MrStabby

Its hard to understand what you're written. I'll try to state the key info - let me know if this is correct. - second hand -5 turbos fitted to rb26 - coolant lines not connected - oil lines and drains connected - engine run for 10 minutes - oil spraying out both compressor outlets

I got my tune at the same place you got the 345kw tune (which is a highly regarded shop). FWIW i have 305kw @ 17 psi with -7s, but I asked for a safe & responsive tune (and i'm very happy with it). No-one cares about putting up dyno sheets with the shop name on them. You should ask the shop why its laggier - might be something as simple as cam timing giving you more power futher up the rev range has traded off response, or perhaps it was pinging so they backed off the timing. Also ask them if they think you have -7s (do you KNOW they are -7s or is that what a previous owner told you?).

345kw from -7s probably means a happy dyno. Were both dyno runs at the same shop? Can you post the dyno readout? What was the rationale for going to Adaptronic over PowerFC ? Seems like an odd thing to do from a bang for buck standpoint.... Can you PM the name of the shop?

Found out its running Penrite syth 5W-30.

Didnt see any smoke at all. Didnt sound like lifters to me (my RB26 has a little lifter noise and its different), but i cant be sure. Didnt check the oil, but he said the oil is changed every 5K with full synthetic.

I just test drove a nice NM35 and the engine ran powerfully and smoothly, but to me it sounded a bit like a modern diesel motor when idling after cold start. The owner said its always been like that and that it goes away once warm, which seemed to be right. Am i being paranoid because i'm unfamiliar with the way the motor should sound or should i get it looked at? Car has 135,000 kms.

I went to take a look at a C34 and its pretty bad. Is this typical? Do M35s have rust issues?

The old 32/33 N1 wheels are laggy, so no-one really bothers with them. Get new -7s, or -9s with new actuators, or Hypergear like Scotty suggests.

3in catback is too small. Disconnect the cat back and do another dyno run to see how it goes.. Also, decats are only for the sort of people who throw garbage in the street.... ie the anti-social FWIW the Nismoid rule of thumb for exhaust sizing is; 3in for 300kw 3.5in for 350kw 4in for 400kw

R33 and R34 GTR seats bolt in, so very easy to change over.

+11ty. Do them all - no question. I used Nissan hoses. Some silicon are good, some are crap, to me they seem a little more prone to leaking.

If you're getting black smoke from det. would you be able to hear it?

Also need exhaust details. You should have minimum 3.5in with metallic matrix cat. Take a look at the RB26 sticky to see what you should be getting - something is seriously wrong with your result. Injectors might run out of puff if they're not clean.

Black smoke = rich tune, Blue/white smoke = oil burning. What AFR it is running at WOT?

More like: -7s 320kw -9s 330kw -5s 360kw+

If you put on a small single the engine will spool very quickly buy make very little power (much less than stock). There is no free lunch, whether single or twins you trade off spool for power. If you wanted max spool out of an RB26 you would get the stock turbos rebuild with steel wheels and get about 280kw.

If you buy good oil to start with the manufacturer will have added the right amount of each additive to be optimal already.

Whoa guy - why so defensive? If you haven't tried the coilpacks back to back yourself, why are you so strongly convinced there is no difference?

I cant imagine anything other than tanks off and a good rodding will work.... but radiators dont seem to made to have easily removable tanks these days. Someone posted this http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TEFBA-WATER-FILTER-PLUS-MAGNET-/140624180916?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bddab6b4 I think i might invest in one.

I thought R34s were still CONSULT. Post of photo of the plug.

Truth been spoken.

The sensor points at a slotted wheel which you can see when you look down the hole. The bearings will be behind seals so i think you'd just make a mess if you pour lube down there.

I like to take a bit of material off the ribbing on the starter motor bump to get a little more room. After that its just some brutality to get it in. Are the clutch plate splines aligned?

How important is it to rehone when replacing rings? Is it mandatory because the seal will be hopeless without a new ring to new hone bed in? Or can new rings bed in without a fresh hone?

Usually coolant systems on cars have a "sacrificial anode" part that is designed to corrode. I suspect the insert is the sacrificial bit, and if that's the case you should be able to buy the insert separately from Nissan. Chrome moly seems like a bad choice as im pretty sure its less reactive than cast iron, so it cant perform the sacrificial anode function. On older cars i've had the sacrificial anode is the thermostat housing.