MrStabby

Run a search on cleaned throttle bodies, iirc one of the big japanese shops offer a sealer to repair it with. Maybe tomei?

Short shifters reduce the distance that you move the shifter, as they change the pivot height (so less leaveage). Seems a bit odd to be considering one, when you're not sure what it does...?? Anyways Nismo have two types, one that's around $250 with offers 10% reduction in throw, and one that's about $600 that offers 25% reduction. The 10% one is barely short, it just sort of tightens up the feel a bit. The 25% you'll really notice the throw is shorter and stiffer.

All NSW pink slips are electronic now, so once you've got the pink slip you can do it all over the Internet.

You can still be covered by Dawes Underwriting (which used to trade as Famous, not sure what the relationship is now). Not declaring mods is fraud, personally, i wouldn't go there. If you cant afford to do it properly, then you cant afford to do it.

Thanks for taking the time to write that up

So, from a theoretical point of view, would you say that splits should spool better (ie consider what happens when the gate is shut, so the interference of the merge is not a problem yet)? I used to know something about fluid dynamics, but that was a long time ago and i've forgotten it all....

The benefit of having the separator attached with fasteners, is that you can take it off so the dump is also compatible with housings where the whole turbine outlet runs all the way to the mating surface. More recent turbos are more likely to have the turbine outlet separated all the way to the mating surface, as its a more efficient shape for the gas flow. I think "shite" is really overstating things, i'd say "doesnt work as effectively". But IMO, should still work a little better than bellmouth.

Just check if theres a small metal box on top of the coilpack cover near the firewall, or post a photo

Nope :-) Agreed. My guess is machining wheels from billet is just a low volume production method, so would be good for prototyping. discopotato would know....

Yep and age, and its pretty much always the rear that goes. I'm guessing that's either to due to the plenum pushing a bit more air into #6, or the PCV venting to the rear turbo, or both. My ceramic turbine broke off flush with the housing, so yeah its all ceramic.

How did you go with the pictures? $1400?

Just follow the hard line from the slave and you cant miss it.

Yeah I dont reckon that will work. IIRC the dampener box has a bleeder, but you really want to bleed at the highest point, because that's where the air will be. I replaced my master a while back, but cant remember what i did about bleeding....(but its ok). So first step bleed the box and see if that helps (it should, IIRC it does trap air there).

Where did you bleed it from? If its just from the slave, then that I dont think it will be effective. Actually, i cant really see the point of a bleeder on the slave....

Disagree - what you have still sounds like its not fully disengaged. My guess is there's still air in hydraulic system. I'm told it can be a bitch to bleed the clutch hydraulics, especially the "dampener box", or whatever its called.

Yeah, or more offset. Don't buy wheels that don't fit then try to stop them rubbing by running a butt load of neg camber up front. That would be horrible, and i'm guessing you'll hate it.

Cheap silicon hoses leak, and i had an ebay one fail after about 12 months. Back to Nissan OEM now and no problems.

IIRC external ignitor is S1 motor, integrated ignitor is S2 motor, so what does your coilpack cover look like next to the firewall?

And you may compromise power down. If you're not oversteering in corners, then you dont want more camber at the back. Since GTRs are nose heavy you usually have to try to get more camber at the front to help dial that out. I had to get adjustable bushes at the rear to reduce the neg camber that came with lowering, as it was too much. I also needed adjustable upper arms on the front to get more, but the 32 has different front suspension to the 34, so no idea about what you'll need (bushes or arm, depends how far you lower). Just don't go too low, or it'll suck

Actually tire width is quite complicated. The 245 number does NOT tell you that what the "tread width" is, that is, how much rubber is on the road. You have to look that up from the specs of the tyre, using the 245/40/18 type number as key. Not all manufacturers publish it. Tread width is probably the best dimension to use if you're worried about clearance at its at the periphery where you're going to get rubbing. For example, when i changed tyres to Falken RT-615s (S spec, more track friendly than regular street tyres) i got rubbing at the rear because the Falkens had a wider tread width than the previous tyres, despite both being 255/40/17s. Google it.

Unfortunately the current shockproof breathes a bit - check your gearbox oil level every 10,000kms or so.

Your usual suspects should be nengun, greenline, rhdjapan.

IMO changing the oil pump is not justified cost/benefit wise, since, as stated, its an engine out job. Just don't hit the limiter and replace the harmonic balancer if its stuffed. I'd be more inclined to change the turbos, but then again, my oil pump hasn't failed and my turbos have... Other than that just the normal stuff, so fluids, cam belt (and the associated idler and tensioner) if its anywhere near due (or if you dont know).

I thought all had double synchros on 1st and 2nd, and the R33 series 3 box also had doubles on third and forth.

Same - i bought 550 seimens from them - no problems