MrStabby

In that article the guy says that his intercooler exit temperature is almost ambient, so he has optimised for the condition when the turbo is doing next to nothing. If he were to try again with a turbo running hard (so the compressor is adding heat) then he would find that insulating the pipe is a backwards step (assuming underbonnet temperatures are less than compressed air temperatures). But yeah, probably doesnt make much difference either way, as sections of pipe are not great heat exchangers. Djr has it right, the answer is No

Insulating the intercooler exit piping? Really? What happens when the turbo is operating hard and adding heat to the incoming air, so the compressed air is HOTTER than the underbonnet temperature.....

This would be better in Forced Induction Performance. Is this correct? - it was running fine with factory boost control at about 7psi - you made some electronic boost controller changes and it ran like shit - you tried a manual boost controller on 7psi and it still runs like shit (but the boost builds fine to 7psi and holds there) What do the plugs look like? (fouled?) Are you running standard ECU and turbo? Double check for leaks in your piping.

No he said "std GTR Brembo before on my car and was interesting to compare them against the Sumitomo R32 GTSt caliper on the same sized rotor" so GTR rotors with GTST calipers, which arent that much different to the brembos; 4 piston and IIRC the piston sizes are identical or similar.

Many people go straight from 1.1 down to 0.8, but if you want to optimise then go for that largest gap that you dont get missfire... Also - check the DIY section for how to silicon/electrical tape your coilpacks to stop them arcing to the head. You might be able to continue running the gap you have now.

Mitsubishi 90amp - I checked the workshop manual

If it werent for the oil pressure issue, i'd say it sounds like a loose metal shield. What oil are you using? Tried something thicker (the second number represents the hot thickness and is the one to bump up, ie if you're running a ?W-40 try a ?W-50) to see if it makes any difference? You should get your used oil analysed - the report might point to the problem.

That add says 3.5in flanged - that is for a 3.5in pipe, and the cat body is larger than that, probably 4 inch. Check the catco prices as well. The flow measurements are meaningless without stating what be pressure is....

The coilpacks could be fine - IMO you should swap with a known good set and try them before buying a new set. Splitfires have a good reputation. Other things to look at are the coilpack wiring, injectors and injector wiring (if your injectors are low impedance there's a resistor pack in the circuit). Having said that, intermittent problems are often coilpacks... If it were me i'd get the other three issues sorted first as they should be easier to sort out, then see if the drop out is still there and if so move onto troubleshooting that. PM me if you want some help

S2s dont have an external ignitor pack, that function is integrated onto the coilpack.

Justin's suggestion is good. Wire them shut and see if they build boost properly. If they do then yeah the actuators are the problem. CRD found a bunch of crap in my intercooler when they installed my turbos..... WhereTF did that come from??!!

Cool - i'll see you there. Who else from SAU will be there on Sunday 30th?

I would be interesting to see what it would make if you dropped the cat back. The consensus here appears to be that people find they can get good gains at that power level by going bigger than 3in. Nismoid posted; 300kw = 3in 350kw = 3.5in 400kw = 4in recently as a rough guideline/rule of thumb on what is the sweet spot for exhaust sizing. No doubt he'll slap me if i've misunderstood his post.

Looks good to me! Cool solution - should be fine long term as the spring will be nowhere near its elastic limit (that is where it is permanently stretched). Just need to make sure all wires etc are tied clear of it, which i'm sure he's already done.

This was as good as i could get from the phone; Also i made a graph of boost response on my car for stock turbos compared to 34 N1s. 1 bar at about 3900, but i *think* my cam gears are still at 0 degrees. Very few data points so not reliable.

Since you're down on power over what you should be seeing you should address that before you look at any more "modding". I'd do this; 1. Change injectors because they're at their limit now, if you manage you fix whatever issue you have they'll be past maxed out 2. get compression checked, if that's ok then 3. 4in 200 or 100 cell cat and another dyno run. If power is still down drop the cat back to see if the 3.5in HKS is a problem If that gets you north of 360kw then you can look at mods. If not, continue troubleshooting. Then cam gears. Splitfires only if there's a problem with the stockers. But yeah, for me stock motor means -7s or -9s, if you're going for -5s then you want a built motor.

I have the same turbos and they come with actuators so i assume we're running the same actuators as well. I didnt do the install or set them up tho so i cant add anything else other than maybe try with the boost controller now with the extra preload and see how that goes. Here's my setup with boost curve; EBC is an old greddy profec

Oh im rb26 with twins and have still have the narrowbands in for closed loop. The bung is on the front pipe after the merge about 20cms before the cat. Wont worry about the temp sensor then - I would have to run two and pull the turbos to get the extra bungs done. Thanks for all the help.

Crank the preload up so they open at 15 psi, then try again (carefully as DVS32R says) with the boost signal disconnected an plugged. Remember that the exhaust pressure on the wastegate flapper also pushes it open (as well as the boost pressure on the actuator diaphram).

Tell me more; - are they same thread but thinner sensor so should plug straight in? - are they still effective that far from the turbo? - which one/how much?

Sounds like a wastegate is leaking or has next to no preload from the actuator (sorry i dont know what the half hole to full hole thing means, but since they open at 9 psi sounds ok). 9 is almost 10... hmm - at what rpm does it hit 10? I you have a boost leak it will run extra rich.

Defensive much? Perhaps those posters are thinking that whoever told you it made 450 is a liar, and therefore you cannot trust anything else this person has said to you. Also *middle sway bar ( in photo of interior) <= WTF??!! *torque split controller( not working at the moment will try to get fixed before sale) <= if the controller doesnt work it will be taily but still put torque to the front wheels. If it doesnt, it could be expensive to fix. *drilled rotors <= likely to crack with track use

On R32 nistune boards they supply a socket that you solder onto the PCB, and then you insert the nistune into that socket. Typically EEPROMs are not soldered directly either, but use a similar or identical socket. So, if the EEPROM has the same pin type, then you wont need to do any soldering you just pull out the EEPROM and insert the nistune (carefully, the pins are fragile - you can get special pliers to pull EEPROMs). IIRC the only possible difference is the cross sectional shape of the pins - nistune are round and EEPROMs are square. A socket may or may not be able to take both types depending on its design. The pin spacing and layout will always be correct. I'm 90% sure on that pin stuff.... check the nistune site they have installation instructions. Get someone whos a pro at surface mount soldering to do the soldering if its required. It would well be worth running CONSULT against your current setup to see if it reports any errors (you may be mistaken about the problem). If you have a problem that is sensor related, get that fixed before you do anything with tuning so you dont muddy the waters.