MrStabby

Yeah if you're handy its really pretty easy to rebuild callipers. There's probably youtube videos on how to do it - watch a few of them first.

Agree with the above. The leaking from the joint is uncommon. Typically you just do the piston seals during a rebuild as the other stuff doesnt tend to fail, and its better not to disturb it if you dont have too. Of course in this case you would have to split the calliper and replace those seals too. Tightening the bolts may help a little as a bandaid, but since the pistons stuffed too you really need to give it some more attention

The idea behind a BOV is to stop the build up of pressure between a recently closed throttle and spinning compressor, since that pressure would cause the compressor to slow down, and cause lag when the throttle is reopened. So Simon is seeing the opposite of what its supposed to achieve. +1 to Lith on bad setup and lower turbo life without BOV

No to fuel reg - you wont get anywhere near to maxing out 550s. They're an ugly hack anyway. Edit: FYI the rule of thumb for 6 cylinder engines is 1 flywheel HP per cc of injector size, so 550cc injectors means ~550HP.

Agree with all above. Start and drive normally until oil is up to temp, then go nuts. Leaving a cold motor idling is counter-productive.

Kreator are touring. I'm seeing them April 18. Phantom Anitchrist is good....

The diff took about 200ml to it before It started leaking out. This time I used light castrol manual transmission fluid 75w-80. End result is car now tucks into corners again so I'm happy.One thing I found odd was that I could not tighten the nut all the way when closing it, there was about 2-4 threads left visible and the bolt was very tight. But thats how I found it. Thats normal - its a tapered thread. You dont need to tighten it up hard, just firm.

Might be worth throwing some plugs at it (and seeing what the current ones look like) since that's cheap if you're using coppers, but yeah agree with injector cleaning (and oil change!).

Last time I looked at the ducts the just jap ones were fibreglass knock offs. The real ones are plastic and have clips to hold them on. If it were me i'd pay extra for the real ones (and if time=money, it would work out cheaper since i dont have to work out how to mount the JJ ones). I like RHDJapan.... but have also used greenline and nengun sucessfully.

Just make sure you dont get any on the clutch plate!

Get sway bars (Are you positively annoyed friend? nismo_man?) - they're usually the best place to start, in particular getting a stiffer rear bar will reduce the understeer. You can get adjustable bars - i have whitelines on mine with the front full soft and the rear full hard. Still understeers, but its a lot better.

Sounds like the short was through the ratchet, so you should be ok.

Not sure. I always assumed so, and assumed it was because the opening in the front guard needs to be larger to allow for the wheel movement when steering.

AFAIK it depends on what import scheme the car was brought in under. My car doesnt have the compliance plate, so from what I understand will be a big PITA if i have to re-register after expiry. Other schemes it wont be such a big deal. I know that's vague, but i would assume if its been brought in under the currect scheme, it will meet the current rules, so you'll be ok. If its been brought in under any other, there's some risk.

I got a Dewalt rattle gun with two batteries and charger for <$400 in a sale, was Vek or Transquip or similar. If you dont need it urgently just get on the tool vendors mailing lists and wait until the next sale of a decent brand.

Cant see the photo. Was there any instructions on which orientation to lay the film? If the polarising is that same sort of thing as polarising sunglasses the orientation will be important because the polarisation is directional. I would guess that there should be a label on the film saying TOP so you know which way to lie it on the screen. I would guess that 180 degress out would be fine.... not really sure on any of this.

Rims make no difference, but rolling diameter must be the same within a few percent to be legal and to make sure your speedo is accurate. IIRC all GTRs are the same with respect to hights (but i'm not 100% sure). So you want lowest of 350mm front 340mm rear (wheel centerline to guard). If you want higher, say if you have clearance problems under the car, then just make sure the front measurement is 10mm higher than the rear. If you're going to track it, get it corner weighted after you've settled on the height you'll run.

Where did you get them? How much for the 255s?

If you're not launching it, just leave it. I've been on mine for 5 years or so and it doesnt get any worse. Plenty of track days, but no drags.

Yes djr i finally found some tein tapered springs are still available (after Fulcrum told me they werent). Ended up ordering 250mm from nengun.

+1 getting the air out is a bitch. Raise the front end off the ground, start the motor and turn the steering wheel all the way to the left, the all the way to right over and over again. Dont let the fluid i the reservoir get too low

If it sounds a bit like rushing water, its probably a worn bearing. My car has it, and has since i've owned it. Most likely to be the input shaft bearing. I dont launch my car and would probably want to rebuild the gearbox before doing that. Thrust bearing will come and go with clutch in and clutch out. Of course, check the oil level anyway.

If by shifter bushing you mean the cap on the end of the shifter, then some have found the stock plastic ones break. That seems rare tho, so it might just be user brutality. Personally i don't think the metal (brass?) ones pose any real wear risk. The complaint about grinding gears with a short shift is pretty dumb, since you would get the same effect by changing the gears more quickly with the standard shifter. Synchos can only do so much, and they get sloppier with wear. I have the nismo 10% shifter (the ~$250 one, not the 25% ~$500 one) and its just feels like it tightens things up a bit - doesnt really feel like a true short shifter. It uses the stock pivot point. A true short shifter will raise the pivot point with a mount that bolts to the top of the gearbox.

Fair enough, but I think that setup may make the GTR understeer more than it would at 350f 340r. Remember that front guards have a larger opening to deal with the turning wheel, so you would expect to have a larger number at the front.

Skdneykid used to say that 350 front 340 rear is about as low as you could go before it all went to poo (and that requires a bunch of adjustable bushes or equivalent to align), but it sounds like you're going for a look not for performance, right?