MrStabby

There used to be a group buy for Frosty Auto Air in Bass Hill. He does good work. I've also used Hahn Automotive in Alexandria, but that was just a re-gas after i changed the condensor. Also seemed good. Also dont forget the auxilliary fan diode mod in the DIY section. It should help with the going hot when stationary issue.

What oil are you using?

I have placed 3 or 4 orders with RHD, and have been pleased with the result every time.

Might be similar to what i have, which I'm guessing is rooted input shaft bearing in the gearbox. I've been driving with it that way for years now (but no launches). I'll get the box rebuilt the next time i take it out. Check the oil level as a precaution. Carcass? "Death is no escaaaaaaaaape..."

I think thats a non-standard cap as well. The factory one has a level gauge in it and two wires out the top that will throw an error light on the dash when the level gets low. Check if there's an electric plug with two contacts nearby. I use full synth ATF in mine - lasts a lot longer and has a higher boiling point. Some find their fluid boils at track days.

Assuming you like that style of clutch (it will be more bitey than the organic you have now) it does indeed look pretty new, but I imagine you could find out the factory thickness spec and check the thickness of this one with callipers.

On the GTR two hoses run up the bracket you're referring too, which has two metal pipes both with the 180 bend at the top.

Its on the turbo side, somewhere near the front turbo. Take the under tray off and look from under the car. It will say 24U if it has an N1 block and 05U if it has a regular RB26. You'll see 05U on the head so do be confused by that.

That statement doesn't make sense because if the magnetic clutch is buggered then the compressor wont engage. I've not heard of a case where the mag clutch engages but the compressor isnt driven. You should hear a loud click when the mag clutch engages. If it doesn't engage, it may be that; 1. the fuse is blown (which may in turn be due to the solenoid in the mag clutch breaking down and pulling too much current - you check that by measuring its resistance, will need to be 3.5 ohms if its the same as R32s). If you replace the fuse and it dies quickly that's likely the problem 2. not enough gas do trigger the pressure switch (as mentioned above)

"the oil should be as thin as possible and just as thick as necessary" If you're running an oil that thick, you tend to make less power and use more fuel, but you've got a large safety factor when the engine is under stress. If you're going to use it, be extra careful to make sure the oil is fully up to temp before driving hard. Of course if you loose oil pressure through surge all bets are off. Personally i prefer to run a thinner oil and keep oil temps in check with a cooler, as IMO its a better overall solution for me. YMMV

my 2c; - no excessive lowering - no loud exhausts - no pods, std airbox only (or something that looks like a standard airbox) - no atmo BOVs - no bald tyres - no attitude The more stock its looks the less hassle you will have.

You only need 75% of the torque if you lube the thread to get the correct bolt tension. The shop manual will specify if you should lube it (eg it says to use engine oil on flywheel bolts) and of course it specifies the torque assuming you have done so. So 110Nm on a lubed thread produces about the same tension in the stud as 147Nm on a dry thread. I would have assumed the 110Nm was for a dry thread, but cant be bothered checking....

OP, no doubt you're realised that your question has been a troll magnet. No car gets premature wear at 110, its not a thing that happens.

IIRC there's a DIY, but all you need to do is run a new earth. The earth gets switched through the fuel pump control module, which can fail. But a direct earth may also be a waste of time if the module is correctly passing full earth when you are under load. Testing the voltage at the pump at idle is not a valid test, as the module only supplies a soft earth (ie via a resistor, so not full voltage) at that time.

Ok the resistance is supposed to be 3.5 ohms. With 1.6 you'll be pulling a lot more current so that correlates with blowing fuses. Pretty sure you'll need a new solenoid for the mag clutch.

It will be running super rich and will probably foul the plugs.

What oil is in the gearbox?

Sounds a lot like fuel pressure regulator. It changes the pressure in the fuel rail to compensate for pressure difference across the injectors - that is, boost and vacuum. So if its not working, you will get lean as you get boost and leaner the higher the boost is. Check the vac signal to the FPR. Also - you have changed the fuel filter right? E85 will clean up your fuel system and the crap it cleans up ends up in the filter. When you first run e85 you may need to change it a few extra times.

That's a little dismissive. Distance cant tell you load (force) directly, you need to take into account how stiff the loaded structure is. If the structure is flexible, the load will be low, if the structure is stiff the load will be high.

I've heard some of the chinese made rods also need checking/finishing as the tolerances can be a bit sloppy. Does that sound right?

Yes, and your head cant be able come into contact with it, in an accident situation. I have mine right down at the bottom of the A pillar, which im guessing is probably ok....

It would be helpful if you let us know what you found, so we don't just repeat what you're already read. For me this happened when the mag clutch solenoid pulled too much current. Measure the resistance of it with a mutlimeter. Off the top of my head its supposed to be 3.8ohms, but if you measure it and post back ill look it up. There's a thread on here somewhere that shows you how to wire up the condensor fan so it blows whenever the air con is on (which is a worthwhile mod even if the fan is working normally)

Nice - I wouldn't have thought a master could fail that way. Its good to be educated.

Oh - my memory was that its easy, just two bolts - the inner and outer pivots. I'll have another look. Also - i thought you would only need to rotate the upper arm if you were winding in more castor, and there would be no or very little effect from camber change.

Once i know the difference, what do i do with that info? I'm currently zero toe front and rear. I know loosing toe will make the car less inclined to turn in, but is that just a feeling at the steering wheel or does it equate to more understeer? The car is running factory castor (nismo radius rods with the wider bush) and superpro adjustable bushes. I assumed that the extra castor that's popular is what puts strain on the outer bushes on the upper arm and chews them out - is that right? Given my setup, do you think i'm likely to have problems if i swap in arms to get 4 degrees neg and make no other changes? Thanks Brad and Duncan!