MrStabby

Also - since you didn't mention it - motor is supposed to be at running temp

Hado, how's this: http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=npc+clutch

I wouldnt be too worried about looks - if it doesn't fit properly you will hate it regardless of how it looks. Not that i'm saying anything about fit, because I dont know.

Isnt the low boost at low revs on 34GTTs due to the dual stage boost controller?

No - 1 inch is 25.4mm, so there will be 13mm extra either side, and the difference in offset is only 8mm so the rears will stick out 5mm more than the fronts.

It would be worth talking to Matt from Nistune about that stuff. Maybe a Neo from a Stag would be easier than an rb26?

You could use nistune on that ECU. http://nistune.com/

For track setup, here's what i'd do with your car. You don't need more power at this stage. 1. Full drain and replace brake fluid with Nulon Xtreme Performance (280 deg) or better (Motul RBF600/660, but its 2+ times the price of the Nulon) 2. Get a set of A1RM pads from GSL RallySport (swap in for race day, and back out again after) 3. Get an expert opinion on if you're going to have oil starvation problems based on a detailed description of the original owners setup 4. Go to a track day and see how the car responds If the laggyness is a problem, getting cam gears and a retune for response should help somewhat. If its not enough, then swap the -5s for -9s.... Work on suspension setup/tyres etc. First steps are: fix anything broken or worn out, then mods are aftermarket coilovers, sway bars and attessa controller (esp if R32)

Tnx Zeb, SAUNSW deals with a Mick, so I assume its the same guy and he'll be able to offer advice on what does and doesnt work.

I run mine (N1 motor) with the oil overfilled to the first hump on the dipstick, no issues thus far running S spec tyres. I dont know what N1 motors have WRT oil control, but if the PO put a N1 oil pump in without doing any oil control mods then they've made the engine less reliable than it would be with a standard pump, as its more likely to starve oil, that is, empty the sump. And yeah Hado is right, -5s at only 300kw is not great. You can easily get 300 easily with -7s or -9s, which are much more responsive and therefore nicer to pull out of corners with.

Has any other size been tested? There's no reason to think a 245/35 would fit, right?

Thanks for the info Duncan. I guess i'll just try cheapo R888s as my first R specs then, unless anyone wants to suggest something else in the cheaper end of the scale in 255-35-18s.

Given that 595 RSRs appear to have some weird compatibility problem with R34 GTR rims (apparently the tyre cant be fitted to this particular rim) i'd like to know if anyone has fitted FZ201s to them before I buy a set...

Thanks Pete - great day. You appear to have a pathological hatred of tyres.... Thanks for the loan of the helmet Owen - lifesaver! My car is a bit crook - i reckon collapsed cat or boost leak.....

More likely to be a air leak than belts, and if that's the case, it will run extra rich - do you have more black smoke out the exhaust than usual?

Nope - OP's a GTR (or are you saying the boost gauge is not connected to the plenum, but throttle body)

Given that they're connected - how much difference does it make? (assuming the intercooler flows well) Any ideas on how OP gets nothing at actuators but vac at boost gauge? I would have assumed they would be pretty much the same at idle.

I dont understand how that can be - dont they both connect to the plenum? No vac to wastegates suggests a leak, and if you have a leak you wont make boost.

it doesn't work like that - if one turbo is seized or has lost its turbine, then its compressor effectively makes a hole to atmosphere that the boost from the good turbo will flow out of. Half boost is a boost control issue.

Did you also remember to adjust the latency? It makes a big difference at idle. This is the note from my DIY "- If using Nistune; turn the ignition on, load the config from the ECU, save a copy of the config to disk. Select 'Operations -> Resize Injectors'. Enter the original injector size and the new injector size. If the current injectors are OEM you can pull the size in with the 'Factory CC' button. If the new injectors have a different latency to the old ones, use 'Injector Latency -> Change Constant' to make the correction. Apply the new config to the ECU and save the new config to disk using a different filename."

Ok, so there's no point it getting Toshi down if you're using Nistune, only if your doing ROM burns. My other post was a leading question, and it led.

Yep, if your talking about the coupler. Brake = the things that make your car slow down Break = smash / destroy So we're talking about break couplers on brake lines....

Are there no tuning shops in SA?

Check if a cooler pipe has come off. This is what broken turbine looks like;

So, 9am start? Or earlier for exhaust sound check (and for the hektik, barbed wire enemas.....). FYI - directions http://www.mdtc.com.au/directions/index.html