MrStabby

There was an RB26 AFM fix in the DIY section - basically some of the soldered joints go dry, so you just reheat the solder to make it "take" again. You pop a cap off the compartment where the plug is, and check the pins that run from the plug to the PCB. You should be able to see dry solder joints with magnifying glass, or just re-do all of them anyway. No idea if the VQ AFMs are similar, and of course it could be some other problem.

I also recall it being mentioned at the JLM night, but my recollection was that it had to do with RTA retardedness rather than anything more sinister.

Any idea of the make of the clutch? He's lucky his feet are still attached to his legs.

I dont know gtst plenums and the gtr ones use studs. First I would take the plenum off and check the bolt length since you mentioned that. To me, bottomed out bolts feel a bit "springy" when they get tight since you're flexing the entire length of the bolt. Measure the width of the plenum then gently turn the bolts into the head without the plenum in place to check the exposed shaft is shorter than the plenum width. Don't get excited about the exposed shaft! (yes folks, i'm here all week) If the bolt length is good, then you need to check the mating surfaces are perfectly flat. Its very unlikely the head wont be flat unless there some external damage to it, so concentrate on the manifold. Since yours is already stuffed, i'd get a good second hander and start there (still check it for flatness). A straight edge (aka metal ruler) is usually what you'd use to check for flatness.

Consider the expression "Dont buy other people's problems". Ignore the kms when considering it because they're regularly dodged, and there's always a story around why its so low. Buy based on condition, and by the looks of it that thing is a high kms pile of crap. So only buy if its really cheap and you want a fixer upper/something to restore. If you want something to just get in and drive, get something else.

OP - just keep driving. With a safe tune and enough good oil that motor should last. Make sure the oil is never below the high mark, and if you track it, fill it up to the bottom of the top bump on the dipstick (IIRC about an extra litre). I have a 1990 and have tracked it plenty of times with no issue. The only fix i'm aware of in later 32s is the longer oil pump drive on the crank. There is a clear error in the design of the early cranks, but if you have a working harmonic balancer and dont limiter bash, it should last. I dont know of any design changes to fix oil starvation in the rb26's life.

Unlike many, i like EBC pads, but I cant see any reason to pay for them since the QFM is just as good and a lot cheaper. If you do any track work, get at least A1RMs. Or check out GSL Rallysports trader forum for pad options.

This. Unplug old loom and ignitor. Plug in new loom. Sell old ignitor. (89CAL - is the ECU side ignitor plug & pinout the same as the S2 loom plug? Or is there a little custom wiring required?)

I was doing around 300 a tank (city) with a 1400 idle in N, and burnt transmission fluid. After an idle reset and transmission fluid change i got 450kms (country) out of 3/4 of a tank so looks on track for the 600kms per tank (country) you NM35 guys are getting. Will be interesting to see what i get city. IMO anyone using more than a ?W-40 oil on a stock or near stock motor is needlessly wasting fuel. I'm currently running a full synth 5W-40. I will try a ?W-30 next change (tho one of the guys here (maybe Scotty NM35?) said that some engines are noisy with 30).

So there's no rough running, no loss of power or any other symptoms? Sounds like an electrical connection dropping out. Does it ever fail when driving over a sharp bump or pothole? I'd run a couple of wires connected with the fuel pump contacts with an LED or some other bulb temporarily to the dash to see if power to the fuel pump is the issue. Or maybe just check it with a multimeter when ever its dropped out and wont start. Skylines have a fuel pump control module that reduces power to the fuel pump at idle, via a "soft" earth, which makes the earth connection via a resistor. After having two fail in my 32 GTR I just ran a direct earth to bypass it entirely. Many guys also do that with aftermarket fuel pumps which want to see the full 14v at all times. The stalling issue wont be the o2 sensors. Fix the stalling first then see what happens with economy. No sense in complicating the troubleshooting.

You are saying the force produced by the spring can't be referred to as "spring force" - I disagree. Force/mm is not a sensible term, you should say either force/distance or if you're expressing it in units, use units both sides, eg. Newtons/mm. This property is known as the spring constant (or rate, or spring rate). I agree that spring constant is not adjustable. OP - try increasing the preload a bit more, and see how it performs. If its sucks, get something else. If its one of those $20-30 boost controllers then removing the spring and ball makes it a very expensive bit of pipe....

There's a sweet little thing called logic; Sending power to the front when your rears are slipping = sensible, since your rear wheels are slipping... Sending power to the front when you're accelerating hard = sensible, since your rears maybe be about to break traction because your accelerating hard Sending power to the front when you're cruising at speed = no apparent benefit, so why do it? They don't do it, except for the preload. They noticed that the R32 system didnt react as quickly as they'd like, so its a bit of a hack to reduce latency. You dont see pre-load on the gauge tho, because its so close to zero. FWIW, i've never noticed the torque gauge being non zero when cruising.

Thats the opposite of my understanding. The gate operation is a fight between the spring and diaphram. Increasing preload has the effect of increasing the force developed by the spring. The force that the diaphram produces depends on the boost. So if the spring force goes up, you need more boost to open the gate.

R32 = no preload R33/34 = preload No? OP - it should only send power to the front under heavy acceleration or slip. You're probably wearing it out driving it like that.

Not sure about red powder - i just dropped the fluid not the pan. Is the plug magnetic? Is the red powder metallic? I'm trying to NOT mod the stag since its the daily. The GTR is for that stuff. Would you recommend the shift kit and brake mod for all use modes? Edit: PN - yep i'm in Sydney. Sounds like the shift kit is just better for any use type - right? I probably wont worry about the cooler tho since full synth fluid handles high temps so much better than non-syth stuff, and I wont be driving the stag too hard.

FYI - got the idle procedure to work - now idles at just over 600, and is completely smooth. Much better. Hopefully ill get more than ~300kms a tank now.... If not, ill swap the o2 sensor(s). ECU code was 0000. Transmission fluid looked fine on the dipstick so i had thought it was probably ok, but when I dropped it, it was brown (not too dark) and stunk terribly. The transmission sump plug was completely clean, but ill do the transmission fluid again after say 500kms since its only 4 out of 10 litres from the sump each time.

I'd postpone the highflow until you're completely confident you've addressed the current issue. Remember even if the compression test comes back ok, you still have a problem to fix. Also, dont forget you may need injectors/AFM/programmable ECU and tune = $$$$

Oh - I read some posts on other forums where cleaning the throttle body helped get the idle reset to work. I'll pull it apart and have a look, but i'll be much more cautious after what you've said. Will the check engine light be on in normal driving if i have an error? I sprayed aerostart on a few hose ends but didnt get any flaring, so couldn't find a leak that way. There is vacuum at idle, so if there's a leak its not huge. For me attessa = transfer case, so that's in the list. Might do power steering fluid while im at it. PN-MAD - I went through "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning" and "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" first - is that what u mean or is ECU reset different?

I'm giving the stag some love this weekend - will be cleaning throttle body (idle reset procedure didnt work, idles at 1400 in N), doing fluids in transmission, attessa and diffs. Do the diffs require LSD fluid?

If by wrong, you mean illegal, then you should only hold that belief if you've read up on the terms and conditions associated with the use of the permit. If you have not educated yourself in that manner, then your belief is merely based on how you would like things to be, or how you imagine them to be. Ignorance of the law is no excuse, so if you have inadvertently used the permit illegally, then you'll probably have to cop the fine and chalk it up to a learning experience.

Yep - I couldn't notice any difference to A1RMs (that is, they both worked fine with my setup) just a lot more expensive than A1RMs.

It will state what materials the cleaner is safe with. The one i have is safe on plastic.

Rear suspension arms on skylines are mounted to a rigid subframe and resist all the lateral force. Strut braces mount to the body of the car, not the subframe, and therefore do bugger all. Front is different as the upper arm mounts onto the body. Ask for a recommended suspension shop in your state subforum and let them check it out.

HPX cant handle track work, same thing happened to a mate of mine. Definitely street only. A1RMs are a street/track crossover, so probably in the same category as DS2500s and will be far better.

Ok, so you're alternator was stuffed and you've fixed that. If you're not seeing the full battery voltage at other places, that either means there's another component in the circuit that's using power (so you're measuring at the wrong point), or you have a bad connection. If you're using the car less than once a month think about leaving it on a trickle charger. FWIW the factory spec is to have 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm.