MrStabby

Go OEM unless you *know* the brand is good. There's a lot of crap silicon hoses out there.

Looks like my condensor has a leak. I'd rather buy new - do i have to pay Nissan tax or is there any alternative (especially if its more suited to R134a)? EDIT: has anyone had success with leak sealer refrigerant?

So... your post implies that it's not possible to have a smooth tune with an fc djetro, and it seems everyone agrees with you as no-one has said "just get it tuned properly". Am i missing something?

In. I paid via direct deposit just now. Form to come.

If its just the injector seals leaking then check out the DIY in my sig and do it yourself. However, its common for old GTR injectors to leak through the body, which you'll see as wetness on the injector body. I had 3 doing this, so I got a set of new 550 seimens for ~600 (ebay, from US), but of course you need to have an aftermarket ECU to run different injectors. If you're strapped for cash, just do the turbos and live with the leaky injectors a bit longer (keep an eye on them tho).

That's how its supposed to be. Squeal can be caused by vibration between the pad backing plate and the piston, so gluing them together stops the squeal.

New -7s should be $2200 for the pair, so $2800 for high flows is pointless. Leaking is common with GTR injectors, as is rear turbo failure... Fatz - is $40 to stop the leaking through the body of the injector? (that is not dribbling into the cylinder). Who does that sort of repair?

I'm here for the wimmins, but expecting disappointment.

If the problem is due to the insulation on the old coils (you may be able to see arc marks), you can tape/silicon them up. Search the DIY section for details. If the problem is due to more boost/airflow, then try gapping the plugs down to 0.9 or even 0.8 to see if that sorts it out. If they're truely stuffed, then get aftermarket ones, like splitfires or yellowjackets. Many of the Traders sell them, so check that section.

They're different units 32 to 33, so i'm going to say no, it wont work. If you find someone who will rebuilt it, please post their details. I ended up buying a new one, and that hurt.

Do you remember if the rotor spun freely after you installed the shims? The shims will only be a problem if the shim+pads+rotor combined thickness causes it to bind. Following on from what Roy said, be careful not to push a piston all the way out, so go gradually and put something in the caliper space to hold back the pistons that are moving well, and identify the stuck piston. Just installing the old worn pads should give you enough space. If you're doing it by yourself check the pistons between each pedal press. You may even find the stuck piston frees up after moving it out and back in again.

I reckon its unlikely you've done any damage. Filters usually have the part number printed on the body. FWIW when i do a change, i unplug the CAS and crank until the oil light goes off. Then re-connect it and start up.

Missfire/hesitation. You'll notice it when vacuum hits zero (unless you're just at 0. Since one turbo is not turning, it becomes a hole to atmosphere so the gauge wont go past zero). The car should run normally if you have some vacuum (that is, at low throttle - you're boost gauge also shows vacuum). Normal when your turbo is gone will top out at ~90kw...

Oil pressure senders on rbs are unreliable, but you don't want to be relaxed if the warning light is coming on. Have you changed the oil yet?

Check the brake fluid reservoir - is it low? Follow the leak back to the source. One of the lines may be a bit loose, but you should use a flare nut spanner to tighten it as open enders can damage the fitting. If fluid has leaked onto the pads you'll have to replace them as well.

In a 32 GTR it will make the car RWD. No effect on the mechanical LSD or course. No particular risk in running this (33s and 34s are different).

Boost leak = black smoke Broken turbo(s) = no boost at all, rough running when you try to put the motor into the conditions that would used to have made boost. No black smoke IIRC, and they can go with no/little noise.

N^HPiggaz is right. You don't want to change the turbo just to find out the problem is not turbo related. Cleaning injectors + changing fuel filter is a good idea, also check the fuel rail pressure then get it re-tuned. If you don't have adjustable cam gears, get them installed and setup with the tune for a bit more response. You should have another 30-40kw. EDIT: also, put the highest flowing injector in cylinder 6.

Mazda Rx4 for ~$1600, full of rust so i glassed and bogged all the holes. 13B auto After my parents VB 5.0L, the revs were a revelation!

There's no reason for anyone to think that - there's plenty of over 300kw results in the RB26 sticky. I'm 305kw on 17 psi. IMO 320kw is a better ballpark expectation for -7s.

If you only want 300kw, then the extra $400 for the -9s is a waste of money. If you want to go past 320kw, then they're the right choice.

nokia + bluetooth gps + racechrono = win iphone + tomtom cradle + harry's lap timer = win iphone using the built in gps = fail

Yep. Fuel pump control module - its what brings the power feed to the pump down to 9V at idle, by switching in a soft earth (that is, an earth connection via a resistor). I've had two fail on me, so i'm running a direct earth now.

Shifter to gearbox boot is stuffed, so the gearbox fumes come into the cabin.

Check the oil in the box and diff as soon as you can. If you have to drive before checking them, do so as gently as possible. If the either level is low, top it up and see if the noise goes away (unlikely, but worth a shot). If the levels are both normal, take it to a specialist. When was the last time the oils were replaced?