r32-25t

I decided not to worry about the crossmember just because you don’t see it

Nice mate, How long until yours goes away to be painted?

Even with a cast block you should be warming it up for 5-10mins anyway to get the oil warm and etc

who uses a gtr to pop to the shops? If Im going to bother to get the gtr out I’m going for a good drive

I got them from a company called deetuned and yeah they appear to be good quality, the nuts do up smoothly and etc

Car still hasn't moved, I’ve been told 2 weeks (feels like I’ve said that before) been buying a few odds and ends some titanium exhaust studs, a new rubber seal for the cam angle sensor and a new coil cover emblem

No dip stick in a dry sump

Just repeating what was said to me, take from it what you want

He said 300-500kms now that could be over kill but honestly that’s probably about 6 months worth of kms for me which is how often I change it in the gtr anyway

I was talking to the owner of the r32 gtr with the plates “billet” he has a 2.8 in a billet block making 1150hp at the wheels and regularly drives it on the street and has done 40 plus passes (best being a 9.0 at 160+mph) and he says it’s never been an issue and he drives it in stop/start traffic and the lot. What he did say is he changes his oil pretty regularly and makes sure the oil is up to 80° before he drives it and apart from that it’s no different to having a cast block

I have seen photos of the engine you’re talking about, but if the guy who builds more of them then anyone else and the manufacturer of the part says not to use it, that a good enough reason for me not to use it.

I’m going off what both pmc engines and bullet themselves say

Because you make the bore behind the sleeve thinner, the cast bore ends up cracking which give no support behind the sleeve and then it ends up cracking or if you go for the big sleeves with the flange on top you take the complete bore out and a lot of the deck which then take all of the integrity out of the deck and the deck cracks

Also don't forget The external oil pump kit you need (wet or dry is up to you)

Was talking to Herman at gtr fest and any block that has been sleeved he automatically condemns it

The main reason for going with shimless is of you intend of using 2 step or any other form of ignition cut such as anti lag or flat shift where you cut the spark as it can tend to float the valve slightly even with the best springs in the world

What ecu is in the car? What voltage did you set the tps at when you installed it?

Checked the oil level? Checked the codes on the attesa control unit?

The original vin is stamped into the fire wall

No chance I’d end up in that sizing

Unfortunately I’m not the only one

You may want to source another block to start the build with, they love to crack the decks with big power on stock internals

I’m thinking the 6466 should be good for about 550kw give or take a little and be really responsive.

With Japanese cars the vin number and the body condition is where all the money is, the only people who get hung up on engine numbers are Americans

I’m still going to stick to the 6466 with bigger rear, I’m still curious to see some results though a 6466 used to its full potential will scare the hell out of pretty much anyone I know which is the main reason I go roll racing