MrStabby

Hmm - that could be due to the highflow wheels rather than the fact its been rebuilt tho. Are there any quiet factory turbos?

Again? The were out of stock when it was being discussed before (so around 23rd Sept), but mine got delivered in pretty quick time anyway. Maybe a week, two weeks tops.

Do any NM stag owners have quiet turbos? The ones i tested before buying all had the same noise, so I came to the conclusion that they're just noisy from factory (in a cool way) and it is not an indicator of imminent failure, as Brick is saying. They may often fail at around the 100k mark, but that's unrelated to the normal noise. If it were my car and I couldn't find with 100% certainty what the oil was and when it was done (ie a receipt from a reputable business) then i'd just change it with a full synth 5W-40 or similar, and do the filter too. Oil colour is not a useful indicator of condition! My guess is the turbo bearing lube issue occurs when the oil has been left in too long and sludges up. However, the failure could occur after an oil change as the detergents in the new oil start to clean up the mess.

I put 34 GTR seats in my 32 GTR. The 32 seats are way to narrow in the shoulders for me. Suggest you sit in a 34 GTR seat before you buy it/them, since they're not cheap and you want to know they feel right for your body before you throw the coins. Bolt straight it - easy job.

If you're thinking of buying one and want to track it - get in one with a helmet on first to check the headroom.

I'm interested in this too, since i have the same issue. I'm going to try bleeding by putting the car up on stands and putting in gear then cracking the bleeder at the end of the gearbox (pretty sure i read that somewhere, and am not making it up). I did the plug/unplug thing and it would only pump for a very short time. Sounds like you had the same problem. Thanks for posting your progress.

IIRC SK used to recommend that you match the spring rates to the weight balance, ie if its 60:40 front rear then the spring rates are also 60:40 front rear, and you fix the understeer with sway bar rates (if possible). Maybe a middle road between the two approaches using even rates would be the best compromise? The trade off is ride/handling (weight balanced spring rates) vs better front/rear grip balance (stiffer than weight balanced on the rear). My 32 GTR is 8/6 spring rates with the front sway bar of full soft and the rear sway bar on full hard. Still understeers.....maybe i should try the Nismo understeer fix and get softer springs in the front.

Do a search here - there's other federal tyres that don't like R34 GTR rims. IIRC it was the 595RSRs, and there was no fix

Replaced shocks all round, and bled the callipers since i was there. Also - HPX are hopeless for track work. I know two people who tried tand both were miserable failures.... A1RMs are a whole different story, but i would expect they would be tough on rotors if you used them for street. Cold bite is not great either, so agree that pads are the #1 thing to swap in and out for track days (or maybe #2 after tyres).

KYB shocks for NM35 2001 Fronts: NSF9420R + NSF9420L (right and left sides) Rears: 2 x NSF2069 Cost me $790 including shipping from Greenline.

I have to get one of those. Is this the one you got Eric? DP1314 Teng Tools 13mm Square x 14mm Hex Drain Plug Socket Is the idea that you then use a 14mm socket on the end to operate it? Dunno why they don't just use a half inch drive hole.

Cant remember how much fluid i used but i always have a couple of 500ml bottles on hand. I also usually just gravity bleed but due to the ABS nipple location I got the vacuum bleeder. You just put the hose on the nipple, release it a bit and pump away. I would do the pads and rotors before or after, just to separate the work to simplify it. Also you shouldn't ever get in the situation where you cant stop - dont take it out until the pedal feels right

I did mine. Was a PITA to get it fully bled again, but quite possible. Just kept bleeding until i had a hard pedal. I used a vacuum bleeder on the ABS itself - not sure if that's necessary tho.

How did you make the assessment that it was burnt? Or do you mean you had to top up? In what way did the Motul not match up to the Neo?

Ouch. On most motors if you're paying that much you'd be better off with Redline or Motul 300V which IMO are better oils at about the same price. Maybe the neo additive pack works particularly well with the vq25det?

How much does the Neo cost? Unless its cheap I would just get the same weight in something else full synth. Its good, but there's plenty of good oils around.

Yep, it its not on the floor, its probably gone out the exhaust. Burnt oil smoke is a bluey/whitety colour. When mad says check coolant, you're looking to see if it has oil in it.

In brackets are the Nissan certifications the fluids have; Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL I'd reckon any would be ok with the attessa too, might as well be the Valvoline due to the price.

I can find plenty of bad reviews of various companies via google. Anyone know anyone good? Inner west location. Its an industrial style roller (internal spring, chain opener).

This is a BMW question, so you may have more luck posting on a BMW forum. Hopefully they'll have some idea about other options, eg maybe there's a stronger 5 series diff from say a 535 or M5 that will bolt straight in.

Mine has a very gentle creep. Is your idle @650 rpm?

Synx 3000 is a only semi-syn, and AFAICT GW don't publish HTHS specs either. Running a semi in a turbo car is not worth it IMO. By whacky logic, i mean that you're suggesting a shorter OCI (which is more conservative) but a lower grade of oil (which is less conservative). To me that combo is mixed up. No need to blow $170 when the Valvoline and Shell are in the $60-65 range, and you can get 6 quarts of American M1 on ebay (so no Australia tax) for $70.

How about Holden?