 0423 919 037

Cars still not ready maybe in 2 weeks.

Interesting thanks for the ideas guys. Yes I would put like a big 3" round or 4" round inlet on my custom made airbox just always wondered what the upper limits of the R33 GTR Air filter element were or XR6T one i guess it might be the go guys. iruvyouskyrine How was the intake noise like with your ARC Box? Yes contemplating whether to custom made something or just modify a RB25DET ARC Box.

Airbox for big single turbo (R33) Hi Guys. I am going a big single turbo on my R33 GTR but I want to keep induction noise down. Does anybody know of any aftermarket airboxes for the R33 (bar the ARC one) that can be made to work with a big single, perhaps even if somebody has made something from carbon. The closest thing I can find that can probably be adapted to work is a R33 GTS-T ARC One, but I don't know how well they flow and never seen anybody running a big single turbo with it. I was thinking of getting my fabricator to make one from scratch that has a big 3 or 4" hole near the headlight area but don't know fo any Panel filter that will flow for about 500rwhp setup I was thinking getting one fabricated to suit FG XR6T panel filter but apparently their stock intakes are only good for around 400hp Was also considering getting something fabricated to use R33 GTR size panel filter, but again unsure how it can flow around 500hp Failing to find a panel filter capable of the job I was also thinking a big pod hidden inside a custom made airbox I appreciate any suggestions perhaps if something low production exists out there. I'm not to keen on the CAI sheet metal enclosures. Cheers.

You'll probably have to stretch that budget a long way for a good midnight purple one.

When putting the plenum back on you may find it difficult to clear the two air delivery hard pipes that go between the gap between runners 5 and 6 of the plenum, hold the manifold in this angle to clear them then gently manoeuvre it back to the correct location. Another hard part can be putting the intercooler rubber pipe back onto the manifold, you want to loosen both sides and use all your strength to first get the BOTTOM RIGHT section on, even if it's a little bit of it, do whatever you can to maintain pressure on the hose as the bottom right part of it needs to remain over the plenum lip, holding this in place, use a phillips screw driver and gently walk the rubber over the lip from the bottom working your way either clockwise or counter clockwise whichever you find works the best.

An update on this to add some tips and tricks to help 1st timers out more. I cannot edit the thread. On Step 11, when chosing whether to keep the hardpipes attached to the manifold, or to keep them attached to the rest of the hosing assembly on engine before manifold comes out. I would probably chose Option B, as otherwise if you go Option A, getting that gasket and bolts to hold that hardpipe to the ISCV is very hard. I also reccomend putting some sort of protective paper, electrical tape around the brake pipes as you are very likely to scratch these up while working around this area, when the manifold comes out. Removing some of the rear lower nuts can be quite difficult without losing them, as there is about 1 or 2 where you cannot get your hand in all the way to remove the nut and the washers. Here you can get some magnets and tape them onto something and extract them that way. Also using very large long nose pliers, you can remove the washers using the gaps in the inlet manifold runners from the top

Hi Guys. Just wondering if anybody has ran a Turbotech boost tee on a Rb26dett. I'm thinking because of the way the boost control on the rb26dett is plumbed, You would have to block the boost feed to the existing solenoid off then install the aftermarket boost tee on the hose that comes directly off the manifold? Has anybody done this and how did it work out? Cheers.

T-REVZ i had read your useless comment a few pages back and that's crap. I like people to enjoy their cars get out and do something car related you got a problem come see me in person wonder if you've got the guts to say it to me.

HI everybody was good to meet up last week we appear to have a good local Skyline and GTR group going on here. Thank you Elle for organizing. SAUWA forum is here for us, and for us only, and we use it like true car enthusiasts of which is rare in these times. I encourage anybody to make more events because effort of 1 sometimes never can make it to the full potentia My GTR still is in works, I know a few guys with GTR's who are near completion who will join the group. In future times we will do a full cruise, we will do a Skyline one, and then a GTR exclusive one. So please get more people to join our local forum.

That's one classy way to be arrested.

Next time we'll ensure to give more notice it was only organized in the WA Wasteland chit/chat section. Stay tuned for the next one guys. Thanks for organizing Elle and Friends I also encourage others to organize events too as team contribution is what keeps this small community afloat

Meet-up and Food Tonight. Hi Guys. Elle is organising a meet up tonight, I am posting the details. EVENT - Meet up and Food and Drinks at NENE Chicken. WHERE - We are meeting at the Target underground Carpark in VICTORIA PARK. WHEN - Meet at 7PM. Bring your Skyline or GTR down for a night of good food, good company. Here is a picture to whet your appetite

Guide : RB26 Inlet manifold removal Hi. So after finding not too many detailed guides on removing the inlet manifold, some with missing pictures, I decided to have a go at it myself my way and do a guide as I went. This is not an easy job, however it is not impossible. Tools you will need will be various 3 inch, 6 inch 3/8" and 1/4" extension bars, Swivel and Telescopic ratchet, 10mm, 12mm socket. Stubby 10mm and 12mm spanners and stubby ratchet, and Uni-jointed 12mm socket, also long nose pliers of various sizes and angles. Screwdrivers flathead and phillips various. 1. Remove Igniter, Boost Solenoid, Washer Bottle, Fusebox Cover 2. Remove 2 x Fuel hoses, feed/return that are at the underside of the manifold, one goes to a regulator under the manifold, these will leak so you will need some sort of rubber caps to put over them to stop the leakage 3. Unbolt the fuel filter and swing it out of the way. 4. There will be 3 bolts holding the fuel pressure damper and hard-pipes (Pic in Step 2) on the underside of the inlet manifold. You can now remove the 2 little smal hoses that link these to the fuel rail. These are often on very tight and may need to be cut and replaced. You can now remove these hardpipes from under the manifold. Picture below of how the piece looks 5. There will be a large wiring corrugated conduit near the area of these fuel hardpipes that were removed. This is held on by a large plastic holder. Use a flathead screwdriver to unclip the conduit from this holder and lower the conduit. There will also be a cable tie holding a wiring conduit to a bunch of hoses and other things, this cable tie can be unclipped without cutting it 6. The conduit clip in step 5 is attached to a metal holder which is bolted to the inlet manifold. Feel around to see where the bolt is as it's quite difficult to get an idea of it's position, you will feel a "hook" like metal piece here too. Both this hook and the bracket for the conduit clip is held on by the same bolt. As you remove it, note it's orientation so you can put them back in the same way. Picture below shows the orientation, 7. Drain oil and remove oil filter 8. Now it's time to begin unbolting the ISCV from the manifold, this is a big aluminium block bolted to the underside of the manifold. The block is held directly onto the manifold by Three bolts facing upwards, two of which are seen in the photo Below, the third one is at the other side, you will have to feel for it. Remove the bolts shown in the picture, aswell as the hidden bolt not shown in the picture. You will also now be able to remove the clindrical shaped solenoid below the ISCV held on by the bottom 2 bolts shown in picture, it's held on by a gasket that needs to be replaced later, and also has an electrical connector Also remove the cable tie shown in picture below 9. At the rearmost part of the underside of the inlet manifold closer to the firewall there is 2 large hoses that slide onto ports on the manifold, remove the clamps for these using long-nose pliers or whatever method you can and slip the hoses off. There is also a brown plug, unplug it. 10. At the back of the inlet manifold, at the top there will be 2 large rubber hoses connected to hardpipes, remove these rubber hoses from the hardpipes 11. The hardpipes in above photo lead down under the manifold, to a metal coupler that holds them together and to the inlet manifold. You can see this coupler if you peer down the gap between the manifold runners. These hardpipes need to be unbolted either from the inlet manifold, or from the other bracket that holds them to the rest of the hosing assembly to allow the manifold to come out either with this entire pipe together, or without it. Option A - Remove inlet manifold with hardpipes attached. Remove bolt highlighted in yellow. This option is preferred if you can get to this bolt. Option B - Remove inlet manifold without hardpipes attached. Remove bolt that normally will be found in hole circled in red. If you chose this option this bolt will be a very difficult one to get to, requires stubby 1/4" ratchet and socket. You will also need to unbolt these hardpipes from the ISCV via flange held to ISCV by 2 bolts, there is a gasket here too (Highlighted Green) 12. Remove fuel rail and injectors 13. Remove throttle level assembly 14. Remove the large pressure hose from the front of the inlet manifold, loosen both clamps on it to allow the maximum movement. This one is very stubborn and prying to with a screwdriver aswell as spraying WD40 deep inside helps make it loose. You need to pull from the bottom right section of the hose, and pull upward and slightly diagonally. 15. Remove inlet manifold nuts. Here you risk losings washers. There is spring and flat washers. This is most likely to happen for the underside nuts. Here you can use a small magnet attached to a screwdriver, then contact the screwdriver to the stud just enough to pull the washers to your screwdriver/magnet combo. 16. Remove the vacuum hose hose and bracket that goes to the brake master assembly, this will give more clearance for the inlet manifold to slide out. 17. You can now slide the inlet manifold out.