MrStabby

Do any new rods require prepping? or is the quality out of the factory good enough? IIRC a number of years back one builder said the quality control of some of the chinese stuff wasnt good enough and they need some prepping. Also, given your point about RPM, doesnt that also imply that rod and piston weight will have a great effect on the stresses and therefore on bearing crush?

Count me in!

Nah it doesnt use 3G at all for timing, you just need a good GPS signal, and the one in the phone isnt great. Probably would be best to fix the phone under the windscreen somehow. It also uses a lot of power, so take a charger. I use the tomtom cradle, since i use the phone for satnav as well, and it works really well with that since its got a built in GPS and supplies power from the cig lighter socket. BlackT - re: racechrono - i used to have that on a nokia phone years ago, and its worked well with an external bluetooth GPS. Let me know if you need to borrow the GPS, its a 5khz unit that was recommended by the racechrono guys back then.

Its the only racing you'll be doing now that you're skyline-less. +1 For Harrys Lap Timer. Best time was 46.13 last Fatz day, but i now have R888s instead of RSRs, a tensioned strut brace and an extra degree of neg camber on the front, so should be faster.

Thanks for that. It looks like that stuff came from http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/g35-how-to-reset-ecu-throttle-pedal-release-idle-air-volume-learning.html but the m35stagea.info link doesn't include the Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure and Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedure, which are steps 1 and 2. From the link they're; Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning Procedure 1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. 3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. 4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds. 5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning Procedures 1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released. 2. Turn ignition switch to “ON”. 3. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds. Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. The Accelerator pedal position procedure is a superset of the Throttle Valve Closed procedure, so I reckon there's no need to run the Throttle Valve Closed procedure separately, since you've actually just done it as part of the Accelerate pedal position procedure.

Idle is 950. Is it supposed to be 650? Sometimes when the engine is cold it will rev up and down a bit before it settles upon starting. It seems to be a specific sequence like the ECU is trying something. My OBD2 scanner cant read the M35, and from a quick google it seems like thats common. Does the ECU have an LED flashing status output feature? I'd like to see what the ECU thinks before trying random stuff like simply changing the o2 sensor and/or MAF.

Thanks for the the link - ill definitely give that a shot if the other one doesnt work.

Agree that Nismo AFMs with standard ECU is a problem. Are you still making boost? Has the cat shit itself? (drop it off the front pipe an look in)

FYI, i'm going to try this out: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/140969224914?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I also dont know much, certainly way less than Jez. Maybe a dwell issue not giving the coilpacks enough time to charge?

There's no way to tell over the internet. A rule of thumb is just that. The cat and mufflers are the most restrictive bits after the turbine, if you have a cat and muffler(s) that flow very well, you might see no difference like Marko. Ask your tuner.

I bought an NM35, read the Info thread, and made notes. Also added a few tidbits I found. UPDATE: Added more info from pages 1 to 9 of this thread Engine The V35 & M35 airboxes have the same part number. They are, Back of airbox 16526, front of airbox 16528, + filter required. The K&N filter that fits is 33-2031-2. Air filter is Ryco A360 (same as all skylines, 350Z Z33 Series 1, some commodores and many other cars) Air filter change interval: 20,000-30,000kms Spark plugs NI22401-5M016…..they are also $24.15 each OR NI22401-AQ816 (or Denso Iridiums Part #IKH22) (or Denso IKH22) Uses 5L of oil. Change interval is 5,000kms. Engine requires 4.8L to the H mark, 4.0L to the L mark Oil spec: SJ, 0W-20 all the way to 15W-50 depending on usage Oil filter is Ryco Z436 or Z445 : Nismo (Veruspeed) 15208-RN010 : K&N: HP-1008 : Amsoil Ea012 z445 - seal diameter 63mm, height - 65mm, seam diameter - 68mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm z436 - seal diameter 64mm, height - 66mm, seam diameter - 69.50mm, thread size - M20-x1.5-6Hmm Oil filter is same as VQ35 and SR engines Oil pressure sensor / switch: FAE SW9021 12555 ~$35 (same as 370Z, however, typically not listed as compatible but has correct thread and plug, and doesnt throw CEL) Belts are the same as 350z; Air con - 4PK950, Power steering/fan/alternator - 6PK1180 Belts are 4PK945 or 4PK0950 and 6PK1180 (NOTE: the digit before the PK is the number of ribs on the belt, PK means automotive cross-section, and the number after the PK is the length in mm) Standard turbo is a Garrett M24N and is a ball bearing unit with ceramic exhaust wheel Factory boost is 12-12.8psi AFM is same as T30 Xtrail OBD2 plug is a small black panel at the lowest point of dash on the drivers side, to the left of the steering wheel. The plug is attached to the panel and it drops down when you open the release on the side. Xtool A30M ~$300 (and many other Xtool products) will read many M35 systems, including ECU, ABS, airbag, gearbox, 4WD. See https://www.xtooltech.com/english/FunctionQuery.html for function support details. etc 350z alternator is a direct replacement for the vq25det. 350z alternator is slightly larger, has slightly different mounts, the plug is different and the positive connection is in a different location. It would be very difficult or impossible to fit. NM35 part number is 23100-AM610 (MrStabby got it rebuilt for $260. Ebay from the US ~$350 delivered). The VQ35 starter sort of fits, it's larger and probably more powerful than the little VQ25 unit. The power lead is on a different angle and gets close to the hot side cooler pipe VQ motor overheating fix DIY http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/460250-your-vq35-overheating/ M35 fan clutch fix DIY: https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/473606-m35-refill-hydraulic-fan-clutch/ Battery: Century NS40ZL (330 CCA) or NS40ZLX (premium, 390 CCA), NRMA/RAC 2384/2047/3053 Suspension and Brakes Rear sway bar links (~$50) right 54668-EG03A (replaces 54618-AL510), left 54668-EG03B (replaces 54668-AL510). The newer parts appear stronger. Front rotors and pads are the same as 350z touring/V35 Skyline/current Maxima Rear rotors and pads are the same as the 350z touring/V35 Skyline/X-trail The rear pads & rotors for the 350z or v35 will not fit without modification Rda do nice semi metallic brake pads (~$30 per end), MUCH better than standard, not dusty Rda front; RDB1232SM (Listed as Maxima front pad) Rda rear; RDB1509SM (Listed as X-Trail rear pad) Shocks are KYB 350z premiums and at NZ$225 ea. they are a bargain Pretty sure v35/g35 front strut bar will fit m35 Camber/toe kit is same as g35/350z BRAKE MOD: The M35 ecu limits the throttle to 30% when the brake is applied and for approximately 3 seconds after its release. Cutting the brake signal to the ecu disables this but it will eventually throw a fault code unless you find some way to trick it. (connect it up temporarily when you don't need throttle.) Most just run a switch and tap the brake as they flick it, only needs to be done occasionally. The kick panel ecu is for the trans, the ecu is behind the glove box. Mod is to cut the pink/blue strip wire on the ECU. Drivetrain Gearbox is RE5R05A Gearbox fluid: Nissan matic J (or Nissan matic S, or Nulon synthetic (compatible with nissan C/D/J/K, $16.60perL) or Valvoline synthetic (compatible with nissan D/J/K, $10perL)) Auto trans fluid change interval: 60,000kms Diff oil change interval: 60,000kms Diffs require 1.4L each, and factory weight is 80W-90. Syncro = 50/50 split up to 40 kmp/h then it goes back to normal. Snow = 50/50 split up to 40kmp/h but starts in 2nd gear and reduces boost. “ATTESA E-TS system is normally 0:100, but can split up to 50:50. SYNC mode is constant 20:80, but can also do 50:50. SNOW mode appears to be 50:50, but hard to tell, but it does NOT start in 2nd gear. Im guessing that there is a boost limit. ATF 'D' is reccomended, 1.8L is required to fill the system.” Action Dans auto service [[http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/424256-auto-service-questions/ (not Stagea) Part Numbers Xenon headlight globe: D2R type, Phillips 85126C1 std 4200K, about $75 each. The Xenon is the top bulb, the bottom bulb is a regular H4. Oil temperature sender: 22630-44B20 (same as Navara so available locally ~$73) Lid Weatherstrip (Rear Sunroof Rubber): 91246-AQ020 $77.00 + GST = $84.70 Duct Air (Power Duct add-on for standard M35 air box): 16555-AM604 $163.00 + GST = $179.30 Centre Cover (Front Axle Plastic Guard): 75881-AQ060 $84.00 + GST = $92.40 Passenger side cam cover gasket: 13270-AL612 Drivers side cam cover gasket: 13270-AQ800 Fuel Flap Snub Rubbers: 78837-AG000 (The little rubber buttons that hold the fuel flap flush with the rear quarter panel) Fuel tank O-ring: 17342-01A00 Fuel filter strainer: 16400-4M405 (Hornsby Nissan price; $38.70 in 2015) Rear wiper arm: 28781-AQ010 direct from Nissan for $55 Rear wiper blade assembly: AY003-H25AR Cabin pollen filter: 27277-4M400 or Ryco RCA113P (but: There's also a Ryco with a C at the end of the p/n which designates it as an activated carbon/charcoal filter, this is the correct replacement for the factory one) Upper radiator hose: 21501-AL5000 or Gates 22967 or Mackay CH4966 Lower radiator hose: 21503-CD000 or Gates 22968 or Mackay CH4962 or CH4960 Front brake pads: DB1485 or Project Mu F209 Front brake rotors: DBA954 Rear brake pads: DB1509 or Project Mu R209 Rear brake rotors: DBA574 KYB front shocks: NSF9420R + NSF9420L (right and left sides) KYB rear shocks: 2 x NSF2069 Water pipe (~350mm long, scarificial anode of cooling system, so will corrode): 21021-AQ802 Price; $64.56 usd. O-ring: 21049-AE000 Price; $1.10 usd. Front indicator globe: T20 21W Starter Motor: 23300-AL600 ($375 @ synergymotorports, $330 ebay) Starter Motor Brush kit: 23378-EN20A (also used in Australian model starters so readily available) Turbo replacement gasket set: 14401-AQ826 Turbo to dump gasket: 14445-4P200 Turbo to dump gasket: 14415-4P200 (1) $41.61 each Turbo intercooler piping outlet gasket: 14465-4P200 (1) $5.22 Oil return line gasket: 15196-73L00 (1) $2.97 each Eye bolt gasket: 15189-01P00 (4) $3.48 each Turbo drain washer: 11026-01M02 (4) $1.91 each VQ25DET valve stem seals: 13207-84A00 (Looks like same as vq35, so there are aftermarket options available out of the US) Belts: AY140-61175 and AY14N-4094E Torque Convertor / front pump assembly auto trans seal: 31375-44X02 (Symptom, oil coming from between gearbox and transmission) Front wheel bearing (AWD): NI-40210-AL800 (same as J32 maxima) Found to be incorrect. The correct CBC part number is NJ137KIT and should be available at any bearing shop. Front hub assembly (AWD): NI-40202-24U00 (same as J32 maxima) NM35 Radiator Filling Thought I'd put this Radiator fill guide in here; seems like there's a fair bit of stress in doing this job, and that in turn scares people away from doing relatively simple jobs. Stolen from V-Series forum; http://www.skylinesa...iunum-radiator/ Well done Nate, hopefully this de-mystifies the procedure a little and the post title will hopefully make it easy to find. Yeah over heating can be a pain when u dont get all the air out, so get it done right the first time. Here is what you have to do for a correct V35/350GT/G35 coolant flush with no air bubbles (my post on g35driver)Well i got it, ended up doing this, which should be done from step 1: Wait till car is cooled down Jack up front or park on step incline remove rear bleed valve from heater hose remove rad drain plug with bucket under it remove rad cap remove and wash out overflow ONCE DRAINED Put rad drain plug back in put bleed plug back in put over flow container back in get a long funnel or water bottle or non spill funnel and put tape about 1” from the tip of funnel or on the thread of the bottle until its thick enough to fit snug in the rad neck with car off fill the overflow to minimum. with car off slowly poor mixture into funnel wedged in rad with your premixed mixture (i used distilled and water wetter) Once you see it no longer draining from the funnel grab the lower rad hose and compress and let go a few times and see if anymore drains out, top it up if it all goes Start the car and slowly keep at least a bit of fluid so that the funnel is at no point completely empty As you see it no longer draining and staying where it is rev car to 1500-2000 for 30sec and then let idle. Repeat a few times As soon as you see fluid rise up the funnel and overflow container full turn car OFF Let rest of the fluid drain, if none is left very slowly poor more in until you cant fit any more in. You should put rad cap back on, start car again and turn fans on with A/C off and temp as high as it can go and fans on high Make sure you can feel hot air, that means coolant is circulating and passing hot air out, cold air = air bubble = slightly opening the bleed valve and letting air out until just water comes out. one you confirm hot air and/or no air from bleed valve turn car OFF If jacked up put it down and go for a drive, if all good then put under tray back on! Keep and eye on overflow tank for next week and make sure its at minimum

Have a mate who has just reinstalled the A12 4 cylinder carbied motor in an old ute. The starter runs, turns the motor slowly and makes a lot of tapping noise. So far we have tried jump starting the car, and changed the starter to a new one - no difference either time. AFAICT the starter cant be miss-aligned since its like an rb in that there's no adjustment or options. Ring gear on the flywheel is like new. Any ideas?

Yeah that's what i meant. I dont know how difficult it is to pull the input shaft out of the gearbox. I've noticed some twin plate kits now come with a plastic aligning tool.

Keep looking or just take it to a shop to get a smoke test. Since you can hear air escaping i'd say its probably not a blown turbo.

No. There's nothing holding them on, but they can get firmly stuck. Usually there are two threaded holes in the rotor that you can run bolts through - when they get to bottom of the hole in the rotor they hit the hub and then as your turn more they push the rotor off the hub. Sort of an integrated puller.

Ok see you then.

Hi Terry, Thanks very much for the offer, I will take you up on it. I'm intrigued by the gadget! Let me know what time suits. You could text me on Friday afternoon to fit in best with your work schedule if you like. Hi Artz, Yeah i saw another post about steam cleaning - will look into that, exp since its already clean just needs a spore nuking.

I'm keeping an eye out for one, but so far its been dry. In the meantime i need to de stink it.

I have bought a Stagea that smells pretty badly of mould but the carpets, seats etc all seem to be clean, dry and free of mould. I've tried to Glen20 the interior (its kills mould) but its not made much difference. What else should i try? Or should i just get the interior shampood by a detailer? Any recommendations for a detailer in Sydney?

Hmm i dont remember having that problem. Double check for anything fouling. Can you post up a photo? There might be a DIY on it, so check that section. Otherwise search the forced induction section.

Search the forced induction performance section - should be some answers there. Maybe also google PCV systems to get an idea about how they're supposed to work.

Ask whoever tunes the car what they want you to use.

Whenever you change injectors or AFM you have to change the settings of your programmable ECU. You then get a touch up tune, because its highly unlikely to be spot on.

Since the way they spin has changed, I'd be worried that perhaps there were ok when you put them on, but have since been damaged somehow. And given that, i'd be worried about putting on a new set and damaging them as well. GTScotT has said that the coolant is not critical, so it sounds like there's some other issue with the installation. I would be checking the oil delivery to the turbos to verify its at a sensible flowrate and pressure. CRD did this on my motor after it lunched a highflow, which they replaced with -7s.