MrStabby

Alternator should be 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm.

Nismo is easy to get. They have two types - the expensive one is a proper short shifter (25%), the cheap one you barely notice (10%).

+1 buy new. Given the cost to install I don't think a second hand clutch is ever really worth it. And if you cant verify if it is truely 80% left, assume it isn't. Have you driven an ceramic clutch before? Happy to have that in a daily?

A new thrust bearing should come with the clutch kit.

IMO: 8/6 is track, 6/4 is street. I live with 8/6 but on bad roads its a bit shit. WRT the amount of adjustments whether 30 or 33 makes no difference. Some of these cheapo coilovers the adjusters do bugger all anyways according to the shock dyno, in that many of the adjustment positions are the same level of dampening. Ie, its ricey. +1 to BC's with rubber mount top.

What spring rate are you going for?

How do you know if the nissan one is better than ryco?

I have the factory nissan oil/coolant heat exchanger in place, and an HKS kit with filter relocator. Re: coolant, the gauge gets to the gauge midpoint quickly - but remember what moodles said about that.

There's a thread on the actuator arm issue - called something like "always blowing hot air". Search McSearchy.

Mine sits at 70 when warm, always. I use that as the "its ok to go hard now" mark, as you know the motor is properly up to temp (unlike the water temp gauge). On track days i saw it go as high as 110 before i got an oil cooler.

Agree with everything Moodles says, but would add; They do tend to leak, and its not much work, I'd probably do this. I'm guessing this is the idler and/or tensioner stud. You'll be replacing the idler and tensioner when you do the belt. Some have had their studs snap, but i'm guessing those studs may have been mistreated in some way, eg. overtightened. Probably wouldnt worry about replacing the stud. CRD used iridiums on my 300kw engine with their tune. No problems, lasted well. 600 is 315 celsius. Nulon Xtreme performance is rated to 280 celsius, and far cheaper. Been ok for me at track days.

Was ALL the fluid changed? Might be worth a long bleed and top up with the high temp fluid. There may be old fluid in the system still.

POQ123 appears to be from NZ so the info may not be useful. I would assume platform adjustable means height adjustable.

No reason to suspect compression at this early stage. As Jez said "U say inj are 800 but had to set them at 1200, this tells me the k const and latency is incorrect." So - when you changed the injector sizing in Nistune did you also correct the latency setting on the new injectors? IMO you should set Nistune to the correct injector size and try to get it running by playing with latency. If you can't find the latency specification for your new injectors, then just try increasing the latency which will make it richer at idle (assume you believe it to be too lean at idle - which would be my first guess).

Not a good comparison. 26s typically respond well to cam gears, 25s typically do not.

Ok - lets summarise for OP. Sell the GTR cooler and buy a kit that bolts in without having to hack the body. Of course, you can still be defected, but its an ok compromise for most people.

Depends if you consider paying the insurance company for cover while not meeting their terms and conditions "insured" or not.

Sure. Everyone's free to decide how they behave, but its better if the decision is made when the consequences are understood.

I dont agree with that. While there are issues with treadwear as a measure, its still a useful ballpark indicator across brands. Here's some numbers i just made up; <40 = slicks 60-100 = r spec 140-200 = s spec 200-300 = street tyres 300+ = long life street tyres not much grip As a gross generallisation, low treadwear is associated with good grip and short life, and high treadwear is associated with long life and poor grip.

So, treadwear 360, old, and Ziex are known to be crap (not surprising at treadwear 360!). Strong evidence your problem is that the tyres have no grip.

This. You'd have to get it engineered, which would involve reinforcing around the holes. So even if you got the intercooler for free, it would still be very expensive.

At what age do unused r specs become not worth buying? Just for track days - nothing compeditive.

FYI, Mick doesnt know if the FZ201s will fit and has not agreed to take them back if they dont. Thats not good enough for me so I will go for something else.

I've fitted one to my R32 GTR which has R34 GTR seats. Fits perfectly. Nice bit of kit Joe

You don't want the softest setting, you want the right setting. If its too soft, it wont control the spring action properly. Try setting it in the middle of the range and drive that way for a couple of weeks, or as long as it takes until you get the feel of it. Then from there try making it harder or softer, but give yourself some time to acclimatise too it. On some shocks with 30 levels it has been found a lot of the settings do nothing... I would try at 15 first, get used to it, then try 10 or 20 or whatever depending on how you think it feels.