MrStabby

If three workshops that heard the noise didnt know, then your chance of getting a good response from people that cant hear the noise isnt good. Were the workshops familiar with RB26s? Are you familiar with how other GTRs sound? Lifters and injectors do make a lot of ticking noise, but since you said knocking it sounds like you're hearing something else.

You probably should specify what you've checked, and how. We may have a different idea of what 'everything" means.

So, could OP get an endoscope camera to take a photo of the piston crowns, and if there's pitting then he has a very strong case that the tune damaged the motor? Or is there more to it than that? Any value in checking big end bearings (or??) for confirmation, or is piston pitting unequivocal?

Elite/Rolls - holding all other things the same, wouldn't hot plugs slightly increase the tendency to ping?

Just checking - you realise those two things are unrelated, right? I can't tell from your post. The cam timing can be off and the spark timing can be fine, and the cam belt can be well past its reliable life, and the spark timing can be fine.

I'm happy with the $300 Cooling Pro I got from JJ. The neck is machined, so is tougher than the pressed metal of the alloy rad that was in there when i bought the car. Needed to trim a side off the shroud to make it fit. Havent tried it at the track yet though.

FWIW I was actually using Delvac1 5W-40 as its a bit tougher under stress than Mobil 1 0W-40. Can you get Mobil 1 in 5W-40? I'll probably go for Mobil 1 0W-40 next time as its easier to get. Remember factory fill is a 7.5W-30! I would always go with what the engine builder recommends, even though I think many of them are stuck in the past WRT oil viscosity. If the mangatech is a full synth, it will be fine.

What happened with the thin oil? 5w40 works well for me.

When you're designing an engine for efficiency, thin oils are better. AFAIK that's a common grade these days. Not sure about how long the oil will last at 150 tho. Would be good to get it analysed to check its condition.

Oh BTW when I suggested a new set, I meant a new set of coilovers, not just springs. Will be more expensive, but you new is nice. Only consider new springs if the current coilovers are in good nick.

OT: Rolls, do you know what the difference is between the two integral ignitor coil types? Ie the neo ones and the R34 GTR ones? Is Neo more powerful? Any idea which has the lower primary winding resistance?

+1, same. FWIW 255 is not the tread width, and there will be a little variability depending on what brand/model of tyre you get. You can usually find the actual tread width on the manufacturers website, and its the tread width that's important WRT rubbing.

If they're not leaking you could think about throwing some softer springs at them and resetting the height to something sensible, but you may then have too much dampening for the spring rate. Probably better to get a new set. Spring rate is very important. Find out what rate your current springs are (check the sticky, not sure if its still active tho) to give you some perspective on what to go for. Or else find someone with, say, 5 or 6kg front/4kg rear in a brand you can afford and see if you like them. The bounciness in the ones you tried could have been stuffed shocks or ride height too low causing bottoming out on the bump stops, so if you can, find another 4/4 to try.

Did you perform a sensor check in Nistune? Also WRT the richness, did you adjust the injector latency? If the Sards are faster acting than the stockers this could be the problem. The latency adjustment is in a different location to the injector resize function (which doesn't seem like a good idea to me).

Thanks, but pretty much everyone else that posted in this thread knows more than me..... I forgot about both the o2 sensors and the brembo bolt size differences...

+1 "Never attribute to malice that which is adequately explained by stupidity."...Hanlon's Razor.

Nope - it cant happen. The broken turbo is basically a hole to atmosphere, so its like having a cooler pipe off.

- exhaust manifold, turbos, dump pipes front pipe, intake pipes = Yes, pretty sure all that is good - wholes brembo brake system front and rear = Yes a lot of people run them - front seats = Yes, they bolt straight in - injectors = Yes - coilpacks = No, but you *might* be able to remove the ignitor and wire them in, but i've never heard of anyone doing that.

Ok since its still boosts, its definitely not blown turbo. Is there was black smoke when it splutters?

+1, so check if any of the intercooler pipes have popped off (boost leak), or disconnect the front pipe from the cat and look for this; That's the remains of a ceramic turbine...

Yes, they're supported. I'm sure you can verify that in the product documentation at nistune.com.

We are pointing out that he's running a high risk, its up to him to accept that risk or not. There is plenty of evidence that these turbos fail quickly at that boost, and quite a few instances where turbo failure has destroyed the engine. It makes a very poor cost/benefit trade off for most people. None of us were there, but what's the relevance of that? We are taking OP at his word, and assuming that he understood what he was told. If we dont make those assumptions there's no point in responding. FWIW, my stock GTR turbos failed at 13psi. Fortunately, no motor damage. This is a community, and as such we should look out for each other. If I were in OP's shoes, i'd want to know about the risk.

Did they comment on the reliability of the turbos at that boost, and what can happen if they fail? If not, they did not do the right thing by you IMO. Did he offer an opinion about the reliability of 10-12 year old fuel pumps?

By local injector, do you mean a locally supplied or locally made/highflowed injector? If locally supplied, was that also a flow matched bosch?