MrStabby

Good plan. No-name silicon hoses cant be trusted.

IIRC is just tight for space (no shit huh? . stubby ratchet ring spanner. I did plenum off (which is much more work) to all the little hoses when i got a leak there.

+1. Its only a GTST box, GTR is bigger and heavier and can be done single handed on the garage floor... Was getting lazy and thinking of just paying to have it done last time and someone here said you become more of a man every time you do a gearbox, so I grunted a few times and peer pressure did the rest. Also did a write up - check siggy.

Agreed - mine also starts to surge at around a quarter tank. Sard pump with all the stock mounting stuff. Jez needs to corner faster The sudden loss of all power is a give away - no wideband required.

Lol at coppermix for this application... If you cant think of anything better to do with the $1K+ there's something wrong with you. Two words: Beer, Hookers

I cant remember, wasnt expensive at all. It would be cheaper than getting the part from Nissan, and you wont have to wait for it to come from Japan. On my hose I could see the blister in it, i guess you cant be as sure that hose is the problem because of that loose cover hose over the top.

300kw NPC organic is something like $600 IIRC.

Maybe you should tell us what problem you're having (that you're hoping to fix by upgrading the ATTESSA) and we can offer some suggestions on the best way to fix that problem. Most people find that the system doesn't send enough power to the front when cornering, and that's easily fixed by attenuating the lateral g sensor signal with an external controller. There are a number on the market. I got the cheapo ebay one, and it works wonders.

On my BNR32 that hose started to leak, so i removed it and had Enzed make up a new rubber section and fit it to the metal tube section. Was a bitch to remove.... FWIW im using Transmax Z (synthetic) fluid without issue.

I'm just searching for possibilities as to why the improvement is small. I would have expected more, and larger runner ID is the only explanation I could come up with. Are your ports stock or bigger? Are you talking cross section area? Makes sense to have port and runner IDs the same, so fair call on your choice of size. Given what you've said above, its probably only worth the effort if the stock runners have about the same cross sectional area as the 1". For experimentation, could you work in mild steel to make fab easier?

+1, and the reason this is being suggested is that the rear main seal (rear of block to crankshaft) can leak engine oil out at the bellhousing.

Dont try to get it off with a half inch drive breaker bar and extension pole - you will break the breaker bar. BTDT. Got a shop with a 3/4 drive rattle gun to move it.

The N13 Pulsar my cousins had used to do that. Never heard of skylines doing it tho. Also, skylines have a pressure switch such that if there is not enough gas pressure in the system, it wont throw the magnetic clutch to engage the compressor. OP - since it doesnt work, assume the compressor is stuffed pay the price you think the car is worth less the cost to supply and fit a new compressor, regas etc. $2000 seems reasonable once you include all the stuffing around.

They are things of beauty, but perhaps you compromised low end response by using a larger runner ID? I'm thinking these may be more suited to a much higher than 350kw setup. Its all about fluid momentum...

Check engine and gearbox oil levels before staring it again, then post recording of noise. Try running the engine for while, say 5 mins, without putting it in gear to see if you can get the noise to come in neutral. If there's no noise in that time, its probably not engine.

Anecdotally both are correct. 500hp ATW seems to be about the level at which people strip 3rd gear. So generally, if you keep it under 500hp it should be fairly reliable, if you're going for much more than that budget in a gearset to keep it reliable.

I'm using the 300kw NPC organic, on a 305kw GTR, but i'm gentle on clutches. Very happy with it, as its easy to use in heavy traffic. My previous 240kw rated clutch handled 305 without slipping, but when the throw out bearing died it was a good opportunity to put something more suitable in.

Good call. OP should check what the alternator is putting out. If its in the usual 14-14.8 volt range, then turn everything off (ie remove key), pull earth off the battery and connect earth to the battery negative via a multimeter in current mode. This will tell you how much current is being pulled with everything off. IIRC mine was about 20 milliamps. If its a lot more than that, pull fuses one a time and see if the reading drops. AFAIK VL alternators are 85 amp.

Yep, they do great work.

PM sent. If anyone knows of a good shop anywhere near Hornsby please make a suggestion, because I dont know of any in that area. There's a couple of just ok ones in the Hills district but I wouldn't go as far as to recommend them.

+1, my bullshit detector went off. Get it towed to a skyline specialist, and add your city to your profile so we can suggest some options. Also; - If the rear turbo was dead, it would have made no boost. It is possible that the rear turbo let go while the mechanic had it, but that's not the mechanics fault. Sometimes when the rear turbo goes it kills the motor. - suggesting an R25 rebuild for a GTR is retarded - dont trust the kms on the speedo - its almost certainly not accurate, but you've got almost no chance of proving that its been done or who did it - Please PM me the name of this workshop (you can't post it publicly on this forum).

I checked the cable and yeah you're right, the earth for the ignitor comes from coilpack loom. I has assumed that pin was presenting earth to the coilpacks... Cheers

Does anyone one if the output earth pin on the ignitor should be connected to the heatsink/body? Since there is only 6 input pins, I cant see any other way it would reach earth.

My GTR is 8.2 fr 6.4 rr and also a little too stiff for street. I reckon 8/6 for track, 6/4 for street is probably a sensible starting point.