MrStabby

I've had two pump controllers die on me, so i went direct for that reason. I heard on here that some pumps (Walbros?) dont play well with the controller, ie they need the full 14v all the time. Of course stocker pumps should be fine, and i imagine nismo/sard etc are too. If the stock pump is a problem i doubt a direct wire would help at all. Maybe just get a power run to see what your AFRs are.

Oh gawd yes. Balancers (which actually dampen vibration, they dont effect balance) are very important for the life of the oil pump especially, and the engine more generally.

Not sure about that WRT injector duty. As the injector control is open loop at full power, i would expect it to just run lean if there's not enough fuel to the rail. CLEAN stock injectors should be ok for around 280kw, but if they're dirty they may have lost a third of their flow, so then you're down to ~187. Stock GTRs make about ~175. Good exhaust, 1 bar and a tune, and you'll probably be more like ~240kw. tl:dr - might be dirty injectors. But yeah, i'd probably still change fuel filter then check fuel pump before worrying about injectors.

IMO you should get a shop of your own choosing to look at it, so they can test the compression (don't trust what the seller says) and verify its a N1 block. IIRC you can see the 24U marking from underneath when plastic shield is removed, somewhere under the front turbo. Or even better, get your shop to do a full pre-purchase inspection. Was the compression test done hot or cold? Throttle open? Gauge calibrated? etc. If the tester doesn't know what they're doing the test results are bollocks.

"responsive" is a subjective term, that is, different people have different ideas on what can be considered responsive or not. It will not help you make a decision. You want to know something objective, like "1 bar boost by X rpm". Of course it depends on application, and therefore Unigroup are the only sensible opinion out of the bunch.

Nah 320 for -7s. Check the RB26 sticky

You're posting in the wrong section. Use: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/13-wanted-to-buy/

Coppermix twins are rated at somewhere around 470kw, so its probably just worn out rather than not up to the task. Rebuild time.

Take it easy Prank (no wasteland gap/volleyball/ink threads!) and get well soon. Oh, and thanks for SAU!

NPC organic single. Nice in traffic, pedal just a bit heavier than standard, good for 300kw. I think it was just under 700 delivered at the time. I had a Giken twin and hated it because as soon as it got any temperature in it, it was a light switch. But Matt ^ likes his, so maybe he has a different model or its just different personal preference.

How much for the bosch?

IIRC the earlier parts are deprecated, and therefore if you want to rebuild an early box (R32) you may have to bring it up to R33 Series 2 (or is it series 3?) standard with some updated parts. AFAIK all the parts are available tho. Nissan or rhdjapan or....

Find out what your current spring rate is as a reference to start with. There some spring rate calculators out there if the spring rate sticky is dead. I went from 10/8.5 to 8.2/6.4 and its way better but still too stiff for street. Would be about right for track only (they came out of a race car). I bought the Tein NAs second hand for $700. I think I sold my old, non-height adjustable Teins for around $400.

Damn - is there much difference? How would you rate PSS9 valving compared to others in the <$2K range? It would have to be way better than my Tein NAs right?

Hmmm i've got 8.2/6.4 Teins ATM that are still bit too stiff... 7/6 with the great bilstein valving should be very nice. I just need to get someone in sydney with them to let me ride shotgun!

Ni^H^HPiggaz - does it (or can it) use the stock flywheel? On the giken twin i had the flywheel and "plate cage" were a single piece.

Subscribed What's the spring rate? Did you get to choose?

Nope, the throw out will always come in a clutch kit. Throw out should always be replaced when you do the clutch, spigot is often ok. If the throw out is dead it will squeal when you push the clutch pedal. Spigot is the bronze copper ring in the center at end of the crank;

Yeah no-ones likely to ever know about the abs removal. I got my new abs from rhdjapan.com

+1 trident and wolv. Yes, the turbine will be by far the most restrictive part of the exhaust, but its a restriction you want. Any other restriction before or after the turbine reduces its ability to do its job.

Sounds like you mean the throw out bearing, which is the one that the clutch pedal pushes onto the pressure plate. Here's mine; The clutch kits i've seen all come with one. Just change it. Eventually it will fall to pieces and you wont be able to release the clutch.

After 20 odd years many 32 ABSs are leaking. New ones are $1500. I've not heard of any confirmed cases of successful rebuilds. Since ABS is safety equipment its illegal to remove it. Re: "If you know how to drive, you shouldn't need ABS". On the street where there are different surfaces and conditions, you wont know where the braking limit is. ABS is good.

Exactly - WTF? Most people dont have problems until you head north of 350kw, and AFAIK no-one has problems at <300kw. Something's not adding up.

Yeah GSL rallysport are an SAU trader now, and he sells tons of QFM stuff http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/217-sau-trader-gsl-rallysport-promotions/

A pair of -7s will probably be about $400 cheaper than -9s once you take into account new actuators. From the rb26 dyno sticky they seem identical to at least 300kw, but -9s would work a bit better if you push higher. You should be able to get them locally for that sort of money - check out the Traders section.