MrStabby

I guess you could measure the distance between then pistons when they're fully seated and compare between the two sets of calipers. If the distance is the same, then the rotor width should be the same. Only complicating factor is pad width, so check that as well. For some calipers you can order different width pads.

What boost are you running? Are the replacement injectors new or used? Black smoke = rich mixture, which you'd expect on a stock ECU, especially if you've raised the boost.

Batteries provide a huge amount of capacitance, so I cant see any obvious problem. What am i missing?

I'm always used to seeing a copper one, so based on that - yes!

You can get springs "reset" to change their length - i got Heasmans in Sydney to raise my car (which happened to be running Teins, but it can be done on anything) using this method. Otherwise give Fulcrum a call as they're the Tein resellers in Australia.

http://scienceblog.com/44560/laser-sparks-revolution-in-internal-combustion-engines/

I did the exactly same - camera got me at 60. Its retarded having main roads like Cleveland Street only 50kph.

+1. Ratchet ring spanners and magnet on a stick FTW on this job.

The second turbo will spin, but wont make any boost as the air blows back through the compressor of the dead turbo.... So since OP is getting boost, its not an exploded turbine.

Lulz - i call it crank angle sensor half them time, then give myself a slap.

He probably means the cam angle sensor - its the round thing with 3 bolts holding it on at the front, just to the right of the RB25 logo on the cam sprocket cover. You need a timing light to check it. Have you located the misfiring cylinder? Have you moved the coilpack then spark plug to see if the missfire follows?

As a few ppl have said - change the plugs. Its simple and cheap, so its the most sensible next step. Post up photos of the plug tips so we can have a look.

Can you give a quick overview of your specs? You mentioned 3lt but what head/manifolds/turbo/power etc. How much did the doctoring cost?

DS3000s are really abrasive cold, so even though they bite well, they destroy rotors when used for street. EBC yellows dont bite well cold but they dont eat rotors either. I dont know how they compare back to back for track work, because i've only ever used the golds with my G4 330s (and was happy with them - only about $320 for set plus a little grinder work to make them sit deeper in the caliper so they didnt overhang the rotor).

Try posting in Motorsport. FWIW i have Riskings old Oran Park setup - 8.2fr 6.4rr, but his car is a 32 with a stripped interior...

+1 AND P platers cant drive modified cars. Removing a turbo IS a modification!

Forget about the N1 oil pump. Its just not worth doing unless you're rebuilding the motor and making the other mods that are required to complement it. On its own it will be more dangerous than the standard pump. Get new actuators if you get -9s. -7s come with new actuators and all up will be about $400 cheaper than -9s, but wont make the same max power as the -9s. IIRC the Vipec PCB fits in the factory ECU case, so is stealthy that way and you could keep the AFMs and wiring - you dont HAVE to remove them. Otherwise you could run Nistune, but "BNCR34 Skyline requires BNR32 RB26DETT ECU, O2 sensors and CAS wiring modifications".

If you can, take it to a local dyno and get them to give it a run. Also get a copy of the boost plot - we should be able to tell from that if its got standard turbos or not.

Have you read the ebay feedback?

I bought new seimens top feed 550s through clean-injection (in the US) on ebay.com.au. No problems.

Write everything that's happened into detailed notes with date and time. Take photos of the engine bay. Call Consumer Affairs Victoria on Monday - they will tell you how to proceed. If you need a car, hire one and keep the receipts.

The reason I do it is that I cant see the point in repeating the same advice over and over again. Yeah but at least we then know that you've bothered to do your homework, and been through the obvious/usual problems. Typically the question *will* be answered. Have you considered the possibility that you might not be asking the question well? Easier for who? Give a man a fish and he eats for a day, teach a man to fish and he eats for a lifetime. I disagree. Very little is stickied. Have another look. You cant be bothered to do the simplest thing to help yourself? I'm not going to give you a fish, but here's how you can learn to fish http://www.catb.org/~esr/faqs/smart-questions.html

This has been answered many times - try searching for it.

Two have now fallen off, and generally i've found them to be prone to popping open. What could i use instead that would be a bit more reliable?

If its right at the top near the rail then yeah, probably o-rings. If you're not sure, just change them anyway because they're cheap and its an easy job. Search the DIY - i did a write up. Interestingly, i had to remove my rail recently and just pulling it out and reinstalling it was enough to kill 2 orings FFFUUUUU.... Probably should have pulled all the injectors out of the rail and re-lubed them.