MrStabby

That just means the shifter to gearbox boot is stuffed. When you're in 5th the stretch opens it up. Its common issue. I dont know if you can replace the boot without replacing the whole shifter (cant see how you would get a new one on). I spent ~$260 on a 10% nismo short shifter which of course had a new boot. The 10% is hardly noticeable...

Its an oversimplification. Many jap coilovers come with very stiff springs. That set looks good. Tein super streets are another option, with similar spring rates.

The latest issue of HPI has an article that states that the rocker cover baffles are vital, and that a lot of engine builders remove them.... The article is about RB26s but I imagine 25s have similar. So - are the baffles still there?

Once that box fails, the direct wire is a good option I've had two die.... but agree that for many people its pointless. They just get scared when they see the lower voltage across the pump when the soft earth is switched in because they measure at idle or ign. OP - the earth is switched - not power, so depending on how you're looking at it you will just see an earth from the ECU, or more accurately, from the fuel pump control module. Can remember if power is switched as well.

That add says twin spray, but single hole - is that possible?

I find i like to use the extra engine braking caused by the spin up of the motor when i don't heel/toe (of course easing the clutch out so avoiding compression lockup of the rears) and I still get the regular engine braking you're talking about from the closed throttle. I guess the only way to interpret this however, is that my brakes are too front biased, because I reckon my way of doing it gives me better overall stopping. If the brakes were better balanced the non-heal/toe would cause compression lockup on the rears.

Send him this link: http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stock+R32+GTR+intercooler+site%3Awww.skylinesaustralia.com

Oh of course - we really should be talking about what torque the injectors max out at since that will be related to airflow - not at what power.

I see that stated a lot but can't understand why! Can you explain why would engine capacity makes a difference?

What GPS location did you use? Also, how to you define a track - either the interface has changed since I last did it, or the Alzheimer's is kicking in early... Rob - nice photos!

True, but OP could just drive a shirtbox for another year (so no XR6T) and save up some more in the meantime. That way you don't have to risk the dream becoming a nightmare.

Big thanks to Matt and Duncan! (but somehow i now need to get an electric rattle gun... and i blame you Duncan . Was a great day. My brakes seemed to work fine despite the sparks... The rain just made it "different" not "worse".

The 5-10K is all up so insurance, rego, buying go faster bits and making it like I want. eg R34 GTR seats at $1800, -7s+install+tune+testing $5500. Depending on how your luck goes you might find the 32 GTR a problem budget wise. If i were you i'd probably go with something else. That said, I frikken love mine...

NPC organic is something like $700 delivered, good for 300kw, feels like stock clutch.

AFAIK you'll only spin bearings if you run out of oil.... So most people won't have that problem if they take the usual precaution of overfilling to the bump in the dipstick if going on a track day. Oh and don't bounce off the rev limiter and break the oil pump. I've found that all the rubber bits are all dying on mine. So coolant hoses, ABS/brake and clutch cylinders etc. And yes get rid of ceramic turbine turbos. I spend about $5-10K a year on mine all up, but I'm always buying new bits for it.

Interesting. I would guess many tuners dont bother to do much with the closed loop cells, because the closed loop will fix them. But given that behaviour, taking the trouble to set the closed loop cells open loop and tuning them to about 14.7 will be important to make sure the LTFT doesn't bugger up your tune! I'm pretty surprised the old ECUs have LTFT - its impressive for that vintage. Thanks for the info

Facepalm - of course. I must remember to engage my brain.

Are you talking just o2 feedback or the whole shebang? What does LTFT stand for? XXfuel trim?

Hehe - so you're not going to put the highflow injector in no. 6? IIRC the pfc can trim pulse width per injector and some ppl use that to bump up the duty on no. 6 which leans out a bit because the plenum shape encourages higher flow on that cylinder. Maybe all this is a bit too much of a hack tho - 10% is a lot.

I didn't want to pollute the other thread about using RB26 ecu on RB20 - Mafia are you saying that all injectors are trimmed the same based on averged airflow - ie the motor is not divided into two lots of three cylinders, they're just averaged across all 6? Makes sense because if you divided control you could be on multiple points of the fuel map. What about o2 closed loop? If that wasn't separated what does the ECU do if one o2 reads rich and the other lean?

Check the second photo that shows the pistons together. The pins are at the same height and you can see 33 crown has more bulk on the top, so will produce higher compression than the neo piston. Think about how much space will be left when the piston is at TDC.

You can only know for sure that there are no blockages if you've measured the pressure either side. That said, it's pretty unlikely unless someone left a rag in the intake piping somewhere during the install.... Considering that you just changed stuff, it would be a co-incidence if something else went bad at the same time (ie injectors) so I'd focus on the new and weird stuff first, so; - verify if the fuel rail temperature is normal - swap out the intercooler Also, do the spark plugs look normal? If you do have an injector problem you should see some inconsistency in the colour.

I'm in. Matt can you check if my SAU fees are paid up? I've got the iphone + tomtom cradle + harry's lap timer, which IMO works really well. Happy to loan it for Duncan's review.

Here's how to replace the clutch on an R32 GTR. In this case its an early R32 with a push clutch. I believe the pull clutches in later 32's and 33's require an additional step, which i've commented on. Here's a photo of a push setup http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=201068 if you have a pull, the slave will be on the other side of the fork. The rear main seal and spigot bearing replacement is typically done at the same time, because its a big job and you don't want to be doing it again any time soon. Some also do the gearbox input shaft seal. I did this solo on the floor of the garage, foreveralone.jpg. Tools Here's what I used, of course everything is metric. Not having the right tools is an indicator of self loathing -Half inch drive socket set -3/8s inch drive socket set -Metric ring on open ended spanners -Ratchet ring spanners -2 x 500mm half inch drive extension bars -half inch drive torque wrench -4 stands -2 trolley jacks, at least one big one (~30cm arm) -compressor + rattle gun (if you're removing flywheel, for machining or doing rear main seal. There are other options, this is just the easiest). -17mm flare nut spanner -circlip pliers -vice -hand oil pump -16mm diameter shaft (if replacing spigot) Parts -Clutch/pressure plate/throw out bearing -(Optional) Rear main seal -(Optional) Gearbox input shaft seal -(Optional) Spigot bearing -Grease -Engine oil (if you're removing the flywheel) -Cable tie -4 replacement front driveshaft bolts (potentially) Summary of Steps 1. Remove shifter 2. Put car up on stands 3. Mark rear tailshaft and disconnect 4. Mark front driveshaft and remove 5. Remove front pipe 6. Remove attessa connection and plug hose 7. Remove speedo cable 8. Disconnect reverse wiring 9. Unbolt clutch slave from bellhousing 10. Unbolt starter motor 11. Put jack under gearbox and remove crossmember 12. Unbolt bellhousing 13. Remove gearbox back out gearbox and lower, to clear tunnel, rotate starter motor bump down then pull gb back 14. Remove pressure plate and clutch plate 15. Remove flywheel (if replacing rear main seal, or if it requires machining) 16. (optional) replace rear main seal 17. (optional) replace spigot 18. (optional) replace gearbox front seal 19. Replace throw out bearing 20. Replace flywheel 21. Install new pressure plate and clutch 22. Install gearbox 23. Install starter motor 24. Reconnect reverse wiring 25. Reconnect tailshaft 26. Reinstall front driveshaft 27. Reconnect attessa 28. Install shifter 29. Check gearbox oil level 30. Bleed attessa 31. Check clutch pedal 1. Remove shifter Pull up the rear of the boot or boot surround near the ash tray - it has sprung clips and will pop out. There's no need to pull the boot off completely so just pull it up and push it to one side. You will then see the body to shifter boot. Undo the four bolts on the metal ring holding it down and pull it up and out of the way. You will now see the gearbox to shifter boot is held on by a cable tie. Cut the cable tie and pull that boot up. There is a circlip that holds the shifter in, so remove it with circlip pliers then pull the shifter up and out. 2. Put car up on stands You need a reasonable amount of height so the gearbox will clear the bottom of the car. I didnt measure at the time but ~30cm should be about right. 3. Mark rear tailshaft and disconnect The tail shaft has a flange that connects to a flange at the end of the gearbox and these flanges should be orientated the same way when you assemble them later. To make that possible put a small paint mark at the same place on each flange. If the gearbox has been removed before it should already have been done, so dont confuse yourself by putting another mark on. Then remove the four large bolts. The tail shaft wont fall down unless you riggle it back a bit towards the diff. 4. Mark front driveshaft and remove Again check for orientation marks and put some on if required. It seems that these bolts are often overtorqued and/or frozen. None of my smaller sockets or ring spanners would fit on either the bolt head or nut, and the open enders I used just rounded all four of then off so I used a die grinder to remove the bolt heads. It may be worth getting some cheap ring spanners and grinding them down to a thin wall so they'll fit... 5. Remove front pipe One of the 500mm socket extension bars will be useful on the front turbo's dump pipe. A smaller one on the rear. 6. Remove attessa connection and plug hose The attessa connection is the hose right at the rear of the gearbox. Use the 17mm flare nut spanner here. The hose will drain fluid so plug it. 7. Remove speedo cable There's a small bolt that holds a metal clip that must be removed first, then the main nut has keyways so you can use an open ended spanner on it. 8. Disconnect reverse wiring The wiring is on the drivers side of the gearbox, and the connectors will be inside a dust cover. The clips have a release that must pressed before the clips will come apart. 9. Unbolt clutch slave from bellhousing Tie it out of the way 10. Unbolt starter motor The starter is on the drivers side and held on by two bolts. Its no fun to get off - use a ratchet ring spanner. 11. Put jack under gearbox and remove crossmember Support the gearbox with your jack then remove the four small nuts holding the gearbox mount to the crossmember. Then remove the four large bolts holding the gearbox to the chassis and remove the crossmember. 11a - Pull clutches only - you need to relase the fork from the throw out bearing. 12. Unbolt bellhousing There are a number of bolts around the periphery of the bellhousing. The ones at the top are only reachable when you lower the gearbox a little and use the two 500mm extensions. You'll probably need a uni joint at the socket unless your extension ends allow some pivoting. 13. Remove gearbox The gearbox is 80kgs and will not just back out as the lump in the bellhousing to accomodate the starter fouls on the floorpan. Put the tailshaft flange on top of the gearbox flange to make it possible to move the gearbox backwards. Lower and back out gearbox until the starter bump fouls, paying attention to the tailshaft, then rotate the gearbox so that the starter motor bump is lower to the ground then pull gb back and out. 14. Remove pressure plate and clutch plate Perhaps it doesnt matter if you're throwing the old one away, but i prefer to loosen the bolts gradually. If the flywheel rotates when you're trying to get the bolts started, put a bellhousing bolt into one of the holes and jam a large screwdriver into the flywheel ring gear teeth to stop it rotating. The pressure plate spring will mean that the bolts wont be able to be removed by hand until the plate is almost off. Hold the pressure plate onto the flywheel as you take the last bolt out and it should hang on the dowels. Then remove it with the clutch plate with both hands, it a bit heavy. 15. Remove flywheel If the flywheel surface is rough and requires machining, or if you want to replace the rear main seal, you need to take the flywheel off. This is easy with a decent rattle gun. 16. (optional) replace rear main seal Here's what it looks like; Lever the seal out with a screwdriver use the edge of the crank as fulcrum. Be careful not to damage or scratch the crank surface the seal sits on. Carefully clean the surface. Put a little grease or oil on the inside of the seal (where it will mate with the crank) and the outside where it mates against the block and carefully and gradually tap it in all the way around, making sure it slides in evenly and is not skewed. 17. (optional) replace spigot (or just grease it if its ok) Here's what it looks like; its the copper coloured ring in the middle. To get it out either use a puller, or pack the bearing cavity with grease and then slide a 16mm shaft inside the bearing and hammer it. This will push the grease against the back of the bearing and it should pop out. Well that's what's supposed to happen - it didnt work for me. The new bearing is porous and the pores are there to hold lubricant. Fill the entire center section of the bearing with grease then place your fingers on both ends and push the grease into the bearing. A little should weep out the sides. Now tap the bearing into the same depth as the old one (it can go further, so be careful) making sure it doesnt go in skewed. 18. (optional) replace g/b front seal I didnt do this, but I believe you take the front plate off to get to it, and reassembly requires 3bond/sealant on the bolts. 19. Replace throw out bearing (push clutch shown) Remove the carrier from the clutch fork. There's a spring clip. Here it is with one side removed; Find a socket of about the same OD as the bearing carrier. Rest the bearing on top of the jaws of the vice then hammer the carrier out using the socket as a drift. To install the new bearing, find a socket that is the same diameter as the inner ring of the bearing. It is important not to put too much pressure on the other surface as it may damage the bearing. Now put the bearing, socket and carrier in the jaws of the vice and wind it shut to push the bearing onto the carrier. 20. Replace flywheel Put a few drops of engine oil on the flywheel bolt threads then torque them up to 142-152 Nm. Use the bolt with screwdriver on ring gear as above to hold the flywheel still. 21. Install new pressure plate and clutch You need a clutch aligning tool to make sure the that clutch plate is in the correct position when you bolt on the pressure plate. Here's my one; This one has different diameter ends so the 16mm one is chosen. Install the clutch and pressure plate and bolt it up finger tight. Insert the aligner into the spigot, then move the cone shaped part up into the clutch plate and wriggle it in util the clutch plate is dead center. Now gradually do up the bolts a little at a time so that it goes on evenly. Once all the bolts get tight, torque them to 34-44 Nm. If you are using a multi plate clutch you also need to ensure that the splines are lined up. An old gearbox input shaft can be used in that case. 22. Install gearbox You will face the same fouling problem on the way in. Some hammer some more space into the floorpan but that sounds a bit brutal to me, so I used a die grinder to take a little material off the starter bump ribbing. I believe this helped a lot. 23. Install starter motor 24. Reconnect reverse wiring 25. Reconnect tailshaft Remember to line up the marks. 88-98 Nm 26. Reinstall front driveshaft Put a little grease on the splines. 24-32 Nm if you have some way of getting a torque wrench in there. I put some grease on the thread and did them up as tight as I could without damaging the bolt head by feel. FWIW lubricated threads means that you only need to apply about 3/4 of the torque on the bolt head that you would on an unlubricated thread. 27. Reconnect attessa Flare nut spanner again. 28. Install shifter Remember to replace the cable tie around the shifter to gearbox boot. I also put one on the body to shifter boot. 29. Check gearbox oil level If its low, you can get a hand pump from supercheap/repco etc for $20. 30. Bleed attessa I used the instructions at http://www.skylife4ever.com/2011/01/bleeding-attesa.html but ended up with an overfilled resevoir. 10mm over the max line would have worked better for me. 31. Check clutch pedal Adjust take up point if required Now beers. You deserve them.