MrStabby

Suggesting a shorter OCI but a crappier oil - thats whacky logic! 180 degree about face

ok, i'll drop it a 5k and get it tested. Last time i checked Redline had superior stats to 300v in the ones i cross checked, but all the manufacturers appear to be constantly improving their oils without changing the product name. They're both 100% group 5 oils, so should hold up really well. Interesting that it didnt appear to.

Yep - seconded.

FYI there's no love for using a 30, so apparently i'm a slow learner and a 40 is the way to go, as you've all been saying. The Valvo SynPower 5W-40 seems fine, but Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 might be a little better at the same price point. Mobil 1 0W-40 a little better still but more expensive, then Redline and 300v better still and even more expensive. I'll get the SynPower tested at 10K to verify its ok for the full OCI.

Ok, well you're both scaring me now, but ill still try the ?w-30 anyway. Probably Mobil 1 5W-30 ESP. BTW - what oils do you both run? Is anyone here running a ?w-30? If so, which one?

Jetwreck said: --------------------------------------------------------------- I'm with you Duncan about the 40 figure.....it's the 5W30 or even worse the 0W30 figure in Australia that does not suit this motor. That oil figure is for the Japanese domestic market and as this car was only released into the Japanese market things will be different. e.g. 100 octane fuel, Temperature, Humidity....and the big daddy.....Snow! They also recommend plugs with a heat sig of 5....I run 7's "but thicker oils protect better at high temperatures/stresses" This statement only reenforces my argument for not using a 5W30 oil......We have a high boost motor(even in standard form) pushing 2T through a gearbox that sucks over 1/3 of the power and for 5-6 months of the year in the eastern states we can quite easily hit 30-40 degree's. The Grade of oil also plays a significant part in motor wear with this thing.......Going to Bob the mechanic and getting him to do an oil change with a $5 filter and $20 can only lead to a bad ending. But what do I know.......it's not like I work on these things every other weekend. Adam - Test the IIRC recommended oil! Go crank some more boost into the motor and take if for a thrash......then put 10W40 in and do the same thing. Let me know what you come up with..... also test it mid summer! ------------------------------------------------------------ I will probably test the Valvoline 5W-40 full synth i have in it at the moment at 10,000kms, and I will try a ?W-30 after that and also test it at 10k too. Will only be stock motor on stock boost tho. My Stag is a daily and the GTR is the one for thrashing. If you're running a non-standard motor, then the factory oil recommendation no longer applies. I don't recall OP mentioning he was non-standard, but even even on a mild tune I still believe a full syn 0W-40 should be an excellent choice. Re thicker oils, you can get the benefits of a thin oil with the protection of a thick oil, if the thin oil has a good HTHS. Agree that noise is probably and indicator of damage - but ill pose the question on BITOG to see if they agree. FWIW, some additives reduce notice, and that's unrelated to viscosity. BTW - i'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just saying I haven't heard anything that convinces me yet. I have cognitive bias that makes me see cognitive bias everywhere...

I have the same understanding as Duncan, but its an oversimplification to say 0w-40 and 10w-40 have the same viscosity at operating temperature, because even different 10W-40s have some variation in viscosity at operating temperature, because all oils are a bit different. The 40 rating is not a narrow range. Example: Redline 5W-40 = 15.1 @100DegC Nulon 5W-40 = 13.0 @100DegC = 16% difference Also, the theory is that generally thinner oils protect better at startup, but thicker oils protect better at high temperatures/stresses - but only for the same quality oil. Duncan - IIRC recommended oil is 5W-30

Nissan would have been aware of the heat and pressure when they came up with the oil spec. What was wrong with the 5w-30 you ran? Did you get a UOA?

Sounds like a sensible oil choice to me, worn or not, there's no reason to think that would contribute to the problem. (Am I missing something?)

"Volume" probably attenuates the signal from the lateral accelerometer, the effect of which is to put more torque to the front wheels when cornering. The 32 attessa is biased to cut a lot of power to the front wheels when cornering, and benefits greatly from tweakers like this to make it more balanced. If you've improved the suspension setup to lessen understeer, then the need to get more power to the front wheels is more pronounced. Anyways, for a start, just set it to the midpoint. If you want to really get to know how it affects things, do a track day and play around with different settings.

+11ty. This is one area where the punishments are too weak. Driving an unregistered car or when disqualified should get the car impounded for a year.

If they obscure your vision (eg rear window), yes, otherwise no. Concur with the rest of the comments in this thread tho.....

Any ideas as to why it failed? How many kms on the motor? What oil were you running?

Used them at Wakefield, Eastern Creek and Marulan with both EBC yellows and QFM A1RMs, and all seemed to work well, but im no expert. I also have the UAS air deflectors that go on the radius rods. Before i got them i had the UAS 327mm kit which used DBA4000 GTR rotors (which cracked - the crappy old design) with the sumitomos spaced out, Had braided lines and was using DS2500s and DS3000s. I found the pedal to be harder and felt more positive (so i guess the chinese calipers are more rigid that the sumis). Nice big pads too. Agree with Mr Untouchable - wouldn't touch the coilovers but the brake kit is good.

I got the chinese option - 330x32mm 8 pot G4s after reading some of track ppl here saying they're a good thing. Very happy with them. IIRC Nismoids group buy is still on....

The screaming could be a small air leak. Try turning to boost down 3psi and see how that affects the running. Stock ECUs cant run much boost. Careful you dont blow the motor - if you dont know what pinging sounds like, baby the car until you get the timing sorted.

Are you only interested in straight line? 8Fr 4Rr will be horrible for going around corners (missmatched), like 12Fr 12Rr is horrible (too hard, mismatched). If you're running the Super Streets use the Super Street springs - they are correctly matched front to rear and they'll match the valving - 6Fr 4Rr IIRC.

Even if you ignore ATTESSA issues, GTRs understeer and you just make that worse by putting skinnier tyres at the front, so its really makes no sense.

^ what he said, and basically youre working one turbo extra hard which cant be good for its long term survival.

You should have about 7psi by 3000 and 15psi by about 3900. You could try disconnecting the boost signal to the actuators and plugging the line then go for a CAREFUL run up to say 3500 or 4000 to see if the boost comes on any better. Dont go further than this as boost will keep climbing! If you notice boost building better, then an EBC should help. -7s come with adjustable actuators standard so check the preload on the actuators - usually 1cm is a good start. Then apply some air pressure to them via the common feed line to make sure they open the same amount at the same time.

Could be low fluid level in the power steer or bearings in the power steering or alternator. Check PS fluid level. (I assume you've already checked engine oil level).

Google Edward Lees to get an impression of reputation. Don't buy without getting a full inspection from good shop like Tunehouse, CRD, etc.

Your mate is ignorant of his rights if he believes what Nissan is telling him.

What power level do you need to support?

You guys getting early failure on new AFMs should talk to Fair Trading or the equivalent in your state. In NSW Nissan cant get away with saying there's no warrantee since its mandatory under the law to supply goods of "merchantable" quality.