MrStabby

There's no need to pull the engine out. I've done the plenum on my 32R. Sure, its an absolute bitch of a job, but motor out is harder. If you find yourself getting frustrated, walk away for a while. For the hoses, here's my list. IIRC i missed the fat 90 degree ones that go either side of the IAC. Coolant pipes on Drivers side and rear of motor; 21307-05U02, 14055-05U11, 21307-05U04, 14055-05U01, 14055-05U02 Water/heater: 92410-05U00, 92402-05U00, 92401-05U00 Lower radiator hose: 21503-72L00 I had some photos... i'll see if i can find them, they may help a little. Good luck EDIT: they photos are here: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/gallery/album/15274/4185-plenum/

I just pick them off by and and use needle nose pliers to straighten the fins.

Yeah in that case you could probably get rid of all of them. Just check where they all go in case my memory is off and then block them off.

The hoses on the gearbox are breathers, so largely inconsequential. Notice the bracket on the end has a hole> One of the top gearbox to engine bolts holds it in place when you install the box. The crushed ones in the other pic are IIRC coolant (the bigger one, goes to the turbos) and at least one of the others is the vac/boost signal for the wastegate actuators. Just follow them around and you'll see what they're connected to. These ones are important so replace them.

You want one with 3in flanges but 4in or more matrix. Since the matrix takes up space you want to get a larger matrix cross section than the pipe diameter so flow isnt badly restricted. All cats have smaller flanges than the matrix size.

Ah, that must be where that old saying comes from "dont bend valves with your eyes" Wait... what?

Pretty sure it has been mentioned here that superlight (ONLY superlight) is recommended by Redline for that box. I found it hard to believe at the time, but IIRC the poster had called Redline. Would definitly be worth confirming with them before trying it. Anyway Andrew at that power, stick with the transmax Z.

I find R32 GTR seats tiny across the shoulders - my shoulders are wider then the seat so im ON it rather than IN it.... I ended up getting R34 GTR seats which are way better, and they bolt in. Great support. IMO the only way with seats is to sit in one before you buy. The mount points arent straightfoward in GTRs, so i'd guess fitting a custom seat would require a fair bit of custom work.

Jeebus! Best wishes Paul - hope you're back to good health in no time.

Is the temperature any different with the new fluid? Did you say transmax Z is now green (or was green the colour of the old fluid)? It was red when i used it in my powersteer about 18 months ago. If you're running 350+kw it might be worth using superlight shockproof instead. I have no direct experience tho, just what's bounced around my skull after lots of reading. BeerBaron or TO4GTR etc would know.

The should be a single pipe come from the booster to feed it vacuum, so you should follow that and plug the end. re pedal pressure, its probably similar to what its like when the engine is off.

Sorry no idea about the heat, but you may as well make sure its got the correct fluid as the most basic maintenance. Oddly, the getrags actually require synthetic auto transmission fluid, like castrol transmax Z. IIRC redline superlight shockproof is an alternative. You could open the fill hole and put your finger in to see if its the usual transmission fluid red, but if you havent changed the transmission fluid since you got the car you might as well do it for peace of mind.

Thanks for letting us know. Thats a handy little increase and it confirms what is expected WRT power and spool. If it were me, next step would be to try a decat on the dyno to see if there's any potential for a better result with a bigger (5 inch?) cat.

I've got 550cc seimens in my GTR. Got them about 18 months ago from a US ebay shop (called Performance Injection IIRC) for around $500 new. They're 4 hole and work well. The shop offered them as suitable for RB26 and they were fine - fitted into the standard top mount rail, just needed to use the standard sized o rings rather than the ones that came on the injector. I guess you're getting side feeds so not sure how useful this is for you.

Can you explain why using a "thin" oil is related to his problem? Can you quote a source that states 20W-50? FWIW the R32 GTR workshop manual says 7.5W-30 is the correct grade. Do you realise that a 0W-40 and a 10W-40 are the same viscosity at operating temperature?

Nah - miss is where the fuel doesnt ignite at all, so it is rough running, running on 5 cylinders. Flat spot is just low power, but smooth.

Top photo looks like power steer pump. Dodgy thing is that pipe clamp on the high pressure hose from it. I'm guessing this has been put on to hold a blister down or attempt to plug the leak.... Replace the hoses. Either take them down to an enzed or pirtek and they can make up new ones, or just get spare parts instead. Check all engine oil and PS fluid levels. Pretty sure the PS fluid will be low. PS fluid is red when its new.

Turbo is make or break for the application. Typically people first get an idea of what sort of power they want to make, choose the smallest turbo that comfortably meets that power goal, then build whatever else is required around that. You're doing it wrong Its a grey area but my guess is that you'll want to keep power below 350rwkw with a stock bottom end. Doesnt really matter what turbo or what psi, although the lower the revs the better.

I always assumed that fuel surge would probably damage a motor - with lean outs and power cutting in and out... a quick search turned up these threads below that seem to support that idea. Might be worth doing something about it before the next motor goes in. At the very least it will mean you always have power in corners. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/188138-fuel-surge/page__p__3394937 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/316605-help-please-no-1-cylinder-low-compression-and-turbo-failure/page__view__findpost__p__5181420

All non-viscous type harmonic balancers are tuned to the crankshaft, so you should either; - use one that's made for the crank, so AFAIK only RB30 ones are suitable (unless you can confirm that other rb cranks have the same harmonics as the 30) - use a viscous one The non-viscous ones are the typical inner hub -> rubber ring -> outer ring style like OEM ones.

So - The tuner reckons it was running fine during the road test (that is, no pinging OR flat spots OR missing) and you agree there was no flat spot or missing. Since then its developed a flat spot and a miss - did those things happen at the same time? What has changed since the tune? How many kms has it been?

And you can make 360kw with a 3in exhaust, but as you've said before just because you can do it doesn't mean its a good solution. Does the same logic not apply to airboxes?

On the previous page it was stated that Z32s can read 370kw, so; - for less than 300kw use the standard afms - for 300-370kw, a single Z32 - for 370+kw, use two Z32s Of course that's if you're only considering metering capability. You then need to look at plumbing and cost to come up with an answer.

Obvious troll is obvious. "rough" and "conservative" don't mean the same thing...

If; - the assumption that RB26 nismos have the same response to Z32s, and - the graph is correct Then no, it wont. However, I doubt that RB26 nismos will respond the same as Z32s since the the Z32s are larger in diameter - it doesnt matter that they have the same guts (hotwire and electrics), the air speed will be a lot less due to the diameter. I'm just guessing of course. FWIW http://paulr33.com/ has the rates as; Single Z32 AFM 350rwkw Twin RB26 AFMs 300rwkw Twin Z32 AFMs 511rwkw NFI why 2 x 300 = 511.....