MrStabby

I did some digging after your comment about the ATTKD stuff, and found JJ have the pair of 356x32mm ATTKD rotor rings for $500, (330s are $250) and the website also says; "356mm Front Brake Rotor Set (Hats Not Included) To Suit: ATTKD - 356mm Front Brake Rotor Set Other Manufactors [sic] That Will Suit: K-Sport D2 AP Racing" So their staff dont even read their own website!

Check for bent arms or worn out bushes. Sounds like to you have a significant problem.

Bumpity bump. I've been pricing 356mm rotors for D2/G4/Ksport and they're coming back at around $950, similar to the pricing above (that may include hat and bolts which i dont need - waiting for clarification about that). Duncan's DIY says "A pair of rings (~$400)" http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/414681-diy-replacing-pads-and-rotors-on-d2g4attkd-etc-8-piston-brakes/ Where did those $400 rings come from? FWIW Justjap dont carry D2/G4/Ksport anymore (I bought my G4 kit from them) and say the attkd stuff is different.

Are you talking about different amount of camber, or a different amount of tyre wear? I've never heard of different camber. Castor is usually a little different to compensate for the slope of the road so it tracks straight. Wheels shouldnt stick out any different left to right. What does the alignment sheet say?

The Tech notes say to change the oil and filter. Suggest you get an oil with good cleaning abilities - maybe a Heavy Duty aka diesel oil that's also SL SM or SN certified, or maybe a high mileage oil. I would also just use a cheap dino and change it regularly (eg every 3000kms), if there's any evidence the motor is sludged.

Yeah the lever out the side of the box should be pushing back against the slave very hard, however, with yours its just flapped open.

It should feel good if the pads are bedded in and hydraulics properly bled. Track pads wont have a lot of bite cold tho.

^ what he said, and they have bush bearings and may well be old tech laggy wheels. Just go straight to -7s (aka R34 N1s) or -9s. Its a lot of work to change turbos and they make a big difference to how the motor runs, so if you skimp you'll regret it. Only other option would be to contact Hypergear to what he has to offer, but usually the cost of a proper rebuild/highflow is too close to the -7s so its just not worth it. There's no difference between the blocks with respect to manifolds and mounting of turbos.

> Then I upgraded to QFM A1RMs used them at my first ever outing at Wakefield Park, held up about 3/4 laps then after that the car needed pedal to floor to stop (mind you I'm not doing any amazing times either) Were the pads gone or did you boil the fluid? I find using the cheapo 280 degree Nulon fluid goes before the A1RMs on my car. I have basic ducting to my front brakes tho.

Why the need for the tow? Is it not running?

Does the car run well? If that injector to head mounting is not sealed, it will suck in unmetered air and run lean.

AFAIK oil pressure the key thing, but yeah 20-40 seems too cold. My HKS kit, which has a thermostat, sits at just above 70 degrees on the stock gauge all the time except at the track. To test coolant thermostats you just put them in a saucepan of tap water on the stove with a thermometer and check the temperature when you see it open. No idea if you could do similar with your oil thermostat, but if its stuck open you should be able to see that when you pull it out. Agree with double checking the plumbing too.

Most likely rotors, and yeah first step is to machine if thick enough AND clean the mating surfaces thoroughly before re-installing them. If that doesnt fix it then you look at bushes etc. Also its shudder not shutter.

Well i had assumed so, because otherwise the information is meaningless as you say. Maybe I am assuming too much... good point.

So Duncan what do you think about the comments in that thread, eg "Last year I know Scotsman from here dropped 1s on his lap time at Sandown by simply going from 265's on a 9" rim (R34 GTR rims) to 245's and consequently set the fastest time I know of for a GT-R with stock turbo's / engine around that track." I dont know what to think, but for me the the smaller tyre theory is plausible if it you consider how the tyre cross section could deform and therefore change the contact patch on the tarmac. Then i guess it comes down to weight of car+cornering gs vs sidewall strength. However, plausible doesn't mean its true...

From: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/156842-best-rim-and-tyre-width-for-circuit-gt-r/#entry2915649 "Having said that I'm pretty sure giant runs 265's on his R34 rims. But the general consesus down here is that stretching a tyre will be faster than sticking a fatter tyre on the same rim. I'm certainly going to be running the 245's on my 9.5's from now on rather than the 265's." And the Tyrerack website says "As a general rule, Tire Rack recommends mounting Track & Competition DOT tires on the widest rim widths approved by the tire manufacturer (up to the widest permitted by the competition class rules).” So, what i take away from that is "fit the widest tyre that will fit in the wheel well, on the widest rim that the manufacturer approves for that size tyre", but i have no first hand experience.

Post a picture. Assuming its just surface damage; - if there's anything protruding get it resurfaced, - if its all below the surface I would just run it as is.

Damn. I just bought some 18x10.5s to run 265/35-18. Do you think i should still try the V70s (i guess ill get the K90) or go with something else?

In V70a's, is the choice between K60 (medium) and K90 (hard) as simple as life vs grip? Will be for a full weight 300kw R32 GTR on tarmac (Wakefield and EC).

Tyres dont look too bad. A little less camber is probably better for street tyres. A set or two of adjustable bushes should be enough, and will still be legal. The reduction in toe you got might help a bit too (and should make it a little more eager to change direction).

Yeah, post alignment info first.

Last time i looked -7s came with new adjustable actuators, whereas -9s dont. So -7s may save you $300-400 once you take that into account. Dont run the old factory actuators. If all you want is 300kws then -7s are fine.

True, but track guys are always looking for any tiny increment in performance, and it was in the discussion of track rims i first saw the argument Here's the post: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/156842-best-rim-and-tyre-width-for-circuit-gt-r/#entry2915649

I haven't seen any discussion of the theory - maybe some just discovered it empirically. I would guess its because it allows the tyre to better resist the deformation caused by the lateral force during cornering, as both sidewalls are pulling the tread taught when the rim is wide. That is, its more rigid, so when the the lateral force of cornering is applied they deform less.

For track, the usual recommendation is to fit the narrowest recommended tyre for the rim. In many cases on a 9in rim this will be a 225, but you need to check what the tyre manufacturer says is the rim recommendation for the specific size. Eg, on http://www.federaltyres.com.au/tyres/high-performance/595 the options would be 225/35ZR18 225/40ZR18 245/45ZR18 255/55R18.