MrStabby

I only run 2 degrees neg camber at the front, and dont want to run more permanently as the car is mostly street. I use r spec at the track so i'd like to run more like 4 degrees on track days - would it be feasible to just swap upper control arms, or would that also effect toe? (or something else?)

But you can see it spool faster sub 4000rpm, so must be more to it than turning the max boost up, right?

The female partner to that plug is there in the picture (but its black so hard to see) - that's how OP knew where to plug it. It sounds like there's a wiring fault so the previous owner of your car just disconnected the plug rather than fix the fault. You could follow the wires if you're really keen to see where it goes, but seeing as how you're not missing anything it would be a lot of work just to satisfy your curiosity.

Depends on how you drive, and if you do any track days. If you want a pad that can cope with a track day but not be too much for the street QFM A1RMs are great and cheap. If you're street only, then something milder than and A1RM should have better grip cold, and be kinder to the rotors. I've used EBC greens and they were great, but these days i'd probably try QFM HPX or the Remsas (See trader GSL Rallysport for both - also he can recommend a pad based on your usage).

If the adjuster is not already at the limit of the adjustment, yes. What do you have currently? If only a single side is a long way out there could be some damage. FWIW the more you lower the car the more neg camber you get, so since the standard adjusters have very little travel you need to be adding something adjustable if its much different from stock height. Yeah - take it too a good shop even if there's nothing left on the adjuster you will find out what you need to do next.

My theory for normal gearbox/diff is: buy good oil and it will already have right additives at the right concentrations, potentially including moly di. So putting more additive in will either have no effect, or can actually have a negative effect (but i don't know if moly di is one where it has a negative effect if you have a higher than optimal concentration). With a quality synthetic gear oil, you should never need to change the oil for the life of the gearbox. However, it sounds like you're looking for a way of putting off a rebuild on a worn out part for a while, sort of like using lightweight shockproof in a gearbox with sloppy synchos. Here's something i googled: Causes of Noise The rear differential consists of many gears with their teeth entwined in each other. With so many moving parts, the precision with which they are arranged and oriented, matters a lot. If the lubricant levels of the differential lubrication mechanism have gone down or if the arrangement of the pinion and rest of the gears is messed up, then rear differential noise occurs. When the ring gear or the pinion is not adjusted properly, then the contact between the gear teeth is improper and causes friction. In case the noise is ignored, friction will play its role and damage the ring and pinion permanently and lead to major car repairs. The humming noise will get slowly converted to a growling sound over time, resulting into large-scale damage. Sometimes, people confuse this with tire noise and ignore it. However, the subtle difference between the two can be identified, as tire noise varies with the kind of surface you are driving on, but rear differential noise doesn't change. Also, the noise occurs, only when the car is taking a turn. In some cases, the noise may even be caused while driving straight and accentuated during acceleration. Thus, differential noise can be produced, due to drop in lubricant levels or improper gear adjustments. It is not recommended that you open up the rear differential mechanism and try fixing it on your own, as it is a complex job. Rear differential repair is best left to professionals. Car problems like these, need to dealt with immediately. So, if you experience differential noise at any point of time, the best thing to do is take your car to an automobile servicing center and get it checked as soon as possible. The car mechanics can make a better differential noise diagnosis. After about every 60,000 miles of running, it's essential that you get the differential and the entire drive train inspected for problems. Regular maintenance can solve such problems in advance. Mostly, a boosting up of lubricant levels or a slight adjustment in the rear differential will take care of the noise. If you are delayed in dealing with the problem, then you may require a replacement of the entire mechanism.

No it wasnt, but judging by the reactions i'm way off. What's a realistic figure?

All aboard, next stop, wasteland.

Rated at the flywheel, right? So maybe 340-350 at the wheels?

If the stock rods are still good, just prep and re-use them. They're good for way more than N1s can make. IIRC Paul Diemar was using them in his drag car at ~440awkw.

So when you say "forgies" mean forged pistons right? What about the rods? Ballpark guess for the rods maybe 280kw. Did you get the receipt for the motor build?

Using new parts is not evidence of a good build. Bad engine builders also use new parts. He may be great engine builder, or the opposite, but if you cant mount an explanation of why you believe he's good, you're just some guy on the Internet saying stuff.

He's here too. Good to deal with.His username is JDM Obsession....

What did you do to asses the quality of the build? How many other engine builders do you have experience with?

Do the rails even unbolt from the seat? When i had my seats out it didn't look like they could be taken off, but i didnt check closely.

He says the Remsas are between the HPX and the A1RMs, so i'd assume the recommendation would/should be in place of HPXs.

You could part it out....

I think you mean "no added TECHNICAL benefit". Of course, there could be a non-obvious technical benefit that i'm missing, or a non-technical benefit. This post from SydneyKid is probably the most insightful (and what originally alerted me to the issue - was good to read it again): http://www.skylinesa...ost__p__4744778

Not sure about that - at the rear the radius rod is an upper arm at about 45 degrees to the upper control arm so if your adding length to the upper arm, you will also have to add some length (but less) to the radius rod. I'm just thinking aloud tho.

On the GTR i dont recall having any problems doing up the D bracket on whileline adjustables. If the bolts aren't turning easily with the bracket that loose, then there's something wrong. I would take the bar off and run the bolts all the way into the holes to check they're free and easy all the way.

Many go for splitfires for reliability - not because of a perceived performance limit. If you're not going with OEM or splitfires, then I suggest you buy from someone local, so its easy to swap if any of them are defective.

I have noltec upper arms, but i think they went out of business. I think UAS make upper arms, or you can get whiteline adjustable bushes for the stock arms. For the rear cradle you could use alloy pineapples instead of the replacing the bushes (are they leaking?) but that will bring some NVH. You would also try whileline poly pineappels to firm it up a bit. The cradle mounts are an epic job apparently - need to be pressed out. Dont forget to check the radius rod bushes. I got some superpro adjustables through JDM obsession.

Drilled rotors can crack, but if they're not cracked now and have plenty of meat left in them you may as well use them again. IIRC the rotors are 32mm wide new and 30mm is the wear limit. I never machine rotors at a pad change unless there's a problem with them.

Yes. Definitely get the hydraulics sorted first as this problem may go away. Check the gearbox oil level anyway tho. Strongly recommend you do both master and slave at the same time. If ones dying the other will be ready to go as well. Masters can leak out the back and drip down the booster (tho IIRC gtst doesnt have a booster) so i guess it would leak down the firewall in that case.

The radiator can have many of the tubes blocked, so water still flows through but its not cooled effectively. Some radiator shops will pull the end tanks off and push rods through the tubes to clear them out. Justjap have decent radiators for around $300 new.