MrStabby

Sell cams, buy cam gears and save the difference. Or if the cash is burning a hole in your pocket post details of your setup and we'll suggest something much more useful to spend it on.

Correct. The metal core is not connected to either of the solenoids inside (unless its stuffed), so it wont be carrying any current, so it doesnt matter if its got paint on it or not. A thin layer of paint wouldnt be effective against high tension anyway. EDIT: actually if the core was grounded against the mounting braket then it might well be an attractive place for the current to go. Whatever - just insulate the best you can where its arcing.

I've just done the full bleed in correct order, ie 1. Left rear brake 2. Right rear brake 3. Left front brake 4. Right front brake 5. Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car) 6. Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall) And its not bad. Not perfect so i'll run through the whole procedure once again. Felt good to be back in the pilot seat after 3 weeks Kiwi - I'm not using RBF600 any more. I'm trying the Nulon stuff since its a third the price, available anywhere, and not too far off the temperature rating (280 vs 310 IIRC). Need to do a track day to see how well it holds up tho.

Yep, you're right it would be rich, but tune may be hiding it, and if that's the case you'll need a retune after..

Teh Lulz. And yes there's no way to measure a boost leak because the all connected bits of pipework will have close enough to the same pressure (assuming there's no big restriction in there). You would have to measure air flow either side of the leak.

If you want people to give you the "what's that bad smell" face, do one of the following; - Take the RB out of a Skyline - Take the JZ out of a Supra - Take the Rotor out of an RX7

The brand new ABS itself is now clear of air, but the pedal is straight to the floor. I was assuming that there would only be very little air in the lines from the ABS to the brakes - after all the brake fluid is not going to defy gravity right? The pedal is not even spongy. No obvious leaks so i guess i'll do the calipers, which AFAIK means i'll have push the air bubbles all the way from the ABS to the calipers first, so a crapload of pedal pumps. So, - is there something i'm missing, or is bleeding the calipers the only way forward? - roughly how many pedal pumps per caliper to clear the line? FWIW before the ABS work i put in a second hand master cylinder as it was leaking badly out the back. The replacement doesnt appear to be leaking at all.

You've done pressure before and after cooler, how about pressure before compressor vs atmospheric? If there is a restriction before the compressor, it will have to work harder (and therefore add more heat) than it would if it was drawing from atmospheric pressure. Also, how about measuring temperature before and after the cooler to test your idea?

You HAVE to do the other oiling mods like block restrictor etc or I *think* the N1 will make the situation WORSE! My reasoning? because the biggest risk is running out of oil at the oil pump pickup, and if you put a higher volume oil pump in, and make no other changes, you are more likely to empty the sump. So the options are; 1. Overfill the sump (obviously a no brainer!) 2. More oil drains (what does that involve? Block modifications?) 3. Bigger sump/baffles (engine out?) 4. New N1 or similar pump (engine out?) 5. (another theory/guess of mine) dont run oil thats too think, as it will take longer to drain back to the sump I have no direct experience, just trying to get some clarity on the options. Can someone confirm the work required for options 2/3/4? EDIT: Doh forgot the restritors in my list - is that head off only?

Japs have very smooth tracks and IIRC they use spring rate, instead of sway bars, to control body roll. Try those spring rates out and let us know what you think

Yeah rate is too high unless maybe you are on VERY smooth tracks and using slicks. GTRs are over 1500kgs and 8/6 is a good starting point for track. If you're 50/50, and the suspension design is similar to R32/33/34s, i'd say 7/7 should be a reasonable start.

Run diagnostics via CONSULT, if that doesnt reveal anything get a dyno run to check AFRs. Sounds like its missing - could be AFMs/coilpacks. CONSULT/Dyno as above. Oil smell could be gearbox shifter boots dead. Cat is probably stuffed. Also your car could be running rich. Again, CONSULT/Dyno. I *think* running rich for a long time will eventually kill a cat. If you havent replaced the fluid yet, do that. Check that the alternator is charging properly, should be 14-14.8 volts IIRC. Usually if the voltage is low enough to affect the attessa ECUs you'll know about it because you cant start he car.... maybe check the voltage at the attessa ECU (under the parcel shelf). Or is it the HICAS ECU that causes this.... cant remember. Search for it. Powerfc would only be a bandaid over something that's not working properly, so bad solution IMO. Fix what's broken. It sounds like your mechanic has lower standards than you do, so you need to find someone better.

Maybe contact RIPSNZ and see what they use since they have a lot of experience with high HP RB2630s http://www.ripsltd.com/index2.html. Their email is; [email protected]

Mobile phone's use licensed radio frequency spectrum to transmit audio information (sound) encoded into data, and car alarm keyfobs use unlicensed RF spectrum to transmit lock and unlock codes. So, - they use different RF frequencies - they dont understand each other's data So - it sounds like bollocks to me, but i'm not an expert. Of course, people without security engineering backgrounds regularly design security systems. These systems are easily cracked because the designers assume that just because they can design a system that they themselves cannot break that it is therefore secure. WEP encryption from Wifi networks is an example of this.

If your one is broken it *may* be repairable. There was a thread on here about it, but i cant remember which forum. I guess Drivetrain and Transmission is the obvious starting point.

That sounds like this (from the Castrol AU FAQ) - Its to do with putting new fluid (any new fluid) in a transmission that's running very old fluid, not about synthetic with non-synthetic. "How to change the ATF? I have heard that there are occasions when it is not recommended to change the ATF, but what are these? It is not recommended to change the ATF in cars where no change has been performed for a considerable time (generally regarded as 50, 000Km from new, or 40, 000Km for K-cars), or where the maintenance history of the vehicle is unclear. Prolonged usage without an ATF change leads to a build-up of particles on the filter, resulting from wear of the gear and clutch parts, and of sludge, which accumulates as the oil deteriorates. An ATF change at this stage can cause these particles and impurities to circulate and jam into the shift valves or clog up oil ducts, creating more trouble. Furthermore, ATF changes are not recommended in cases of severe conditions of use such as towing or driving on punishing roads, or where there is an apparent problem with the Automatic Transmission operation. Not changing the ATF can cause an increase in 'shift-shock' and affect system line. It is generally recommended that ATF changes are performed at regular intervals of 20, 000Km or 2 years, whichever is first, although manufacturers recommendations should be observed. It is apparent that ATF has many important functions and must provide an extremely high level of performance. Recently the demands on ATF performance have been further increased with the rising application of Lockup Clutches in the drive for improved fuel efficiency. "

Jebuz! Is that on 98? Do the HKS turbos make more power than the -5s? I thought 400awkw was the limit of 2530/-5s on pump.

Your mechanic doesnt know what he's talking about. Give Castrol a call and ask them about mixing the fluids

That sounds like your tuner doesnt know how to tune d-jetro properly, so if you stay with that tuner, use afms.

1 x z32 afm = 370kw at the flywheel of measurable airflow. (Or so i'm told). Are you running one or two?

Since you have understandable issues with what users say publicly about workshops, could you setup a voting system where users can simply vote like or dislike for a particular shop? Users would not be able to make a comment, but their vote would be shown so other users could then PM them to ask for specifics. I see Trader rating is coming

It will feel more "neutral", it wont try to steer itself straight. I realise i'm not describing it well.... and i've only felt it in a GTST as my GTR had a lock kit when I bought it. In the GTST it made it very easy to get the car straight during a powerslide.

If you want grip, its about matching spring rate to the quality of road surface. If the road is rough, you will be faster on softer springs. If your roads are as good as a typical AU track, 8/6 will be about right. If they are worse than that, you will be faster on softer springs. Stiffer springs does not necessarily mean faster, just like lower doesn't necessarily mean faster.

The problem with lowering is that it changes the suspension geometry. Some of those changes can be addressed by adjustable bushes or arms, other you just have to live with. Depending on what your ride height is at now, 2 inches may be too far. Usually you want the wheel centerline to top of guard measurement to be 350mm front 340mm rear at a minimum, if you still want it to handle reasonably well. Re HICAS, AFAIK ride height is not the issue. Also, just calling it shit is stupid. It depends on how you're using the car, and what you like.