MrStabby

FWIW shop manual says engine oil for flywheel bolts.

No. The factory computer should be able to cope with 95 by using the "knock" map, but 95 is the absolute minimum.

I'd probably use it a couple of times a year, but only on weekends and i'd want say 6am to 10pm access. Maybe $200/day max?

I *think* you can tell if it has a built in ignitor by the number of earth connections on the coil itself. For some reason they seem to use separate earths for the signal and power circuits. I dont know enough about electronics to know why they bother doing it that way.

Without applying any brainpower, that would seem the most obvious way to set it up to me. I'd want to make sure that the commo and nissan ECU's use similar signals to the ignitors before doing it tho.

That could only happen if the fuel filter material is ripped/torn. They dont bypass when dirty. OP use a multimeter to find if there's any injector signal wires with zero resistance to ground.

So; you have a series 1 motor with the external ignitor pack and have connected the output of that to the commo coilpacks which presumably have built in ignitors. Off the top of my head i cant tell if that will cause a problem, but have you thought it through? Do you understand how transistors work?

I drove past today and from a brief glimpse there was no sign they were out of business, ie the shop looked like it always did.

If you mean come on earlier, yes. "raise" ie above one bar, no because its the boost controller's job to keep it at the right level.

Its crying out for an ECU+tune. Nistune would be the best option. Dont bother with anything else until that's done. If you want to go fuel pump, nismo or sard drop ins are the nicest but not the cheapest. If you're strapped for cash just enjoy the car as is.

I've used my GTR as a daily, but only 1 hour trips each way. Are you sure the clutch booster is working? (clutch pedal should be lighter when the engine is on and feeding it vacuum). I've never been in a skyline with standard suspension.... If the shocks are tired it makes the ride worse.

Which EBC's? In what way bad? I've tried DS2500 and DS3000 which are well respected and yeah they were fine (except 3000s are brutal on rotors if you use them cold, so no good for street). But the Yellows were just as good (and i'm running 60 more rwkw now) and far cheaper at the time.

I like the EBC yellows... I run them in the G4 330mm front kit with air deflectors, no stone guards and stock rear brakes on my 300kw R32 GTR and it works well. But since you've got the Brembos not the sumitomos i'd try the yellows all round with decent fluid and air deflectors. I've run Motul BRF600 with no problems, but am going to try the Nulon to see how it goes since its a third the price. Motul = 310 degress, Nulon = 280 degrees IIRC. If you go plan B you'll still want the air deflectors.

Thanks - I have found it difficult to get specs, but is sounds like it could be; Inlet Duration: 240 std, 240 N1 Inlet Lift: 8.58mm std, ? N1 Exh. Duration: 236 std, 248 N1 Exh. Lift: 8.28mm std, ? N1 Do you know if N1 cams respond less to cam tuning? CRD found cam adjustment didnt make much difference on my car. I have a 24U block, N1 water pump, higher that stock oil pump flow, and an 8500rpm redline so i'm assuming its an N1 motor.

Sorry for the hijack - but Baron do you have the rest of the N1 specs (exh duration, intake and exh lift?)

AFAIK the law states that goods must be "fit for purpose". Call Fair Trading to see what they say. You may need to pay to get an expert opinion (mechanical engineer? metallurgist?) for comment, but FT will instruct you. Nissan are probably just trying to make you go away so they dont have the replace the wheel for free. Consumer protections are quite strong so dont just accept what they say.

Ok so the OP needs to check the dimensions (snout OD, balancer ID, roundness) with a micrometer. If the snout OD is within spec then its reasonable to repair the keyway, if not, new crank. If the balancer ID is out of spec then just get a new balancer. If the gap is a little bit more than spec, would it be possible to dodgy up some of the clearance with a locktite product? Also, I'm guessing the crank should be annealed after welding (assuming its safe to do so) to really do the job correctly.

To check I understand what's been said above and the bits i know - is this a good summary? - the keyway is only use to locate the balancer during installation, and does nothing once the bolt is installed - the only reason the balancer needs to be located is so the timing marks are in the correct location (ie it's not counterweighted or ??) - so the only effect of a worn keyway is that the timing marks will be a little off But if i understand Elite, he's saying the balancer will come loose again if the keyway is stuffed and the motor is revved high. Que?

How did you find that out? Back to back, same tune, same plugs etc test on a dyno?

So the stock turbos survive at 25 psi but the crank doesnt? WTF? Too many weird and convoluted stories with this one - my dodginess alarm is going off. Personally, I wouldnt buy it.

Dammit i've got to sig that. So few words, so much sense.

So there's your answer. Its not a final, full power tune. Sounds like your tuner is being conservative to keep the risk of a blown motor/turbo failure/whatever to the minimum. If that's the case, then his opinion and approach should be respected. 3in is definitely too small for -5s and therefore sub-optimal. It would be worth getting a 3.5 or 4 in fitted before you take it back for the full power tune. Dont skimp on the cat.

The lulz are strong in this one.

Yeah I find that hard to believe. Since having the receipt is so important when selling the car, you'd have to be a retard not to hang on to it. OP - will the workshop provide a copy of the receipt? Shouldn't be a problem as they have already confirmed verbally that they did the work. If not, I'd assume there is no build and you are buying stock, and work out the value on that basis.