MrStabby

I had a lot of problems with brakes at the track - and made a number of changes, some of which werent required in hindsight..... I dont think there was any problem with the UAS adapters (though there is a fair bit of grinding to make them fit). I still have them in a box somewhere.... The DBA4000s i got cracked tho, so I would you avoid them if they still have that retarded, almost radial, slot design. I'm running the D2/G4 330mm kit now. Its definitely better, but more expensive. What are you running now and what problems do you have? Are you up for rotors now?

So pull has a pin to pivot on, instead of the slightly unreliable pivot ball. Of course they could have still used a pin joint with a push....

You can space the caliper out with an adapter that makes the sumitomos work with the gtr 324mm rotors - i had the UAS one for a while. The caliper seems to work fine despite the 324mm rotor being 2mm thinner if that's what you're worried about.

I think most 32 GTRs are push (my 1990 is) pull came in later 32R's (93 as a guess?). I assume since over the years Nissan has moved to pull, that its superior in some way...

The booster could be fine. They seem to be a lot more reliable than masters. If its not leaking air it should be ok. I believe that masters should be rebuilt every 10years (or some similar interval).

I got my parts straight from Nissan; "bushing gear" (spigot) 32202-B950A $15 "seal oil crankshaft rear" 12279-58S00AU" $44 "seal oil front cover: 32114-Y4000AU" $6 I also heard from an apprentice mechanic that he had pulled a number of the roller spigots from RBs failed in pieces, so i'm going with a bush. IIRC unique autos used to sell the roller ones - www.nismo.com.au

Check the GT-RS to -5 comparison on the top graph, some of the comments are aimed at that and others at the fuel change, tho the comments havent been clear on which they're referring to.

Cant remember how i did it last time. The bump in the gearbox that accommodates the starter fouls on the tunnel once the box is moved about two inches back, but the input shaft is not free of the clutch yet. IIRC i have to rotate the box to get it to clear - do i rotate the box so that the bump is above the box or below it? Or is there something else i've forgotten on how to get it out?

http://www.nistune.com/

Unfortunately i've been crook, but i couldnt keep away from the thing and tried drilling it out. The grade 9 bolts just made by bits blunt... I have a die grinder now so if there's enough room to get it on the nut i'll do what you say - makes sense that taking out one side is all that's needed. Otherwise i'll take the rest of the bolt head off, even though that will be a lot more grinding, there will be room. Cheers.

Sorry for the hijack, but does that mean that anything over 22psi will just add heat and therefore there's never any reason to run more than 22? Also, is there diminishing returns just before 22, so while 18->20 might give you a decent increase, 20->22 will give you much less? Im running 17psi on -7s, and wondering how much further its worth pushing them.

The gaskets i pulled out of my gtr were much better looking than that and a lot older... Maybe a polite "please explain" to the mechanic, and if they get all defensive, dont go back. Are you sure there was no miscommunication about which gaskets were to be replaced? Maybe they did the turbo to dump one?

What leads you to believe there will be a loss of midrange power? This isnt a shitstorm. Relax bro. Also, you could; 1. get the 2.5in exhaust 2. get dyno run with it on, then another with it dropped so see if there is any power difference 3. post the result for the good of the community

R34 GTR push clutch does not compute.... pull came in on late model R32s.... Also - the only OS twin i've driven was a complete light switch from anything but cold. Sucked badly in traffic...

An option is the series 3 R33 box (at the same cost last time i looked), and swapping the bellhousing on your existing box. That way you get the updated series 3 internals (IIRC extra synchros on 3rd and 4th, and a few other things).

Pip them in max power yes, spool (wastegate shut) no. And a well thought out split would be best for both. I have xforce splits and the merge is very poorly done. Even with the short runners, i reckon a good merge (right at the front pipe flange) would equal the power of a bellmouth, with better spool.

You've misunderstood me - the guy saying "its not a Nur anymore" and "put a R32 GTR motor in" is the jerk - not you!

1 - I havent got any oxy or welding stuff, so this and GTRsean's ideas are plan B 2 - No I didnt, but mentioning the punch gives me the idea to try drilling it out If there's room. FWIW there's no room for a pipe spanner 3 - When i feel like doing that I pack it in the day... Don Dada's idea of snapping it with da powa has a certain charm... tnx

To the split dump haters - umadbro?

Yeah but nistune dont do a board for r33. You can use an R32 ECU (which means you'll need something to control VCT) or preferably a z32 ECU which will do VCT control. You then dump an r33 image and tune on it.

That guy sounds like a bit of a jerk. Yes, get an N1 block and use as many of the original parts as possible. If you do sell, state the history around the motor. The only important opinion then is how the prospective buyer sees it.

Lulz....dont tempt me. Thanks everyone for the ideas.

Re: chisel - is the idea to get the chisel tip to grip on the side of the bolt head even tho its on an angle? I guess you need to chisel straight down first to make a gouge for the tip to sit in to give it something to grip with? Yeah pre-fcuked - if there was a washer under to bolt head, I would have probably been able to get a ring spanner on that side. Do you know if there's supposed to be a washer there? or if it matters? I'll probably try putting one in to see if it gives enough room.

All four bolts were over torqued, and there isnt enough room to get a ring spanner or socket on either side. I've managed to get three of the four out with open enders (all are mangled and will need replacing) but the last one got too rounded. Since there's fark all room, i'm not sure how to tackle it. Maybe buy a dremel and try to cut the head off? or file two sides down until I can get an 11mm open ended on? Suggestions?

IIRC People here tend to start to have trouble with 3rd gear from about 500hp. Checkout the Drivetrain section.