MrStabby

Yeah seems like rear gearbox seal to me too. First thing is check & top up the gearbox oil.....

Is the car lowered? If so you'll need to get some adjustable bushes or arms to give your aligner more to play with. Whiteline should have something for you.

I'm on -7s with stock AFMs, 550cc injectors and making 305kw at 17psi. Clean stock injectors might get you up to 280kw, but its not worth cleaning them now, just go for new ones. You'll prob get a set of injectors for ~$600. Nismo AFMs bolt in and will be ~$700-800, but might not be worth it unless you want to push past 300kws. FWIW you can tune past the AFMs measurement range, but then the ECU has to make its decisions somewhat blinded, so cant properly compensate for differences in conditions.

Fit looks good from the photo. Also, what he ^ said.

I run a single set of rotors and do next to nothing about bedding pads in either way, street to track or track to street. When track pads are cold they work in "abrasive" mode, so swapping them in before you drive to the track gives them a little time to clean up the rotors of the street pad's material, so they're ready for track work. I don't bother cleaning the rotors before swapping back to street... whatev, its just not a problem. Remsas (like QFM HPX) are a street pad, so they're not up to track work. Minimum track pad should be A1RMs (which are a crossover street/track pad). Also, Nulon Xtreme Performance Super DOT 4 is a cheap fluid, good for 280 deg C. If you need something higher temp than that it will probably be double the price.

You wont be able to change injectors to anything other than stock, with your non-programmable ECU. If you do want to go away from the stocker injectors, fit a Nistune to your ecu.

AFAIK they usually rate stuff by internal diameter not external diameter, so the pipe wall thickness will be skewing your results. Your cat looks like the problem with those 2.5in pipes. If its not already a metal matrix 100 or 200 cell one, around 4inch core, you'll probably get good results from a change there.

I got the same story from everyone I talked to, so ended up getting a second hander that fortunately worked.

I guess you meant R32 and R33 GTRs? If so, thats pretty obvious and therefore not so interesting. IMO what is more interesting would be comparing an R32GTR+attessa tweaker to an R33GTR without a tweaker. I'm assuming that the change in front/rear bias as the system evolved is a much more significant affect than things like the ECUs sample/clock rates. It is an assumption tho. Would be interesting to KNOW. Bang for buck and ease of installation the tweaker will be miles ahead.

Re: N1 water pump - i didnt notice any difference when i swapped the N1 back to stock, but yeah they're designed to work better at higher revs, so wont be as effective at lower revs.. Also, many people do cam belt+tensioner+idler+water pump all that the same time, and i suggest you do that if you're due for a belt change, otherwise forget it. Agree what everyone else has said, especially that you should swap the -5s for -7/-9s for your goal.

You can get hose pinchers (dont know if that's the right name) from supercheap etc. They're a little clamp with rubber legs. Would be useful for the lines to the carbon canister mentioned above. Ie vac hoses

For me, i'd want to have some evidence it will make a non-trivial improvement over a tweaked standard system for the effort to be worth it. But you may just want to satisfy your curiosity and try it!

I just ended up getting the cheapo ebay attessa tweaker, and it worked so well i just left it at that. The plugs are different on the attessa units, so its more than just a simple brain swap. No idea how much more.

I used Redline 75W-90 in my rear diff, and the leftover shockproof light in the front diff. 75W-90 would also be fine in the front diff. Really any full synth, LSD compatible oil of the right viscosity will be fine. For gear oils, the improvement of synth over mineral is even more pronounced than in engine oils. Synth gear oil should be good for 300,000 kms, but if you use shockproof in the gearbox, check the level every 20,000ks. Some people have found it foams up and they loose a bit out the breather.

Can you post a pic? Off the top of my head i cant see why a short shifter would use a shorter boot. If anything i would have thought a taller boot since the pivot point is higher.

Some dude in a store (so take the info with a grain of salt) told me that light shock will make the LSD plates grip more, so it will sort of be like running a tighter diff. Sounds credible to me given the way light shock behaves with synchos. No idea if its true, or how significant the effect may be. EDIT: IIRC front diff is open, so no effect there.

Read my post again. You didn't understand it. I'm probably not be explaining it well, but until you understand where you went wrong, youre destined to make the same catastrophic mistake again. Angular rotation makes NO difference. All angles give you the same configuration. Think radially. Its not left and right or up and down - its inside (central) and outside (peripheral). Look at the base of an oil filter.

If you havent driven a puc clutch before, and need to use the car in traffic, i'd guess you probably wont like those ones. Also, saying NPC clutch is meaningless since NPC sell more than one type of clutch. You need to be more specific about WHICH NPC clutch. NPC can sell you a puc clutch similar to those ones you linked, and you probably wont like them either. An NPC 10 inch organic will be like driving a stocker and good for 300kw, but probably would last long if you like to launch.

The NPC 10 is a very streetable option (great in traffic, pedal almost as light as stock) but probably wont like abuse (launches). You should find out the characteristics of the rebuild, and see if it matches your driving style. Do some research on the reputation of the rebuilder too.

+1 adjustable rear sway bar is definitely the first thing to do. Second would be front tyres, unless they've got some meat on them and you want to get some value out of them. KU36s should be ok, but not as grippy as RSRs.

If you plumb the waste gate in, you're pushing more gas down the exhaust, so it will always increase back pressure, even if the merge is perfect. If the exhaust is properly sized the increase will be negligible. If its too small, it will be significant.

Did you use the same plug type at the same gap? If there's more gap then you've made it harder for the coils to make the spark, and it will make any ignition related missfire worse. What gap are you running now?

Generally, one goes to the fuel tank (that one's labelled tank ), one takes a vacuum signal from the manifold (to open a valve and allow the fumes in the canister to be pulled into the engine when the manifold is in vacuum) and one is the vent from the canister that gets opened by the valve. I'm not sure which one out of purge and air is which of those. Maybe try googling charcoal canister connections or charcoal canister vent.

Yep that's what i was trying to say. Oh you're a pull clutch - i'm not really familiar with those.

http://www.nismo.com.au/