MrStabby

No much easier. Only Vspecs came with Brembos on 32s - all the others used sumitomos.

I've use greenstuff at the track and they were ok.... so no, reds definitely shouldn't fall apart with street work. Photos? Also, i use QFM pads now, much better value for money. Check out the trader GSL Rallysport.

To me "stock" implies standard, so I would call these MAFs "modified" rather than "stock". Also, just because a MAF runs out of resolution doesn't mean you cant make power above that level, it just means you're doing so with a great deal more risk as the ECU is only basing the maps on RPM, rather than load and RPM.

Are you sure that's not just the paint? I'd be taking it back to bare metal for a proper look.

I reckon a high temp sealant would work fine for that sort of join. If there's a o ring i'd imagine it will be "underneath" in a groove.

If its leaking there it will be an air leak, not a fuel leak.

CRD are selling the "JUN" motor for $39K.... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/411225-for-sale-gtr-r32-race-engine/

Giggity! Agree about the load on the bolt - its just a pivot so has next to no strain along its length, its all shear. @GTSboy - good call - i might be able to space it out so its all shank.

+1. Also, to quote Clarkson "[On the Enzo Ferrari] “I rang up Jay Kay, who’s got one, and said: “Can we borrow yours?” and he said, “Yeah, if I can borrow your daughter, because it amounts to the same thing.”"

It was an allen key head high tensile bolt, and snapped through the thread. There is some shear loading on the thread, so it makes sense if it were to break that it would break there. Brittle fracture. I'm assuming its not the factory part. For a replacement I'd like to get something tougher, that is, more ductile and less brittle. Would simply moving to lower grade bolt achieve that? I don't see how you could get the shear loading onto the shank unless the bolt shank was perfect length. Too short and it will get shear loading, too long and the nut will bottom out.

I'm looking for a rechargeable impact wrench - mostly for wheel nuts as i already have a highish torque air powered torque wrench. I'm thinking of this one, but DeWalt is probably overkill for my needs - but its a good price for quality - $359 with two batteries and charger. Any other suggestions? Spending a bit less is always good. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DEWALT-18v-Cordless-H-Duty-1-2-Drive-Impact-Wrench-Combo-Kit-3Yr-AusWide-Wrnty-/290683597207?pt=AU_Power_Tools&hash=item43ae17b197

Can you use new rings without honing the bores?

Could be the magnetic clutch solenoid insulation crapping out. Use a multimeter to check its resistance. The spec is 3.5 ohms If its much less than that it will pull too much current and blow the fuse.

Not sure if magman does refinishing, but he does do straightening. Craved on this forum does refinishing (Craved Coatings). Many SAUers have used him and he does great work. But hes at Penrith.

Lying about not knowing can get you in trouble too, i'd be more inclined to say "no comment". But since this sounds like a serious matter, OP's mate should get a lawyer.

What's your source for the voltage spec? Mine is the 32 GTR service manual. Is it different for other models?

You know "manifold pressure" is boost, right? So yes, its on stock boost, and power is probably about what you'd expect. If you're buying and you're unsure, get a pre-purchase inspection.

Id leave the tray off for a bit, clean/degrease anything dirty to help u see where its coming from. The rear main seal is where the crank comes out the back of the motor, and youll typically change it when u do a clutch so id assume its never been changed on your motor. Of course that doesnt mean yours it leaking.

Sorry - read your post too quickly and thought you had splitfires already. I would go OEM if they're cheaper than splitfires.

Have you verified theres a problem with the coilpacks? If its an assumption, start with plugs first because there a lot cheaper and you already have good coilpacks. What gap are u running? More boost means smaller gap.

You may need a smaller spark plug gap now that you're making more power. Pull the plugs, measure the gap and check the condition. If they're still in good nick, try closing the gap a bit and go for a run. If they're old get a new set and install with a smaller gap. Try closing them 0.2mm over what they are now. So if they're currently at the 1.1 standard, try 0.9.

Its gearbox out to do the rear main, so yeah big enough.

The 32 titania sensor is smaller, so usually the dumps have the larger 33/34 sized zirconia sensor hole, and an adaptor for the 32 sensor. On the xforce splits I bought using the adapter would have only just held the sensor tip into the exhaust flow, and I was concerned they wouldn't work. I had an exhaust shop cut the 33/34 bung off and weld the 32 adapter in to the sensor protruded into the exhaust like they do on the stock dumps.

There's downsides to too much neg camber - are you happy to live with them? IMO basing alignment settings on looks or to address rubbing is sacrilege, but each to his own. I prefer to go fast than look pretty (also, i'm never going to look pretty so its not like i have a lot of choice)

Looks like the 123s are S spec style. I'd imagine the Federal 595RSRs would be a fair bit grippier than the 123s (treadwear 140 IIRC). R888s are R spec, so in a different class.