r32-25t

And then chase electrical gremlins instead of oiling issues

We have a very good oh&s policy in our garage, if you hurt yourself I’ll push you in front of a bus and they can deal with it

I wish we (me and the mrs) just look at it as we will take the financial hit now to save it costing more in the future.

The way I looked it. with the deck cracking being so common I didn’t want to chance it happening again and to be honest by the time you buy a block, test it, do the billet main caps, machine it, buy the head and main studs and etc you really aren’t getting much change from buying a billet block and if it happened again then I’d really be behind

Through hi octane

Made a short video today, trust me it’s worth watching IMG_7328.MP4

Turn the cam sensor bracket, the cam is triggering right near a tooth on the crank and the belt slack can cause it to either count an extra tooth in the cycle or miss a tooth in the cycle

Managed to find a block and it came with a guarantee that if it’s not perfect, it’ll be replaced

Yours makes mine look good

Kudos have them brand new, I had to buy one about a year ago

The elite 2500 makes diagnosis a lot easier then the platinum pro but if you don’t have uses for it’s extra features the platinum pro will do the job nicely. couple of things to check, lock the timing at 20° start the car and make sure it’s staying at 20 and also check in the ecu where the home signal is compared to the tooth, should be aiming for around 50%, also have you scaled your injectors in the ecu? If you’re using the haltech base map it will be set for 440cc injectors And on top of all of that having bigger cams will lower vacuum at idle and move where the engine sits at idle on the map

I know the wire you’re talking about and I’m pretty sure it’s an earth, may even be the other end of the earth attached to the alternator

You’ll need a precision 6870, 6 boost manifold, twin gates, 4in exhuast, cams, intake manifold, injectors, 3 fuel pumps, 100mm front mount intercooler, ecu, clutch, probably the a mechanical center put into the diff and you’ll definitely reach your 350hp goal with that

Im I’m still looking at that option, it’s just people getting stock and the risk of it testing up shit

The 2 outside ones are the sender and the middle is the light

At the moment I still don’t have a block and am exploring options

Small update, no photos but the head and all the parts have been dropped of to be ported and put together. The only parts that won’t be brand new is the head casting and cam caps

I think they do, they told me there was a 2 month or so wait and when I said that was fine with me and I still want one, I never got a reply

You may not but there are a lot of people who travel those distances for work every day

Vcam sold, exhaust cam still available

I would check your intercooler hoses first and then check the rear wheel on the rear turbo with your camera

I have for sale my vcam step one kit (fits unopened engines) comes with everything needed for use with an aftermarket ecu, was used in my car for less 5,000kms and is in perfect condition, rocker cover has been powder coated purple asking $3,750 also have a camtech exhuast cam 264 9.5mm lift, fits without the head needed to be modified, it doesn’t have a crack angle sensor pin fitted so would need to be used with an aftermarket trigger system $200ono located near narellan in Sydney south west

I enquired and basically got brushed off

It’s still not a realistic option for Australia until electric vehicle's can do over 1000kms with out a charge

How is that the bright side? The vast majority of cars on the road are internal combustion?