MrStabby

A rub with wet and dry wont do?

I was wondering if there was a problem with how the engine ran, or was it just that the low psi number concerned you.

I have a CRD tune with iridiums. They're about 30,000kms old and still going strong.

Was the 40 psi at idle or at load? Were you able to get a decent AFR at idle/load?

Update with diameters; Brand: G4 Piston QTY: 8 Rotor Size: 330x32 mm Piston Diameters: 1 x 31mm, 3 x 26mm

You could just get a dyno power run to check that the tune is safe after pump/cat/front pipe. If its not safe, just drive like a granny until you get the turbos+tune done. Agree with mad that it *should* be ok, especially if you keep the boost low, say, 10 psi. Remember the stock turbos can be fragile and can damage the motor when they let go if you're unlucky. You'll probably notice gains from changing the cat.

And plenty of stock motors have blown up too. We need know the how many and the how of the failures to be able draw useful conclusions.

Depends on what's wrong with it. Try checking the resistance of the primary coil in each one (you'll need to know which pins to check, and i'm not even sure if its possible on integrated ignitor coils like you have - depends on how their wired internally). Other than that, look for any arcing, which will happen if the insulation is flawed. Many people fix arcing issues with silicon or electrical tape. Search the DIY section for details on the insulation fix.

They changed the formulation when it became "ESP" and didnt publish the HTHS. Oh, and I CBF driving to Homebush to get it now that i can get Mobil 1 0W-40 from the ebays for $65.

If the ECU is performing closed loop control (which is when the o2 sensor is being used to trim the fuel delivery) the reading should flick back and forth. If that program displays the value as a gauge then the needle should flick back and forward a couple of times a second. To be in closed loop the engine needs to be up to temperature and at low throttle. I cant remember if its runs closed loop at idle - you might need to get a mate to watch ECUtalk while you're cruising. EDIT: the sensor might be disconnected/wiring broken. I don't think the ECU can tell if its just tired/worn out.

+11ty. How can anyone who runs a shop be so casual about their customers safety? Unfortunately, I've become very used to this quality of service and level of competance...

Can you supply a supporting argument to that statement? Especially what "better" means. And what's the implication of that for its use in RB's? FWIW I ran Delvac 1 5W-40 for a couple of years in my RB26, and in my previous car for a couple of years before that.

Given the amount of work you've already committed to, IMO its worth doing the rest and doing a full rebuild (without head porting, which AFAIK its a poor value mod at GT-SS level). Since the motor is out and you're taking the crank out, you'd do the mains and big ends while you're there... might as well just finish the job. If it were my money I'd just do the balancer (since its a bolt on) and push the GTSS as far as you can (so no set psi figure) with a safe tune. Run an oil cooler/use quality oil/overfill sump. Don't rev the crap out of it. Also, I assume when you're asking "will it survive", you are asking not specifically if your engine will survive, but something more like "assuming the motor is in good nick and I do all the things necessary to look after it (safe tune, dont let it starve oil etc) will there be a good chance it will handle that power level for a couple of years". IMO the people in this thread have been too caught up in "every motor is different, we dont know how good your motor is, we dont know how you drive it" sort of thinking, which, while it is all true and valid, doesn't help OP at all. My best guess is; -7, -9, GT-SS = ok on a good stocker (with all the caveats) -5 or more = full rebuild with forged pistons

Delvac 1 5W-40 is a multi-fleet oil, and is SM/SL compliant. So, perfectly fine to run in our cars. It used to, and may still, have better HTHS than Mobil 1 0W-40. Dont know about plain Delvac 15W-40, IIRC its not synth, and may not have Sx compliance. If that's the case, avoid it. Oh, and I havent updated this in a while; LINKY FWIW I'm running Mobil 1 0W-40. No problems.

There's a thread about using 8 vs 16 bit Z32 ECUs in R33's. Cant remember the details but IIRC you can tell them apart using the part number and you need to use the 8bit one. Maybe this was it from the Hypergear thread: LINKY

Brand: G4 Piston QTY: 8 Rotor Size: 330x32 mm Piston Diameters: putting track pads this weekend for Wakie on the 17th, will measure and post back then.

What's the rationale for going with an N1 pump on a existing motor? What will you do to stop the higher flowing N1 pump from emptying the sump and destroying the motor? Pretty much everyone only changes the oil pump when they are rebuilding the motor, and including all the oil control mods at the same time so the package works together.

NPC do organics rated to 300kw - IIRC mine was about $700 delivered. Very easy in traffic.

As data point, I'm running xforce split dumps with -7s on 17psi and making 305kw. Factory air box. Another reason not to focus on the dumps at this stage is that changing them is a big job, so you only want to consider it if you have very strong indications that they are the problem. So, IMO, forget the dumps for the moment. What are your front pipe dimensions? FWIW the primaries on mine are 56mm ID and the secondary is 76mm. Other than front pipe, I'd be looking at your inlet side for leaks or restrictions.

Two common reasons the clutch wont throw; - fuse is blown - gas has leaked out again So check the fuse first, and if that's ok, get the gas checked again. If you cant be bothered checking the gas properly, there'll be a valve (at bit like to tyre valve) under a red cap on one of the air con lines, you could press it to see if there's any gas left.

Dot 5 is silicon based and cant be used. Use dot 4 or 5.1. I used to use the Motul 600, but i'm now using the Nulon "super dot 4 extreme performance". Its rated to 280 degrees (so not as high as the motul, which is rated to 310) but its less than half the price and you can get it anywhere.

If you don't have any luck, try calling racebrakes. They have kits for the front, but i cant remember about the rears. IIRC they will mail/courier them to you.

There's probably still air in the system (you too SS8 and wlspn). Did they bleed the ABS unit? FWIW the order should be; Left rear brake Right rear brake Left front brake Right front brake Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car) Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall)

Its strange they didn't pull all the toe out of the rear - AFAIK that's usually pretty straightforward. It would be interesting to ask why. And yeah, the right rear camber needs sorting. Maybe the adjuster was stuck and they didn't bother freeing it up? Front looks ok, - were you getting wear there too? I would expect the front wants to change direction a lot not more now. If its too unstable get the toe reduced. If you're anywhere near Tempe, try Heasmans next time.