MrStabby

Did you do the test with the engine at normal operating temperature? Does anyone know how much difference there can be hot/cold?

Yep, or 350fr 340rr. IIRC stock ride hight is a lot higher than 355. OP are you sure the notches are only 10mm? Sounds too low to me. How much did they charge to raise the front?

Check the engine oil level - your rear main seal could be gone (since you mentioned it was leaking from the front of the box).

Not normal. Bleeding should fix it. The correct bleed order is; Left rear brake Right rear brake Left front brake Right front brake Front side ABS (nipple closer to the front of the car) Rear side ABS (nipple closer to firewall) EDIT: Will also feel better when the pad have bedded in.

Troll harder, oh and IBTL

Only crap kits leak. I spent $800 on an HKS cooler and relocation kit a couple of years ago and have had no issues. OP, if you cant afford a high quality kit, do nothing and just watch the temperatures. Cheap kits are notorious for leaking, some even weeping through the hoses. Of the four kits you showed, I'd go Risking

So you've got a problem with either the clutch maker or the workshop. I dont really understand how a clutch can be a "head ache" so since that sounds strange to me, first guess is its more likely to be the workshop than the clutch maker. So, I would; 1. Find a new workshop. Ask them if there's anything else they typically do when replacing the clutch. It's common to resurface the flywheel, and replace the rear main seal and spigot bearing when doing the clutch, so if they say they typically do that, its a good sign. 2. Give them the history, then ask them to pull out the current clutch and look for any issues with the installation, or the clutch itself, then call you with what they find. 3. Expect to be buying a new clutch. If you go with what the workshop sell, then you have a one stop shop if there's any problems. Any time you buy a part from one place and have it fitted by another, you risk ending up in the situation you're in now, where they blame each other. I can't conceieve of any reason that the clutch would behave differently with different weather conditions.

You could have searched http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/284557-snapped-the-timing-belt-idler-bolt/ http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/290065-bolt/

What about more timing? Did he try and fail, or not try? Did the spool rate improve at the high boost end, from say 18 to 24 psi?

Pez - what software is that? I can export the data from my gps as .csv, but I dont know what to process it with.

Yep - it uses the fore/aft accellerometer input as well.

I asked about doing it in a thread a while back and Rolls said he's seen it done plenty of times, so apparently they didn't change the signal voltage or make any other changes when integrating the ignitor with the coilpack. So +1 to GTSBoy's suggestion - just do it.

FYI another option is to take the old hose to Pirtek/Enzed and have them make you a new one. May well be cheaper, and will be a lot quicker than waiting for one to come from Japan if there's none in Australia. Is it this hose which has a rubber section then a metal tube section? If so, its a real pain to get out...

Were there any dead motors on the day? For me its more like "ok i'm knackered, i'll sit a session out".. Sir son of rajab - which car were you in? 67 seconds is hauling ass! What tyres were you running?

Maf was trying to stop you potentially wasting your time and/or money, because a lot of guys go for cams that are too big. If you're confident with your sizing, you could say "no worries, I've done my homework with cam sizing" and leave it at that. I'd use fine paper wet with engine oil if you're going to paper them. I used 1200 grit wet with brake fluid on my brake pistons - came up nicely and worked well in service. Sandpaper should be low very low risk if you go slowly with a fine paper and check the surface regularly.

FWIW $620 from rhdjapan. Ouch. Do put a set of the right 0.8 gap copper plugs in before anything else. See djr's quote in my sig

Maybe its just me, but i find it takes me longer to get into a rhythm with my driving. With 10 minutes i'm only getting one good lap in. I like the speed off the street day 20 minute sessions but 15 would be fine as well.

Thanks to all the organisers for a great day. I think I won the lawnmowing award for biggest off. Here's picture of my crotch (control your orgasms ladies) after said incident; I had newbie George (who had the AMG) in the car at the time - soz brah. One thing tho - 10 minute sessions are too short, should be 15 minimum.

I thought water to air was just a workaround if you dont have space for air to air, so not necessary for a skyline. LINKY

Sorry yellows. Track, no problems, will buy them again if the A1RMs aren't as good. As you'd expect they don't have much bite on the street, they're usable but feel crappy. Also they seem quite gentle on rotors at street temps, unlike DS3000s which seem to chew rotors at street temps. Pad life has been fine.

I thought the theory was that track pads running under temperature were in "abrasive" mode, so they wouldn't lay down any material (they just chew out the rotor)? And as a side effect clean off any material left behind by other pads. FWIW I'm going to try A1RMs ($180) in the G4s at Wakie on saturday. Was happy with the EBC golds, but they're more like $300 (which is still cheap).