MrStabby

Consensus is that R888s suck on GTRs, but are ok for light cars. I have R888s at the moment, after using Fed RSRs. Although there was some months in between the last RSR session and the first R888 session, they dont seem that much different (and they should be since S spec to R spec)

Dont take advice from anyone who says a cold air intake will cure flames and overheating! Take it to a real mechanic

Your best bet for Stagea info is the Stagea forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/82-stagea-discussion/

Many people believe in running thick oils, so i'm probably in the minority. I run Mobil 0W-40 in my cars.

That's a big call when you dont know what camber its running. But yeah, if the car has been lowered its probably running too much neg camber, in which case some raising and/or extra adjustability will be required.

Wont be the oil. Nothing to worry about (other than there's no reason to run an oil that thick!) yeah its just condensation mixed with the soot in the exhaust.

Here's mine. Its about 165mm center to center, which was for 3deg neg camber at about 635 ride height (too low, one of the reasons its apart atm) Oh and as the series 1 arms are clearly not "fit for purpose" Pelican should swap you to series 2 for no cost! Re: the length - urrr.... remeasure?

Oil filter might be ruptured. Take it off and have a look. I would find and fix the oil leak first, then see how it runs, and only bother with compression and leak down tests if its making weird noises or down on power. Dipstick out can be either; 1. Someone didnt push it in all the way 2. Perished rubber not tight enough to hold it in 3. Stuck PCV valve 4. Excessive blowby (and here's where the compression/leak down are useful)

Resistance of what? Injectors?

Dude, they have the gasket mark on the flanges.... Just because they may have been sold to you as new, doesn't mean they are actually new.

I got Heasmans to do it last time, wanted to do it myself this time. They will be doing the alignment, so maybe i'll just get them to do it again depending on what Jetwreck says.

No special tools required. Having a tighter diff should help get the power down. If i were you, i'd check the level and top up if necessary. Then just drive it for a few weeks so you can get used to it, then decide if you like it or not. It might grow on you.

What do you mean by the ohms are all over the place? What are you measuring?

If so, can i borrow/rent/come to yours to setup the GTR? I should have the suspension back together in a week or two. Edit: s/Sydeny/Sydney/

Yeah, cheap tyres, including a lot of the chinese stuff (ling long, nankang etc) are horrible even with tread. OP check out what tyres you have, and what pressure they're running and post back.

There's always two plugs. One right at the bottom to drain it, and one around half way up to fill. Its best to open the filler first, because its a bummer if you open drain and drop the oil then find the filler is stuck... Anyways, when you fill it you keep going until the level is up to the filler. I just keep pumping still it starts leaking out. If you can, open the filler and put your finger in to see if its right up to the filler level. If not you can get $20 hand pumps from supercheap etc. Its a bit crude, but you can just use a half inch drive without a socket to open it if its not too tight. Or post up in your state's forum and see if anyone will check it for you - its a 5 minute job. With the different driving - the oil could potentially make the LSD tighter or looser, but im not sure which would make the car drive the way you describe.

Analysis of Valvoline Syn Power 5W-40 below. OCI was 5500kms. I found out from the manual that the factory OCI is 5000kms not 10000kms. Interesting points are; - High silicon - my guess is that this is due to the horrible old air filter that was in the car when i bought it. Will check again to see if this has come back to normal next change - The oil has sheared down to a 30 weight. Not a particular problem in itself since there is no abnormal wear, and Nissan speced down to a 0W-20 for the motor. However, all the info i see here and on BITOG is that VQ motors are tough on oil. The loss of viscosity supports that, however, I dont know how shear stable SynPower is. FYI the published viscosity for SynPower is 13.9, after 5500kms its at 11.9. - TBN is still really high at 9.1, most are happy to run down to about 1 before condemning the oil. This is an indicator of additive level. Additives get used up in use.

Doh - sorry i mean standard sizes as in what lengths would they make in a spring that I could use in place of the ones i've got. Eg.since i have 200mm, will they make 220 240 260 etc or is it just whatever that particular manufacturer decides to make?

I'm replacing my current coils with a softer rate, and I need more ride hight so ill get longer as well. My coils are; ~195mm free height ~72mm ID at the perch ~98mm ID at the top What are the standard sizes? I'm guessing they were originally 200mm and have sagged a bit, but what are the next steps up in terms of length? The perches were wound up to their full height (threads have 60mm of travel), and the car was still 10mm too low, so i need a compressed length of 40 mm longer, to get the adjuster in the middle, so the free length will need to be longer again. Also - anywhere recommended to buy them, or will I just get Heasmans to order them in for me.

Unless you're running R spec tyres that's too much neg camber. Have you lowered the car a lot? (that will bring more neg camber). SydneyKid used to say that 350mm wheel centerline to top of the guard is as low as you can go on the front and still get a reasonable result. That required two sets of the whiteline adjustable bushes (one for the inner pivot, one for the outer pivot) on the stock upper control arm. For the rear dont go below 340mm. The front should always be 10mm higher that the rear. Fronts guards need to open out more to provider clearance for the turning wheels - its not that the car is dragging its bum. Remember pillow ball aka rose join stuff is probably not legal, and wont last as long as bushed stuff, so unless its a dedicated race car, is a better option IMO. Just jap may have some hardrace arms that are supposed to be ok if you want to take that road.

Yep, and Ryco even do a filter that fits NM35s (RCA113P). Unfortunately there's no cabin filter listed for R34s here; http://www.rycofilters.com.au/catalogue/application/make/nissan/model/SKYLINE/series/R34 But Ryco dont even have Stageas in their catalogue - they list the RCA113P against the Pulsar. Maybe there is something that will fit the 34.

If the plugs are still in then its normal - compression stroke as Sean says. You're compressing air so it becomes harder to turn. If the plugs are out, then it should be pretty constant resistance to turning.

Could be head gasket. Check for bubbles in the coolant when the engine is running.