MrStabby

Getting just a stiffer front sway bar will promote more understeer, because it will work the front tyres harder when they're already past their limit. You need to make the rear tyres resist more of the cornering force with a stiffer rear bar. Sways bars are often the best bang for your buck suspension mod, so IMO you should get adjustables for both front and rear, and play with the balance. If you're really tight, just get the rear bar. I got the whitelines for my GTR, the front is on full soft and the rear full hard, to get as much understeer out as possible. This compliments the attessa tweaker which pushes more power to the front (so more tendency for understeer).

In, unless work gets in the way. Anyone know how long it's going to take from CBD given it will be peak hour?

BB have you confirmed this can really be done? It was rumored for a while, but all the seals are non-circular cross-section so generic seals wont do. I tried and failed with the EDPM o ring list that was posted on this forum....haven't heard anyone confirm they succeeded. If the proper seals could be found it should be possible but no-one seems to have found them.

rhdjapan sell new ones for ~$1500.

FYI, here's stock vs -7 boost response (very few data points.....its rough) same engine and probably same cam timing.

I get no attention at all, foreveralone.jpg. And i don't even look like a serial killer any more. Come at me bogans! Tailgaters get the 10 below the speed limit treatment, and they go past pretty soon after that. "Too many assholes, too few bullets"... Rollins.

It a region on the airflow vs rpm maps in the ECU where the mixtures are very rich and the timing very low. The ECU doesn't expect the engine to ever get to those cells in normal operation, and that implies that there is some kind of fault so extremely conservative fuel/timing is used to protect the motor. Bumping up the boost increases airflow and pushes the ECU into the R+R region of the maps.

To me, you seem a bit closed minded, and not really willing to give the ideas in this thread full consideration. IMO you should re-assess the beliefs you hold now. Let's just say "he may be very good". You mean opening on full boost But then, why are you talking about a turbo upgrade if you have an actuator problem? At the moment you have a boost control issue, that is probably due to weak actuators, but you have yet to verify that. It certainly sounds good. But for sake of a little work why not verify that? You need to slow down and troubleshoot this in a methodical manner. And to do that, you'll need to relax first Good luck

Relax bro. First important point is that 500rwhp has been done many times on 2530's, so lets suppose there is a non-turbo related problem with your setup. If you change to a high mount now, you will not address whatever that problem is. Sensible steps would be; try another tuner (since your tuner has stated that the 2530's wont do 500), drop the exhaust (don't assume - verify). Re: fuel flow, just keep an eye on injector duty, if its gets too high that means you have a fuel flow issue, as they are large enough for the 2530s.

From the shop manual; Bleeding Order Left rear brake Right rear brake Left front brake Right front brake Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car) Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall) Bleeding Method (tho most like to close the bleeder before letting the pedal up, or use a one man bleeder kit) open bleeder fully press brake pedal, allow pedal to return, wait 3 seconds repeat press/return/wait sequence twice more close bleeder repeat for each corner and ABS nipples Also - how does the area of the pistons of the new brakes compare to the old ones? More piston area = mushier feel, but more force on the pad.

That gets my vote.

+1. I reckon if your cars been engineered you'd only get defected if you fail the dickhead test.

Aren't we supposed to be making jokes along the lines of "oh, well the cocaine market must have dried up"

+1, you've totally jinxed yourself now brah.

Its next to the fuse box, but you need a cable and software to read it (or a mate with cable + software . Search here if you want more details.

To get the flywheel off you need to get the plates out, so remove all the gearbox side small bolts, and the pressure place, clutch and intermediate plates will all be able to be lifted out. You can then access the flywheel bolts. On the giken i had, the mutli-plate "cage" was integrated with the flywheel. It sounds like yours is bolted on. I guess you'd only remove it to get the flywheel machined. Well that's my guesses based on what you've said. A picture would help.

You know that handling, grip, ride will all be horrible at that height right? Since you mentioned its a bit bouncy i'm thinking you might care about ride quality. IMO you would only lower that far for aesthetic reasons on a dedicated show car.

Easiest way to do that is via the CONSULT port.

+1 and thank you. Many faceplams in this thread. The extra air that the turbo adds doesn't just go along for the ride. It is used to burn the extra fuel that the ECU has added, creating more cylinder pressure. That's why you go faster!

So... do ringlands break due to excess force exerted by the ring (either from pinging or just tons of power & boost) ? OP do you know what power the pistons are specified for? Will you contact the manufacturer for comment on the failure?

It is possible, but that doesn't make them N1s. I believe rebuild cartridges are much more expensive for 34's as they use ball bearings, and since N1s are only 2200 nobody bothers since it works out about the same or close enough, especially once you take into account the installation cost. Well that's my recollection of what I was thinking before i bought -7s.

Check for -5 results in the rb26 turbo sticky (and ignore the very high and low figures). From what i've seen there, around 360 would be about right for 20psi.

A pre-turbine exhaust leak will cause lag. If the wastegate has fouled on the dump and being held open by it that will cause a lot of lag. Re: wastegate, try disconnecting the actuator rod and turn the flapper arm with your hand. If you aren't sure of the position the arm should be at fully closed, you might need to take a photo and post it here for someone to take a look.

Hmmm, you say "nothing is wrong" but you're clearly down on power for where you should be at that boost. Can you explain how you rationalise that contradiction?

+1 Fix whatever problem the car has first and see how you like it before throwing money at new turbos. You might find that the extra 50kw you get when its running well is more than enough. Got a dyno sheet you can post up? Who tuned it?