MrStabby

The way to tell if the oil is still usable is to get a used oil analysis. It will also offer some clues as to whether the engine is wearing at a faster than normal rate, but you really need to read the trend across a few UOAs to make a definitive interpretation. So I would use a good oil, and only change it when the UOA indicates its getting close to its condemnation point. The Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 10W-40 - looks like a great oil. HTHS = 4.49! So its tougher than Motul 300V chrono, Amsoil etc. The problem with running 50 and 60 weight oils on the track is that the oil filter will be in bypass mode a lot of the time due to the high revs and high viscosity. So that means whatever abrasive crap is in your oil keep circulating through the motor over and over (unless you do something to address that issue). However, if the engine is worn out and has low oil pressure issues then running a heavier oil is sensible.

AFAIK Its not oil pump dependent - its about the crank. The most R32 cranks need a collar, 33 and 34 cranks are fine. Nissan fixed the problem late in the 32 run.

In that case i would change it will an appropriate full synthetic, and monitor the level at +5000 and +10000kms to see if its stable. You'll never need to change the oil again, since full synth will last as long as the box. In that case def check the boot. Its not the top one you see first with the metal ring that mounts onto the car body - its under that one. Mine was completely split just around the shifter stalk. My clutch change DIY has some more detail if you need it.

This. The other advice is really quite odd too, which makes me concerned that he he either doesn't know what he's talking about, or is ripping you off. Read up more from this forum, in particular the RB26 sticky. I doubt you'll find anyone bothering to ditch the plenum at that power level, or using built stock turbos (which would have to be massively highflowed to make that much power) when -5s are cheap, better tech, and well proven. Also - is your motor built for that level of power? If not, its very unlikely to last long. For me, sensible options are; -9s for around 320-330kw stock motor in good condition -5s for around 370-380kw built motor, and maybe aftermarket 1-3 gearset (or third will be vulnerable)

The rubber boot that connects the shifter to the gearbox often dies. When that happens youll get a little smoke from the shifter when youre on the highway cruising in 5th. Might be worth checking that, but i'm not really sure how much noise it blocks. Gearshifter getting warm is normal. Might as well check the gearbox oil level if you haven't already.

Yeah, sorry iwanta. > If you dramatically change 1 part (eg reduce your flywheel weight by half - lets say 6kg), will it not throw out the balance of the bottom end? Yes it will. No - if the new and old flywheels are both in good balance it will make no difference to the balance. It will change the frequencies that the crank/flywheel assembly resonates at, but thats the twist along its length, not the rotation. Think of it this way - lets assume the crank is infinitely stiff, so it cant twist along its axis. Now lets say one of the big ends is heaver than the rest, then as it rotates around its axis it will produce vibration. Try putting something eccentrically weighted in a drill and see what happens. Now if we assume the crank is perfectly balanced, but is not perfectly stiff (ie its like a big spring), then it wont vibrate in a radial direction. If we now sit on one end of the crank and look at the other end of the crank, we will see the other end twist forward and back a little, due to the action of the rods applying force to it. This twist will put no force at all on the mains bearings, unlike an eccentric weight. I know i didn't describe that well. I think about it some more and see if can work out how to describe it better. > Adam, why would you only balance a rotating assembly if it was externally balanced? Any rotating assembly should be balanced regardless of how it is balanced! I might not have described it well. For an internally balanced motor, you balance the crank/rods/pistons together. The balancer and clutch assemblies are balanced separately (they should be supplied balanced) so you can swap one well balanced clutch assembly with another well balanced clutch assembly without having to pull the motor apart to rebalance everything, as stated above by GTRPSI. With an externally balanced motor, there will be eccentric weights on the flywheel and/or balancer, which form part of the crank counterbalancing so in that case you have to balance the balancer/crank/rods/pistons/flywheel together. But again im not an engine builder, so i'm only moderately confident i understand this stuff.

That makes a lot of sense to me. You would only ever want or need to balance the whole balancer/crack/flywheel etc together if the engine was externally balanced.

Gavin, I still think you may be confusing engine balancing (which is nothing to do with what the harmonic "balancer" does on an internally balanced engine) with the crankshafts resonant torsional frequencies (aka harmonics), which is what the harmonic "balancer" dampens. The firing order etc interacts with the resonant vibration to increase or decrease its magnitude, depending on when the rods hit the crank as it twists back and forth. This stuff is known as constructive and destructive interference on simple harmonic motion (or something like that). I did study this stuff around 20 years ago, but i have a terrible memory, so i could be mistaken. Harmonic balancers are as stupidly named as shock absorbers. Each should be called vibration dampeners, as that correctly describes their function.

I was told that almost all motor were internally balanced, except for odd stuff like 400ci chevs. <quote> Making large weight changes over what it was designed to operate with can introduce excessive torsional frequency changes, more than what the balancer can remove, which can lead to premature bearing failure & the worst case scenario of crankshaft breakage. </quote> True, but that has nothing at all to do with being internally or externally balanced, right?

Why is that? Are R34's externally balanced?

Pretty sure most of us are running 134 with no problems - i know i am. Maybe your compressor died because its 20+ years old.

Engine - stock turbos can go and sometimes destroy the motor when they do. Motor can starve oil at the track (but overfilling one litre stops that), There's a bad oil pump drive on early RB26s, but if the balancer is ok and you don't bounce of the limiter, its typically ok, and its easily fixed during a rebuild. Gearbox, diff and transfer case are all pretty good. Fill all with full synthetics of the right fluids and forget. Some people strip third gear once you get somewhere past 360awkw. AFAIK the diffs and transfer case are good to 400.

You should have posted in the Wanted to Buy forum http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/13-wanted-to-buy/

Re: oil filters, i don't know of anyone who has dissected a ryco, but K&N have been dissected and are high quality. OEM filters are typically high quality, but again no firm knowledge there. So with that very small amount of info, my preference would be K&N first, then OEM, then Ryco.

Pretty sure the bcnr33 and 34 units are different. FYI i poked around FAST and it might be that part number 47600-05U00 is only for Aug89 to Aug91. If you're Aug91 or later PM me your vin and ill see what FAST says. Edit: BCNR33 part number comes up as 47600-98U25, so definitely different.

IIRC the standard operation is only for the aux fan to kick on once a certain temperature is reached. However, that means it hardly ever operates and the aircon is not cold when the car's no moving fast enough. This mod adds a diode to the circuit so whenever the aircon, is on the aux fan is on. It works well for me. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/153378-r32-have-your-overheat-fan-turn-on-with-your-ac/ Its for an R32, but the theory is the same.

Couldnt make it after work that should have finished at ~9pm the day before took until 5am on the 22nd Cant track with no sleep so ill do the 10th Jan. day.

Sounds like you'd be buying someone elses problem, which wont be a lot of fun, and there'll be a higher risk of issues. If i were you i'd get something that's running so you can get the whole package checked out.

Forecast is for 36 degrees in Goulburn tomorrow.....toasty. Dont forget sunscreen.

You can setup the injectors in the PowerFC, but you'll need to know the latency of the denso 550s or the idle & low throttle fuelling will be off. Also, you'd be taking a bit of a gamble on the motor if you drive it hard before getting the tune checked after the injector swap.

90% sure ill be there. Black 32 GTR, and my track rims are R34 GTR rims.

Dont forget to change the PS fluid once you've worked out what the problem is...

R35 brakes are huge, so you'd need ~20inch rims and to upgrade the rears as well or the bias will be way off.

So white/blue smoke and wont make any boost, right?