CowsWithGuns

Thanks. I've had some time to research and clarify my thoughts. 300+ rwkw is already incredible relative to what I had, so I'm going to put it together and and just stay modest with the power. If I really want to go beyond say 350 or get heinous redlines, I'll pull it out when the time comes and upgrade. This is only my first build too, I think I shouldn't overthink part selection lest I make some rookie mistake that causes failure anyway... If my bolts eat shit, I'll be sure to report back to the community

I'm in a similar situation. I've already assembled the bottom end of my 25Neo and next is installing the head. My engine shop said I'm good to reuse the factory rods and bolts (RB26 rods and matching bolts as it is a NEO bottom end, with forged pistons) for this power goal and application (street). I've also been told that there's not much point getting ARP rod bolts if I'm reusing stock rods. This has reinspired the fear of god in me. GTSBoy would it be totally moronic to not pull it apart and bring the rods to a shop to get reworked for ARP bolts? I ask this suspecting you will say yes, but I still want to hear it 😁

Hey mate, what path did you end up taking here and how did it go? I'm in a similar position.

Yeah in the same boat. Just pulled my engine and not liking the look of these hoses. Problem is I have a neo and non ebay kits appear non existent

Hey mate just watched all your vids. I spent hours looking for a decent writeup and this beat all my expectations. I'm slowly making preparations to do exactly the same thing, thanks for the inspiration and help!

I've heard great things and have had a great experience at NA Autosport in the Slacks Creek area with my r34

Between your explanation and this diagram I just found, I'm ready to hose it up. Cheers mate. Edit: I found my problem. That T junction with the nipple has been replaced with a plain T junction from bunnings, no nipple. Someones done some strange stuff to this car...

Thanks GTSBoy, really appreciated. I definitely want to fix this, my car stays at high idle for an absurdly long time. I know where the TB coolant line and the manifold gallery nipple is, but I still can't figure out where the third line should end from your explanation. Would you be able to post a picture of your setup please?

Hey all. I've slowly been learning my way around my car and was always suspicious of the coolant piping coming from my AAC - it just looked wrong. And, it turns out it is - this picture is of my current setup. Notice the 3rd line has been blocked off. My questions are as follows: 1) Why would someone do this? 2) Where is the first line meant to go exactly? I deduced from other threads/images that the middle line goes to the throttle body (currently my first line does) and the 3rd line goes to the manifold (currently my second line does), but I can't figure out where that 1st line is meant to go to. If there isn't any obvious reason for this set up I would like to reroute the lines to their usual spot. Probably unrelated, but I stall after revving and have idle issues, and I know this coolant affects an air flow valve hence my interest.

Hi, Looking to buy a second hand turbo back for my R34 GTT Sedan. Cheers.

Hey team. Been busy inspecting and learning - I've sorted out all the parts I need replacing, except for the rear hicas bullshit. Turns out my car already has a lockout bar installed, but the rear left wheel still rocks side to side. In the prepurchase inspection I was told it likely has a bad wheel bearing (I was buying interstate) - the wheel bearing is fine (no up-down movement at all). Nevertheless, on both rear sides the outer hicas tie rod ends are clearly f**ked, and that's $200, and I have my doubts about the health of the inner tie rod ends - another $200 for parts alone. Am I missing some solution here? I discovered the difference between a lockout and eliminator. So I just need to find an eliminator, should be easy.

Woah you just saved me a lot of heartache. Time to go looking for a second hand clutch. Thanks bro

Thank you very much gtsboy and adm. This helps a lot. As a followup question, I also need a new fan clutch. The Nissan one here is nearly $500, but I found aftermarkets that supposedly fit for $200 or less. In this case (and for all future cases) what's the best way to approach confirming if a part will fit? I no longer trust the 'it fits' given by SCA and sparesbox etc. http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/cooling-viscous-coupling-suit-nissan-skyline-gts25-gts25-25gt-25gt-25gt-stagea-wc34-p-1247.html

Hi guys, I bought my first Skyline (1998 R34 GTT, 220km) last week and am in the process of sorting all the issues with it. The mechanic identified issues with 'left rear inner rack end' and 'right front rack end'. I've been trying to find the right part to buy for the last 1-2 hours now and I'm confused beyond belief. Sparesbox straight up doesn't identify my car, and supercheap has many rack ends of clearly different specs (ranging from 258 to 291mm in length), and some of them indicate 4 wheel steering, others 2 wheel steering and others don't specify. As far as I understand, my car has HICAS, and I assume the front and rear rack ends are different, but it's still very ambiguous what parts I'm actually looking for. And the issue extends where I don't know what tie rod would complement it. Should I go ahead and get all four rack ends replaced, or just the ones that are clearly bust? Is this a good time to change the tie rods too or should I hold off (I'm on a budget but it's not extremely tight)? Is there a difference between a 'rack end' and an 'inner rack end'? Is there anywhere I can find clear parts lists/specs for my car? It would make things so much easier... I apologise for these noob questions. I've gone to town on the search bar to little avail.