MrStabby

I found another post that mentioned 'protex 210J0159' as the rebuild kit, so i've sent a message to ABS to see if that means anything to them. I just dont wont to open it up to find the bore is no good then not be able to drive at all....but given no other options i guess i can be convinced to give it a go.

The rb25 sticky : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/55845-rb25-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

Who did the highflow? Was the flow test done independently?

Saying Amsoil or any other brand doesn't mean much as they have more than one product.... You should find out which Amsoil you're running then check the specs against the Total oil they are offering.

I have the usual leak from the back, dripping down the booster. RHDjapan want $485, which is probably about what Nissan Aust will want. I tried ABS at Kirrawee and they couldnt find any reference in their PBR etc catalogues. I'd prefer not to do get a rebuild kit - some say the alloy body can need to be sleeved with stainless blah blah blah.. I just want something that will work first go. Nissan Aust want $198 for the rebuild kit. So has anyone got a specific PBR or whatever part number?

Well i'll agree with UWISSH that Nismo twins are well known for being pretty much as easy as stock clutches - but they're not cheap (around $2K?), and being a twin, they'll probably rattle. My point is, if you dont need to support big horsepower or brutal use, you could go with something cheaper.

Great you got it back - just get some security NOW! Supposedly the drop in short term thefts from 2000 to 2010 is due to improved car security. I got Leon from www.securityinmotion.com.au to install the alarm in my car - he did a good job. 0407 106 822. Heard about him from this forum.

Diff drain intervals are typically closer to 100,000km than 10,000kms.... If you use fully synthetic you can triple the factory drain interval.

FWIW - fishtailing occurs when you over-correct in a slide, so you need to get driver training to stop that

"I smashed my clutch foot years ago in a MC accident so I really don't want to have to put in a heavy clutch and spoil the experience." "This car will do the odd motorsport event but manly be babied on the street where I really enjoy the driveability" Those statements suggest to me that the 8000rpm launch use case is not relevant

I'm running a cheap ass nice soft pedal $500 organic single plate with 305kw - no problems....An NPC or Jim Berry organic could no doubt hold more, and we're not even talking about buttons/ceramics yet. So, twin plate are not necessary unless you head well north of 300kw IMO.

As stated the stock injectors and AFMs are ok to about 280kw, so just run 12psi or whatever gets you to 280kw with the -9s. FWIW, -9s are about $400 more a pair than -7s when you include actuator cost. If you want <320kw you may prefer to save the $400, but if you want to push to 330+ the -9 are definitely the way to go - better turbos no doubt. Of course you'll need to re-tune when you change turbos, and also when you change injectors and/or AFMs.

Since you're not getting anything here try posting in Forced Induction Performance

And if you do get crap in there, there's more chance you'll get missfire due to coil to head arcing.

"Laggy" is in the eye for the beholder, so you guys should probably avoid that term. Can we at least agree that 32/33 N1s are laggier than 34 N1s, and therefore if you were looking at new turbos you'd only go for the 32/33s if you had to due to competition rules?

Its not weird - they do fail in that way. If money's tight, you can use silicon or tape to try and repair them http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/119403-how-to-fix-missfire-problem/

R34 N1 are identical to Garrett -7s. Positive pressure at 2000rpm, response is close enough to stock. There not laggy/doughy unless there's something wrong with your car....Here's mine;

+1 I've had the same problem, and after two years it failed. I'm going back to Nissan OEM.

IMO, dont believe the guys that work at autobarn, but also be skepical of what peaple say here. You'll have no problem finding all the info you need to with a Google search. BPR5ES-11: the 11 refers to 1.1mm plug gap, which is stock gap. If you're running stock boost and the coilpacks are in good condition running 1.1 is obviously fine. BCPR6ES: notice that the heat range is now 6 instead of 5? A higher number means the spark plug will run colder Too cold = more chance that it will foul & missfire Too hot = more chance that you'll get pre-ignition and lower plug life Usually the more power you meke the colder the plug you require (as more power = more heat), but the tune is critcally important. The more boost you run the smaller the plug gap needs to be (or the more powerful the ignition system needs to be), as the more dense the fuel/air mix is, the harder it is for the spark to jump the gap.