MrStabby

Can you name an example?

In that case 8/6 will definitely be too stiff. Bilsteins with 6/4 will be in the ballpark. IIRC thats what SK used, but check the Group Buy thread, it should still be there. Oh and they're all "coilovers" - there's no other suspension type in skylines.

Is that a newer type of coilpack in an older style mounting bracket? I'd guess the insulation has failed and the spark has been arcing out through the top of the coilpack instead of through the spark plug.

IMO you're being too generous to them by assuming that - there's no way loctite will be as good a lubricant as engine oil, so with loctite it would require more than 466Nm. There been a number of other threads on here about this issue - search and you'll find them. They have some answers....but none easy IIRC.

Workshop manual says 446-466 Nm lubed with engine oil for RB26. FWIW lubing the thread reduces the required torque to get the correct bolt stretch by about 25%. The engine builders who stated 340nm may not be worthy of your trust.

Taking your car to Pedders is like taking a date to McDonalds...... OP - ask for a local shop suggestion in the ACT section.

My comments were based on the assumption that all parts were in good working order. There is some evidence in this thread that splitfires and OEM produce reliable spark where yellow jackets dont. Assuming we are still talking all parts in good working order, this suggests that yellow jackets produce less power at the plug than splitfires and OEMs. If that is indeed the case, then they're only suitable for stock or near stock motors. If you're chasing power you want as much power as you can get at the plug. The other issue is failure rate. Yes some new OEMs and Splitfires fail too, that's not an interesting fact. The failure rate, however, is a good indication of whether they will cause you trouble if you purchase them. Even if you can return them, its a pain in the butt. Anyways - if Trent says he has a lot of trouble with them, that's a good enough reason for me to avoid them, given the consistent high quality of Trents posts, and the fact that he will have seen many more coilpacks than others. Most posters will only have they information on a small number (probably 6) coilpacks and if you know anything about "sample size" you'll know how that can skew results.

I went from 10/8.5 down to 8.2/6.4 and they're still very stiff - too stiff with the crappy roads i use. It was a noticeable improvement tho. So - IMO 9/7 is a complete waste of time, 8/6 would be the hardest you'd want to think about changing to, though i'd guess less than 8/6 would suit you better.

That information is oversimplified - you cant state a power figure. Boost level and plug gap will affect at what power level they have problems, like any other coilpack.

I get away with Nulon Xtreme (280 degrees) - not as good as Motul (315 degrees), but a lot cheaper and easy to find. Last time i bought the Motul is was $25/500ml, Nulon was $11/500ml.

Looks like to body of that shock has been damaged

Leon did mine too - highly recommend him. OP - sounds like you're spoilt for good choices!

This has been discussed before - a number of ppl have had the same issue. IIRC the suggestion was to get it built up with weld and machine it again, but my memory could be off - search here and in Forced Induction and i'm sure you'll find some threads. Also the torque spec for the balancer bolt on RB26s is huge (?400 or 450? Nm), so im guessing these problems have occurred because some crappy mechanic hasn't tightened it enough.

IIRC Risking's race R32 GTR had standard rears when i saw it a couple of years ago. Is the need cosmetic (brembos all round)?

High school economics says that price is based on demand and supply, not the cost of production.

How much boost? Try turning the boost down 2 psi and see if it goes away. Standard R33 ecus dont like much boost.

Whoa that was easy. You can tell by how vague my explanation is that I only sort of understand this stuff. A good way to know if you really understand something is to see if you can explain it in a clear and concise manner.

This should be posted in the Wanted to Buy section. Also you might find some in For Sale.

The way to show you have the biggest e-cock, is to mount the best argument. Here's my attempt to flop it out. The current will be whatever V=IR says it is, when we complete the circuit. If we have 2 x 1 ohm resistors in series with our 14.4v power source, the current is 7.2 amps in our circuit. This means that if we look at one of the resistors in isolation, it is seeing 7.2 volts since V = 7.2 amps X 1 ohm. Now if we replace those 1 ohm resistors with 10 ohm resistors, the current is 0.72 amps, and if we again look at one of the resistors in isolation, V = 0.72 amps x 10 ohms = 7.2v again. So even though current changes significantly, we end up the same place. Resistors in series each step down the voltage, so if the voltage is the same we know that the resistance is zero by deduction. The current is a side effect during measurement. FWIW multimeters have a resistance in the megaohms, so when we're measuring the resistance of the coilpack loom, the current is tiny whether the resistance in the wire is high or low, because its in series and the meters resistance dominates. Now, since the resistance of the primary solenoid in the coil is fixed, any resistance in the wiring to the coil will increase the entire circuits resistance, since its in series, and less current will flow the the coil and the energy at the spark plug will be lower. So we want the only resistance in this circuit to be caused by the primary solenoid, so we can get the max current in the circuit and max power at the spark plug. HTH. Oh and saying "go read electrical 101" was rude, and if you're wrong after saying something like that, it makes you look like an arrogant and incompetent jerk. Perhaps a case of Dunning-Kruger effect?

Changing just rotors wouldn't make any noticeable difference. Cross drilled can crack in heavy use. In theory, slotted are better at removing the gases that the brake pads release making the surface contact better, but i cant say i can notice the difference.

When GTSBoy says keep the oil filled up, he means over the H mark on the dipstick. Many of us do to the bottom of the bump above the H mark, and never have oil starvation.

Username = toshi (unless he's changed it). You'd still want to do a dyno run after just to make sure it doesnt ping. Toshi has to make his remaps on the assumption that all the components in your car are working normally, if they're not you may find that while it wasn't a problem with the super conservative factory tune, it is a problem with the remap. Also, the remap tune can never be as good as a proper dyno tune, however, it will be way better than the factory tune.

You want to check that the voltage across the alternator terminals (battery terminals is probably a good enough substitute), is exactly the same as the voltage presented at the coils. It should be 14.x volts when the engine is running. If it is the same, there there is no sense in making any changes. If it lower, then you have a bad connection somewhere, could be the +14 side or the earth side. Also, consider that the signal aka switching side is probably fine with lower voltage - you need to make sure that the power side is the full 14.x I doubt going to a higher gauge wire will make any difference, after all, V=IR for DC. Unless there's something about the switching making things a bit ACish...

I had to roll the rear guards (only) for 9in +20 wearing 255s with RT615s. Fed SSes were ok - remember different 255 tyres will have slightly different treadwidths. To to get the same level of clearance to the guards as that in a 10 you'd have to be running about +32. R34 GTR rims are 9in +30s so tons of room between tyre and guard. OP - do you mean max offset (as in smaller track, wheels toward the center of the car), or minimum offset (wider track, wheels closer to the outside of the car)?

"Redline" make more that one product, so you need to talk about which Redline product to have a useful discussion. Getrags use a completely different type of lubricant (its ATF) to the R32/R33 5 speeds (regular gear oil). Its been mentioned here before many times, so search.