MrStabby

Thanks everyone - I was hoping there might be somewhere closer to the city. FWIW Hornsby Nissan give trade to SAU members. John Forster seems to take care of the import stuff.

I'm with rolls on this one - why would change in torque produce wheelspin? Think about how torque becomes force at the road surface.

It,s close to the TPS, so could be that - cant remember. OP should see the other side of the plug nearby.

You both made my brain hurt. But a question about location - since the flywheel is not counter weighted, why is location a big deal? The coarse location of 1 in 6 possible bolt positions shouldnt be important on a non-counter weighted flywheel, so perhaps its the fine location so that the side of the flywheel holes do not touch the side of the bolts, and its only the head of the bolt that touches the flywheel? As mentioned, it's not recommended to have shear forces against threaded sections of a bolt. Instead you should have straight shaft, and for bolts that are designed for shear forces you notice that the shaft is a greater cross section than on a typical bolt. When you roll a thread into a standard bolt this makes valleys of lower diameter than the shank and hills higher than the shank. But on a bolt made for shear loading the shank is at about the same diameter of the hills on the thread. I can post up a photo of a front drive shaft bolt if the description is not clear.

I've used Hornsby Nissan a lot an they're good, but who else? Rockdale?

No, organic clutches are much more user friendly - they feel just like the stock clutch. Puk clutchs are always harsher engagement, with cushion button in between the two. I use my car in slow traffic so grabby clutches piss me off, and i dont have enough power for it to be a problem. If you want to rip mad skidz tho.... Mine's also a 250mm whereas standard push is 240mm. I *think* standard pull clutches are 250mm.

I have an NPC organic rated for 300kws so bollocks to that! However, usage is also an important consideration when selecting a clutch.

Is the gearbox itself noisy, or do you mean that the dual mass flywheel rattles when it gets old? What's the theory behind that? I would have thought a dual mass could only make noise as it gets old, not help suppress noise. Especially considering its connected to the engine not the gearbox. OP - I cant see how non-dual mass, non-multi plate clutch would be noisy. I mean, what can rattle? I'm looking for edumacation plz

I don't know if the HKS ones are stainless or not, but I was told by a performance exhaust shop not to wrap stainless as it will make it brittle, and you'll get cracks.

Nah, thats a good list (if you like button clutches.... Some suggest doing the gearbox input shaft seal, but i didnt bother. What's the bellhousing/engine gasket? I think you may be assuming there's something there that inst!

Well its a bush (aka plain aka journal) bearing, just not a roller bearing. You can get roller spigots, but i've heard they're not reliable. Its also made from sintered bronze, so its full of tiny holes, and the holes are used hold lubricant.

I had ebay (non-branded) silicon radiator hoses. Always leaked, and one failed after about a year. Went back to OEM and they're perfect.

Which bit is the retainer? On my G4's the pads are held in by two bolts inside two thin pipes, and a spring clip sits between these two bolts and rests on the pad. I cant think of any bit that would snap easily - are the K sport the same arrangement?

To ensure consistency. You have assumed that each injector off the production line flows the same. The thread linked below contains comments that ID's are sets of bosch's that have been flow matched. No reason to think JECS wont suffer the same variability. "They are ID ones by the looks of the extender, Keep in mind they are only Bosch injectors flow matched and tested, I asked the guys at AZNEW today when I ordered my proflow fittings, they said theirs come in Bosch boxes and are unmodified. " "I had a bad experience with the bosch 2000's one injector flowed 7-8% more at idle and fouled the plug real bad.. Im guessing injector dynamics found the same problem and is probably why they push the flow matched sets that you pay a premium for.. " http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/361011-will-my-sard-700cc-injectors-support-400awkw/page__st__40

When one of my turbo lines was just stretching the KC flare nut spanner apart and rounding off the edges, i just cut off the pipe off so i could use a socket, and it came out easily. I figured it was already stuffed enough to warrant replacement, so no problems in cutting it off.

I've used 595 SS at the track, and yeah being a straight street tyre they're not great. RT615s and 585RSRs were more fun. I havent tried R specs yet because ive only got a single set of rims.

Yeah dont get china spec no-name silicon hoses - they're not reliable... IIRC BeerBaron mentioned Samco do quality silicon, or just get the Nissan OEM rubber ones. JC that seems quite expensive (but since Jap made should be good quality). IIRC OEM from Nissan cost me somewhere around the $300 mark.

For flare nut (and open ender) spanners its worth spending the dollars to get a good brand IMO. I have some KC flare nut spanners and while they're nicely made i sort of wish i'd gone kinchrome or equivalent. For ring spanners or sockets i'd imagine the KC stuff would be great. www.vektools.com.au - i think i got my KCs from there too.

For those symptoms, its likely to be a blocked radiator, or if you have a huge front mount, it may be blocking air the the radiator. Could possibly be a stuck thermostat as Stig says, but AFAIK they typically present as stuck closed. I guess you could take it out, put it in a sausepan of cold water on the stove and check that its fully open when the water is boiling. Definitely wont be clutch fan or shrouding. Of course we're assuming its got proper coolant and been bled, and that you're not loosing any coolant from a leak.

If you do a search this has been discussed before - most recommend packing the area with grease then hammering a shaft that's the same diameter as the spigot hole into it, which makes the grease push the back of the spigot and it should pop out. Didnt work for me tho....

Some people seem to call S spec tyres (KU36, RT615, 595RSRs) semi slick and some dont. Everyone seems to agree that R spec tyres (888s RE55s) are called semi slicks. OP needs to decide if he wants S or R spec. If you're only going to run one set of rims and use the car for street as well, you'll probably want S specs, in which case the 595RSRs are good (more expensive than KU36s but more grip).

The idea with security controls is to make it difficult enough that the thieves decide its not worth the hassle (and possibly move on to an easier target, but then its someone elses problem). For example, safes are rated on how long they take the crack under a standardised environment. IMO, yes an alarm is worth it (for example, it may have saved the OP a smashed steering column) and if it appears that its going off for no reason multiple times, be aware that this is one way thieves trick people into turning it off. So if that happens, hide close by with a shotgun/baseball bat/German Shepard etc

The lean at idle symptoms you describe in your first post is typical of having the latency too low, whereas at WOT latency setting is not important. So - fixing the latency setting should help a lot!

Yeah the vibration is what caused me problems.... If I were you, i'd start with; - Check rotors with verniers, if 30mm or over, keep them - get a set of track pads in the fronts at least - Ferodo DS3000, EBC Yellow etc. Swap them in just before you drive to the track, then put the current ones back in when you get home And see how that goes. My car already had 17s, so the 324/330s weren't a problem.