MrStabby

My understanding of the theory is that the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flapper combined with the boost pressure on the actuator will start opening the gate before you reach target boost. So, you use a boost controller to bleed off pressure to the actuator until you have reached full boost to keep the gate shut until then. If we plotted boost vs rpm, it would looks something like this (below). Whether its important of not depends on the size of the difference between the two plots.

Not sure what you mean by that question - the gap is the same since you didnt change the plugs right? Not a good sign, you may have a bad coil. Check the resistance of the primary winding on all six - it should be the same. The spec for the stockers is 0.6 to 0.9 ohms and the yellows should be very close to that, middle and left pin when looking at coil plug. The primary winding check can only confirm if its bad, not that its good. EDIT: Sorry that spec is for external ignitor coils only. Since you're Series 2 you wont have an external ignitor and the spec/pins will be different. I'm guessing it will have 4 pins instead of 3?

Split or bellmouth? From what i understand of the theory, split should help with spool, but perhaps the improvement is negligible.

Did you change the plugs at the same time as the coils? If you put plugs in with a wider gap, that would explain it. Otherwise, check all the electrical connections are clean/tight. FWIW the more boost you run, the harder it is for the spark to jump the gap. The smaller the gap the easier it is. Why did you change if the stock ones worked?

NSN - have you got any back to back dyno sheets showing dump only changes? (That's the only thing that would settle the matter) Also, bellmouth or split?

Pretty sure you will always spool better with a boost controller. If you dont have one it will be softer when you get close full boost. Set the actuator to open at a little above the pressure you actually want it to open at, so that the controller doesn't have to work too hard. Of course you'll need a hand pump with gauge to pressure up the actuator to make it move.

I believe they're the same, as both require the external ignitor IIRC. Here's a note I made about splitfire part numbers; 1. SF-DIS-001 = All R32, 33GTR, Series1 33GTST (all external ignitor) 2. SF-DIS-005 = Series1.5 GTST(old body new motor), Series2 GTST, 34GTR (integrated ignitor) 3. SF-DIS-008 = Neo 34GTT

Yeah cap is just pressed in. Good luck!

That might have been me. I tried the seals listed in that thread (the list in incomplete BTW) and they didnt seal. The original seals are not circular in cross-section, and i'm convinced that generic o-rings, which is what is listed in the thread, wont work. Look at the seals in master cylinders and calipers - they're not round either. I would love to be proved wrong, but IMO if you cant find the exact seals its not worth the trouble. If you do try it, the cap in the middle at the top of the unit had a large bolt head under it. Undo that bolt and it should come apart. Also make a note of which solenoid sits where, as when you pull it apart they will fall out. Nobby, if you're in Sydney you can have the seals i have left over if you like.

Yeah, but it cant hurt to specifically ask him to do it. I think 330 is possible given the current power and boost level, but I wont know until I try. I probably need a stronger clutch, and if i'm taking the gearbox out I should do something about the noisy input shaft bearing.... so i'm putting it off for a while. Re exhaust, get the tuner to drop it at the front pipe to see if its an issue or not.

Injectors are seimens 550's, but they were originally bought to replace leaking stockers before i got the -7s. AFMs are stock, so I assume they're out of resolution at full torque. In this case the tune should be extra rich in the map areas where AFMs are maxed so the engine wont lean out on a cold day (cold air = more air mass, which means it also needs more fuel, but the ECU has no way of knowing that). When the AFMs are maxed the ECU is just estimating fuel delivery based on RPM. I'm probably going to get nismo AFMs before i push it to 320-330.

Here you go: from the RB26 sticky. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/93880-rb26-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page__view__findpost__p__5137973 Since you've got the 700s use them instead of an FPR. My standard coilpacks are fine with iridiums at 0.8mm.

IMO you could make a little more than 270 with that combo as is. First thing to check is the exhaust. AFMs you can tune past with an element of risk, injectors are risky near 100% and fatal over 100%. Also clean injectors flow far more than dirty ones. There was a recent thread showing injector that were flowing evenly, but flowed 20% more after they were cleaned. So, as well as rail pressure and AFR, injector cleanliness will determine how far you can get on the stockers. If they're leaking already its a no-brainer - replace them.

Just north of Newcastle past Raymond Terrace, Buckets Way through Gloucester, Walcha/Uralla. Then you're close enough to Armidale or Tamworth. Long drive. No traffic. Bendy bits and open bits I don't like Old Pac. Too busy and not enough visibility.

Exactly - think of a 9v battery as apposed to a D sized one at 1.5v. FWIW the 9 volt actually has 4? little cells inside. Sort of like a 12v car battery has 6 cells. The 48v will just be more, smaller, cells.

Was the -9 price with or without actuators? AFAIK -5 and -7 come with actuators and -9s dont (unless you get the alternative part number which includes them)

Maybe like a spark plug does now - the laser could burn off any carbon. Next step to upgrade the tech on an RB would be direct injection since that's a mature technology already. The laser stuff is a while away if it ever gets into production. I reckon internal combustion has got a fair bit of life left in it. Either ethanol or gas (Australia has shedloads of gas. There's just been a $90 billion 20 year deal signed with China).

Bollocks A *little* better than -7s when you're over 300kws otherwise SFA difference. I'm 305kw @17psi with -7s. OP; - turbos are key part of the equation, no sense in getting -5s just because they're cheaper. You get them if you want 380kws. For 300 they're a bad choice. - if you're ever going to do dumps, do them now, but you could just as well not bother. If you look at cost/benefit, -7s without dumps will be much better than -5s with dumps for around the same cost. - when i checked pricing, -7s were $400 cheaper for the pair than -9s with new actuators. Dont use old actuators.... - you're thinking about cams (waste) but maybe buying -5s to save a little money? That doesn't make sense. You need to let us know how tight the money is and what results you want. Option 1 - 280kw - cheap; -7s, cam gears, stock dumps, injectors, AFMs Option 2 - 330kw - medium; -9s, cam gears, 550 injectors, nismo AFMs Option 3 - 380kw - exxy; -5s, cam gears, 700 injectors, nismo AFMs, dumps, oh and BUILT MOTOR and gearbox upgrade to keep 3rd gear in one piece.... And Nismoid's exhaust rule; 300kw = 3 in 350kw = 3.5 in 400kw = 4 in

Track + 400kw means you will need one if you want to be out there for any length of time. Street and drag are ok without it. Some kits go in front of the radiator (eg the HKS kit i'm using) which is less effective. With that much power you'll want to have it in front of the front wheel using the openings under the headlight to get a good flow of cool air through the core. Not that much extra oil, maybe a litre?

The one with the bigger piston will brake harder. Surely you have a mixed up set and using them like that would be dangerous and illegal....

AFAICT an ignitor is just a transistor (so in early skylines the ignitor pack contains 6 transistors) but it might also contain some capacitors to "tune" the circuit. Transistor = electronically controlled switch. Similar in function to a relay. So yeah switches power to the coilpacks.

Getting them cleaned and tested would a sensible next step. Stock ECU at 1 bar you expect to see black smoke.