MrStabby

Yep same, and we're all BNR32s....they're at that age now. Marko, even just a list of steps and required tools would help - doesnt need photos.

Marko - how about doing a DIY for this?

Here's the difference of standard turbos to -7s on my car. Very few data points but its still instructive. Yes the ceramics spool faster. If you only cared about response, getting steel wheels on the stockers would probably be a good option. Seat of the pants dyno reckoned that clipped turbine high flows i had spooled more like stockers and -7s.

Correct. It wont be a pipe off or broken turbo. If that happens you have vacuum as normal, but never makes any boost.

Thread bump - just noticed rhdjapan.com have rh9 130watt RB/SR/VG alternators for ~$720 + delivery http://www.rhdjapan.com/rh9-hyper-alternator-130a-nissan-rb-sr-vg-68730

I've been to supercheap and autoone - couldnt find the right one at either shop. Autoone dude reckoned it wasn't generic and i'd have to get it from Nissan. Can anyone confirm/deny?

The 33 GTR rims are +30, so there should be plenty of room on the guard side, but what about at the front at full lock? Any touching of radius rod/upper control arm etc? What about fat tyre rubbing on liners? Or should i look for something in +20 (which i have now, but i'm looking for second set of rims for some R specs). tnx

+11ty. This is excellent advice.

+1 for both Superpro and JDM Obsession. The A in the part number that Lachlan quoted indicates its adjustable, so it gives you a bit more flexibility in the alignment setup. Skylines like more castor...

To illustrate what Dan was saying, here's a table that shows how bolt class, thread pitch and diameter effect required torque. Notice the effect of lubing the thread, so pay attention to whether the shop manual is instructing you to use engine oil on the bolt (eg flywheel bolts), http://www.cncexpo.c...ltTorqueNm.aspx

I make around 300kw on that boost with -7s, and that boost hits at around 4000rpm. But you wont do it with stock injectors at stock rail pressure and stock cat/catback. So get 550cc or similar injectors, and a 100 or 200 cell metal cat and 3 or 3.5in catback. Cam gears can make the turbos spool earlier, and if you change them you'll need to tune, so you might as well get them now and have it all tuned together. -7 come with new adjustable actuators, but they may need more pre-load. IIRC 10mm is a good starting point.

Heasmans in sydney do bilstein servicing. Maybe they can help

If you're not using it already, fully synthetic ATF has a higher boiling point than regular stuff. It might be enough for you.

Have a look at the gearbox on the drivers side. The slave cylinder will be on the right of the clutch fork it ifs push - see; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=201068

The kit in the first post looks the same as the R32 GTR (sumitomo calipers) and IIRC the 33 gtst calipers use the same pad. The shims match the profile of the pad backing plate. So what you got doesnt looks right - but i checked the part in FAST and it came back with the same part number....weird.

There's more the the coilpack than the primary winding. So, if the primary winding is NOT 0.6 - 0.9, you KNOW its stuffed. If it IS 0.6 - 0.9 it MAY or MAY NOT be stuffed. Or to say it another way - that check can only confirm that its broken, not that its good. If you can see any arcing marks, use the coilpack fix from the DIY. It addresses another issue that can go wrong with them, that is, that the insulation has failed.

I use xforce split dumps - they're fine. 305kw @ 17psi on -7s. 16psi at 4000rpm. If anything you could go slightly backwards spool wise with a bellmouth as they produce more turbulence post turbine. Changing dumps is turbo out, so not only will it not help, it will be expensive for labour....

The -9s should just be a little bit laggier than the stockers (my -7s are) so say 16 psi at around 4000. You're right that since it was working ok with the current exhaust it doesn't sound like its the whole problem. Boost control setup properly? Any leaks? If you're REALLY careful you could disconnect the boost signal to the actuators and plug the hose, then take it up to around 4000 to see if its builds boost differently. If it builds a lot better then your boost control needs work.

Yep - most logical place to start. If its not a metal matrix 100 or 200 cell already, just get one of those as it will be a worthwhile investment even if there are other problems. Check the flange sizes on your front pipe and catback to get something that either matches both, or matches the larger of the two. Some jap catback 3.5in systems use 3 in flange.

I went to http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/400359-eastern-creek-north-track-day-sat-02-june-invite-to-sau/ and had a great time - recommend any day Brett (WalkyHR31) puts on. It was raining and 5 cars ended up bent... I cut up the others in my session - Fed RSRs are great in the wet

.... with a straight edge and feeler gauges. I sure you find info with the googles.

Could be collapsed cat or intake leak.

If that's the case, then maybe a there's a few kws to be had by improving the intake/filter. If the compressor sees a vacuum then it has to overcome that to get back to atmospheric pressure before it can make boost, so there'll be more heat in the compressed air and spool will be slower.

NPC organic. Works well in traffic, 300kws. Somewhere in the $700 region.

As long as the tyre circumference is the same, ATTESSA should be happy because it reads is wheel rotation speed. So you could run a lower profile at the rear to bring the circumference back to the standard size. However, given that GTRs are very nose heavy and understeer, putting smaller tyres on the front makes no sense if you're concerned with how the car will perform.