MrStabby

Do you get a specific amount of sessions with an instructor? Any formality to ensure instructors are evenly shared amongst participants? Since there's 12 cars/session and 4 instructors you'd average an instructor once every 3 sessions, so you should get two instructed sessions per day but it would be easy enough to miss out if its not structured.

Make sure you budget for adjustable bushes if you're going to lower it, otherwise you wont be able to get a decent alignment out of it. Also, don't go too low if you want it to still handle... Swap those rims and enjoy it for a bit!

I checked your printout - sorry i cant add anything more with my limited knowledge. AFAICT its looks reasonable. Ask in the Vic forum what suspension place is recommended in your area. I've never got the service I was looking for in a chain like Pedders or Bob Jane.

The Nismo on my car; N1 motor Radius rods "Solid" shifter (10% shorter) Radiator cap All excellent quality stuff!

I've got an HKS and there's no drain point on my kit. I don't bother draining it, just use good full synth oil every 5000kms. So, it uses the same fill amount as a standard oil change.

Nothing comes to mind for me. Photo? Sound recording?

Wider tyres do tend to tramline more, and you can reduce that tendency by adding more toe in at the front. However, this will also reduce the eagerness to turn in, and it may understeer a bit more, so its a compromise. I believe adding more castor will also help, and AFAIK there's no real downside to that. So; 1. Check the castor is optimal 2. Add some toe in (or set it to zero if you currently have toe out). Personally i prefer to put up with a bit of tramlining to get the turn in benefits. +1 for alignment specs

Hi Jon - yep all 4 wheels off the ground - 300mm was a rough guess because i didn't measure at the time. - normal trolley jack because its all i have - i just used it to get the box to the ground then just slid it across the floor a bit to make some room. There's probably an ideal height for the car - too high and the arm of the trolley jack wont reach the gearbox, too low and you wont be able the get the box out of the road. Shouldnt be a big deal if you get it wrong, you just have adjust the stand heights and try again. - Blocks of wood or even bricks can help a lot when you're moving things about - even just as something for the box to fall onto if it slips - not sure what you're asking about clearance between box and car - do you mean when the gearbox is on the floor? - no other photos Dont worry too much. The gtst box is smaller and lighter. You could slide it off the jack onto a old bit of carpet or a collapsed box and slide it along the floor to get it out.

-5s are a horrible choice for what you've said, as they're much laggier than -7/-9s -7s = 320kw -9s = 330kw -5s = 370kw Response for -7s and -9s is about the same, -9s are ~$400 more expensive once you take actuators into account. They all bolt on.

Please do a search, this has been discussed many times. Short answer: No. Try to get her an exemption - no idea if thats possible tho.

How do the valves and valve seats look?

AFAIK a shift kit makes the gear change quicker (and rougher) and this reduces wear. Use synthetic ATF - its much tougher than non-synthetic. Break down of the ATF (particularly due to high temperature) is a big problem. ATF handles high temperature much better. A trans fluid cooler will be worthwhile if you're cooking the fluid. The stall converter mod is to make it stall (ie lock up) at a higher rpm. This will suit a more laggy turbo as it will help get it on boost.

In Forced Induction Performance http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/

You're not making the power you can with -5s, should be more like 500hp with those on a good setup. What boost are you running? Might need to just wind it up and retune. Check the sticky to see what others are getting with -5s.

Pretty sure he can take you to court, but based on what you've said there's no way he'll win. Its probably not worth discussing it with him either because you may accidentally say something that harms your case. Its unlikely he's stupid enough to take it to court, and he's just trying to get money out of you. Just say the motor was running fine when you sold it and you have nothing more to say. If required, let him know he cant harass you with the phone (Telecommunications Act). "Improper use of telecommunications services "85ZE. A person shall not knowingly or recklessly: (a) use a telecommunications service supplied by a carrier to menace or harass another person; or (b) use a telecommunications service supplied by a carrier in such a way as would be regarded by reasonable persons as being, in all the circumstances, offensive. Penalty: Imprisonment for 1 year."

Thermodynamics. Higher boost pressure = more heat.

Entry sent and payment made. Hopefully i can scrape in...

Nice work man, looks like it we be a great car by the time you're finished with it!

The other smaller board that is also mounted on the case is the knock detection stuff IIRC. The nistune just mounts in the EEPROM socket.

That's just an EEPROM - Nistune is a daughtercard. My car came with a jap tune on EEPROM. Nistune is much easier to update the tune on, and a lot more tuners will do Nistunes. It also uses the same socket as that EEPROM (the stock chip is soldered onto the board) so no soldering required if you go that way.

Oh sorry - didnt read your post properly. I'll try what you suggest next time i'm in the car.

Sounds like you have a problem that's not related to the quality of the pump, and i'm guessing you'll break whatever pump you put in. Hopefully there are some engine builders reading this who can offer advice. If not, seek them out. I cant see there's any reason to think a different pump will last much longer - you'll be throwing money down the toilet...

Its brake, not break Take a look at this SAU trader - he's good to deal with: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/217-sau-trader-gsl-rallysport-promotions/

Its hard to read, but WIPER is the 20A fifth from the left, top row, MIRROR/REAR WIPER is 10A third from the right, top row. I got this sticker from ebay.

That part looks like it is supposed to corrode - that is - be the "sacrificial anode" in the electric circuit created by the coolant. In older cars i've worked on the thermostat housing typically performed this function. If you want to understand why, google galvanic corrosion. tl:dr - only use the replacement Nissan part so that the head and/or block dont start corroding.