MrStabby

What ECU? most ECUs are open loop at WOT so there's no compensation.

Wear on the tread is fine, cracks/tears in the sidewall are a different thing entirely.

You could; - Get a written statement from a recognised expert (i guess that means a mechanic?) saying that the tyres were not "fit for purpose" (assuming that is the case) - Ring Fair Trading, or whatever the equivalent department is called in your state, for advice on how to proceed to get a refund.

I wouldnt have thought 32psi would cause any damage at all, and should definitely be fine if you're running the factory diameter rims. I'm skeptical. Where does the 38-40 psi recommendation come from? Is there anything written on the sidewalls WRT pressure? What did the shop that fitted them pump them up to?

Toe out = car wants to change direction/turn in/tramline, toe in = stable. I'm no expert but having any toe out on the rear looks weird to me, and may well explain what you're seeing. FWIW I run 0 toe front and rear.

I ended up getting 10.5 +25, trial fit of the wheels without tyres was fine. I now have 265/35s fitted but haven't had time to try them yet. I'm concerned about how the curve of the front upright comes in (toward where the tyre will be) where it mounts onto the upper arm. Might get tight there. I have already rolled my rear guards - i needed that for 255s on +20s on tyres with a generous treadwidth (IIRC the Falken RT-615 scrubbed but whatever was on there before didnt).

Any blue smoke from the exhaust? If so it could be turbo oil seal, otherwise just a bit of condensed blowby. In the second pic the bottom black hose is probably turbo to intercooler and the top is intercooler to manifold. You could check your intercooler to see how much oil its got isn it and degrease/clean it while its out. If the amount of oil in the intake track is a problem and its blowby related, you could get a catch can, or some mesh/foam in the rocker covers (not sure if this is a thing on RB25s, RB26 has mesh standard, and you can get 3 pass foam upgrades).

I dont know RB25s but its probably crankcase blowby fumes carrying oil mist into the intake where it can condense (which is normal unless its excessive). Is the leak point downstream from the turbo? If so you'll probably have a small boost leak. Try to get it to seal. The factory hose clamps are only supposed to be single use, and get pretty tired if they've been used a few times - might need to replace it to get a strong grip. Or maybe the rubber is perished a bit.

+1. Agree with that. I would be confident they sell genuine Nissan coilpacks.

FWIW on R32 GTR the spec is: Alternator - 13.9 to 14.9v with accessories off at 2000rpm I'd say your alternator doesnt have enough spare capacity to run those fans.

What voltage do you see across the battery terminals when the fans are on? What about then the fans and headlights are on? If its less than 12.6 volts, then the battery is getting drained so you either need to make more electric power (more powerful alternator), or use less power (smaller/weaker fan(s).

Hmm, from http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/414977-gearbox-oil-level-question/#entry6655671 "I'm getting it rebuilt at Award gearbox and diff, they will replace everything with new and do a internal mod to help with the oil feed to the front" - I wonder if that is related. Would be nice to know which oils have a good boundary anti-wear additive pack (eg high levels of zinc and phosphorus) which is all 3rd gear would be left with if the oil has sloshed to the back. I couldnt find an oil analysis for Motul 75-140, but here's one for Redline MT-90 which has way higher zinc and phosphorus than the "universal averages", but i'd imagine there is a lot of cheap crap oil making up those averages. It would be interesting to see how the Motul compares as another high end oil.

33GTR are external ignitor, 34GTR are integrated ignitor. So you'll want to bypass the external ignitor, and run the signal directly to the coilpacks. Unless you've got plenty of free time, follow Piggaz advice and just get the right ones.

Google for thickness specification of the clutch plate, check your plate thickness with callipers, keep using it if its within spec

Have a look through the RB20 Dyno sticky thread. For example, the dyno sheet on the top of the last page shows the sort of shape you should be aiming for manifold pressure (boost). I'd guess your setup is always going to be horrible with a turbo that big. Suggest you change your mind about living with it. You want to enjoy driving your car don't you?

AFAIK the only good reasons to run a thicker than specified oil is to; 1. Return oil pressure to spec on a worn motor, 2. Provide a safety margin in a motor that is overheating the oil, 3. Make an engine run more quietly, however, higher noise does not appear to correspond to higher wear I run Mobil 1 0W-40 in my Stagea daily and in my street, but tracked, GTR. IMO its a good bang for buck oil. In the stag its still good after 6000kms so ill try 7000kms and re-test this fill. I will test the GTR @5000kms next change. On a stock motor a ?W-30 should be fine as long as the oil pressure is within spec.

It does sort of anticipate it, by pushing some drive to the front wheels under hard acceleration, even if there is no slip. The biggest problem with the R32 setup is that its biased much too heavily to the rear. I have a cheapo ebay attessa tweaker in the GTR and it transforms the car. Also R32s also have no preload - ie no drive at all to the front under normal conditions. The R33 and later all send a little drive to the front all the time, which improves response, and is why you need to remove the front driveshaft if you're using a 2WD dyno. In an R32 you can just pull a fuse to use a 2WD dyno. While we're talking attessa, do NM35s still require flatbed for towing like early attessas?

It does sort of anticipate it, by pushing some drive to the front wheels under hard acceleration, even if there is no slip. The biggest problem with the R32 setup is that its biased much too heavily to the rear. I have a cheapo ebay attessa tweaker in the GTR and it transforms the car. Also R32s also have no preload - ie no drive at all to the front under normal conditions. The R33 and later all send a little drive to the front all the time, which improves response, and is why you need to remove the front driveshaft if you're using a 2WD dyno. In an R32 you can just pull a fuse to use a 2WD dyno. While we're talking attessa, do NM35s still require flatbed for towing like early attessas?

Check out the tyre manufacturers website for what size rim they recommend for that tyre size. R34 GTR rims are 18x9 and they came with 245/40/18. Assuming a 215 is even permitted, you would need a higher profile than 40 to get the right circumference, and if the circumference is wrong, it will be illegal, the gearing will be different and the speedo will be out. Your question would be better in the Suspension/Braking/Tyres forum, and with some reading thru there and maybe a bit of google you should be able to get a handle what tyre sizes are ok.

Full synth options for the attessa; the Nissan certs are in the () Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL

Agree that if the ls coils were running well that 1mm would almost certainly be better than 0.8, but until then, step down to 0.9 and see how it goes.

In the short term you should be able to stop the 4500 miss by closing the plug gap a bit. What gap are you running now?

IIRC other Fezzas are engine out to do the timing belt....

Yeah mine took ages too. They've definitely gone downhill a bit.