MrStabby

Really? Slamming on the brakes as 100+ is a realistic situation to come across when driving, and should be safe in any car. Your engineer's got no stones brah.

adam@proxy ~ $ host -t mx gay.minister.nsw.gov.au gay.minister.nsw.gov.au mail is handled by 10 mg1.servicefirst.nsw.gov.au. gay.minister.nsw.gov.au mail is handled by 20 mg2.servicefirst.nsw.gov.au. adam@proxy ~ $ tl:dr its a real domain that's DNS is setup to identify mail servers adam@proxy ~ $ host -t mx top bloke.minister.nsw.gov.au Host top bloke.minister.nsw.gov.au not found: 3(NXDOMAIN) So that's not a real domain...

The way i see it the diagrams labelled Correct and Incorrect are showing the same thing - I think you might be misinterpreting one of them. The way the pipes connect to the block is not top and bottom, its center and "outside". And yes i've heard of cases where oil cooler/remote filter kits have killed engines because they're plumbed backwards.

IIRC the aftermarket flywheel i bought (after getting rid of a twin plate) was pretty much flat. Also i think if there's extra meet where the clutch plate sits (ie the pressure plate is slightly recessed, it would make the take up point higher if anything. Is the throw out bearing pressed all the way onto the carrier? Seems weird that there's no change with the adjustment. That doesn't sound right.

Worn pads dont make much difference unless you're all the way through to metal, and if that's the case you'll hear it. Is your ABS broken? (Any pulsing in the brake pedal?) They shouldn't ever lock up. The BNR32 is only a 3 channel ABS so if either rear locks up it should pulse.

Mock up of the original ducts that run from the front lip (they were missing on my car when i bought it) and UAS deflectors on the radius rods. Nismo used to make a similar sort of thing. EDIT: They're UAS deflectors in MagicMikes pix ^

That's an interesting question with an obvious answer....

Put this into google: coolant hose kit site:www.skylinesaustralia.com

There's been quite a few threads on this - should turn up if you search. Excellent idea to replace all the hoses! You'd be crazy not to

Black smoke = running rich, which will happen a bit because the standard tune is quite rich, especially if you have wound the boost up. It will also run very rich if you have an air leak and youre boosting (or at least the turbos are attempting to boost). You wont make much power if you have any decent sized air leak. Usually this sort of stuff is not that serious. White/blue smoke = oil burning, this is usually more serious. Can be from oil leaking past turbo seals, or past valve stem seals or past piston rings. So, first couple of things; - Check engine oil level - Look for air leaks. Could be a split intercooler hose (one of mine just did this) or loose connection. Probably not a hose coming off because you would typically get a bit of a pop when it comes off, but still check for it. - If you make no boost at all (ie it goes from vacuum to 0 but not past it) you have an air leak or blown turbo. Its pretty much always the rear turbo that blows. If the turbo has blown you will see ceramic turbine bits trapped in front of the cat, so you could drop it to check for that. It just looks like bits of rock. - After that, a compression test may be worthwhile

Support bracket is accessed from under car. Yes you take the turbo and dump out still bolted together. Yes front pipe it two bolts to each dump = 4 bolts total (actually they're studs and you remove the nuts). From what i can remember any time you think you'll be able to avoid taking stuff off and still get the turbo out, you're wrong. Or to put it another way, anything you think may need to come off, will need to come off

Unless you do a Toshi style EEPROM burn.

If comp9s are good enough you should hit him up for a price - hes an SAU trader now. SPECIFICATIONS Formulation - Temperature © HPX - 0-550 Performance Street A1RM - 0-780 Street/Light Track Comp 9 - 0-800 Dedicated Track Brembo Calipers HPX - From $119 per axle set front or rear A1RM - From $149 per axle set front or rear Comp - From $229 per axle set front or rear I must be too soft on my pads. I had greens in an old porsche at Wakefield and didnt have any problems with them....

Yep ebay noname radiator hose lasted about 2 years for me. IIRC Beer Baron used to recommend the Samco brand if you're going for silicon, but i find silicon hoses are more leak prone than rubber. Rubber just seems to grip better and therefore provide a better seal. OEM only for me for coolant hoses now.

A1RMs are $180 from GSL Rallysport. They work well for me with the 330mm kit on my 300kw 32 GTR. I'd guess they'd be fine with the 356 kit unless you're running big power (400kw+) FWIW EBC yellows are not a bad pad, seem roughly similar to A1RMs but a lot more expensive. Duncan - have you tried the A1RMs?

Every twin plate i've seen has an integrated plate cage and flywheel, so you cant use the stock flywheel even if you want to.

I was under the impression P platers couldnt drive modified cars. Engine swap = modification.

The people suggesting that you dont worry about it have not mentioned the downsides. Piggaz did, so IMO his post is the most useful in this thread. If you're not sure if you can be bothered fitting one, do some research on what BOVs do, then you can decide if its worth it or not.

When i did my turbos i just used the nissan install kit, with all the gaskets/crush washers etc. I dont think you'll find them at bunnings, maybe try an Enzed or Pirtek.

+1, so you shouldnt use that as an indicator that its ready to be driven hard. You want the oil temp to be normal before you do that, and it takes a lot longer.

You dont need to take the reinforcement bar off. Its not difficult to take the front bar off, just figure it out as you go. You do have to pull the indicators out to get the plastic fastener underneath. No need to unplug them tho.

The old design was prone to cracking when pushed. It makes no sense to try to get the flawed design now that its been superceeded with a better design.

You should post in the Wanted to Buy section, or just PM Fatz....

Resistance across the primary coil will tell you if the primary coil is stuffed. If it is, then bin the coilpack. It cannot definitively show that the whole coilpack is good, as there could be problems with the secondary coil, or the core or the insulation. Also some coilpacks work ok cold but fallover with temperature, so even a bench test wont be 100% accurate.

If its failing master or slave, you'll probably notice the clutch take up point is near the floor. Anyways its always a good idea to change all the fluids when you buy a second hand car. For the gearbox get a full synth oil of the right viscosity and you wont need to change it again for the life of the car (it should be good for 300,000+ kms).