MrStabby

Just jap guy is a muppet. 6/4 is much more sensible than 8/6.

Used them on my D2s but yeah would be fine for brembos and sumis. Got it from Transquip, sale price 100, full price 160. Not cheap but pushing caliper pistons back is a pet hate of mine. US ebay has them for around 100 including delivery; here's the ebay search http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.XLANG+4+IN+1+BRAKE+CALIPER+PRESS&_nkw=LANG+4+IN+1+BRAKE+CALIPER+PRESS&_sacat=0&_from=R40

Ratcheting brake calliper press

The cross section there looks to be a fair bit bigger than in the next valley where the thread is fully formed, and those scratch marks dont appear to deep. So it doesn't look too scary to me, but i've never looked that closely before.

Nice - are you going to put something up in the DIY section?

UOA number 2. 6000kms on Mobil 1 0W-40 (not Delvac 1 as stated in the report). Viscosity within spec this time. I believe this Mobil uses a grp IV basestock, and the SynPower uses grp III. Silicon ok this time. Picture embedding is hanging my browser, so; http://cdn.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/uploads/gallery/album_5500/gallery_15274_5500_65779.png

Spammer - just ignore

10kg is horrible. My car had 10fr 8rr when i got it. I then went to 8/6 which was better but still very rough, and then to 7/6 to reduce understeer, but this car is not a daily and the suspension setup is for track. The rear is pretty horrible ride wise at 6. IIRC Tein super streets are 6/4 or similar, and that sounds like a reasonable setup for mostly street with the odd track days if you not that concerned about ride comfort.

What's the theory behind blowby residue reducing fuel economy? I cant imagine how it would make a difference.

Could he disconnect the PCV hose, plug up the intake side so it doesn't suck air, and just let the cam cover side vent to atmosphere for a dyno run to see what happens as a quick and nasty alternative to those tests?

Have you guys with beefy coils played around with plug gaps? What did you try and was the outcome?

Seems odd to just buy bits when they may make no difference. I would get a trusted suspension shop to take a look first, and replace any of the factory stuff that's worn out, eg. ball joints, tie rod ends and bushes. Got any decent shops in your area? Also, if you intend to lower via the BC's, you may need a bunch more bits to be able to get the alignment right again after the drop. What you need will depend on how low you go, so decide that first. For skylines there were a bunch of SydneyKid group buys that had all that info. I dont know if he did any Stagea group buys.

More tyre pressure? What do you guys run anyhow? My placard says 30 front 34 rear, but i run 34 front 36 rear. Tyre wear seems normal. Dont run anything heavier than a ?W-40 weight oil. Replace o2 sensor if its stuffed, or if you don't know and want to try it. With consult on an RB its easy to tell, no idea about the more modern (P)NM stuff.

Not sure about that specific filter, but usually on dry filters you just blow compressed air from the inside out.

What's load factorying (factoring?)? How did you find this out?

There's a lot of D compliant stuff around, but you may as well just get the Valvo since its well priced, and use it in the PS (and for me in the Stagea's auto since its meets J as well). Nulon Synth ATF (C D J K) 66.50/4L = $16.60perL Valvo Synth ATF (D J K) 49.95/5L = $10.00perL Transmax Z ATF (D only) 76.50/4L = $19.10perL

Here's a decent video for oil nerds. Valvoline engineers, but not too salesy. Unfortunately, they don't really set Eric straight properly about synth not causing oil leaks, and give him an out with a corner case. His cognitive dissonance shows. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXqkOZAkXZw

If it were me i would set EDFC minimum, take the actuator off and check the shock is on minimum by hand, then re-install the actuator, set it to maximum then remove it again an check its on maximum by hand.

Not even close to enough punishment to stop them. There needs to be gaol time or six figure fine. At the moment, their business case still stacks up

255s on a +20 rim needed rear guard rolling for me, so you'd need the same. Rolling is so trivial you might not put it in the "work" category tho.

Dammit, you got me with lulz.

Looks ok to me too. The inside of the coil should be reasonably tight on the perch at the bottom which will be L shaped in profile, so the vertical part of the L will be against the inside of the bottom coil of the spring. I'd guess a mm or two is ok, any more than that would be sus.