r32-25t

The factory r34 manual rb25 one

The only thing you can try with out pulling the box is bleeding the hydraulic system for the clutch and make sure the pedal bracket isn’t broken (has happened a lot). After that you’re pulling the box out to inspect everything in there to find the issue

As he said it will end up with a pretty decent sized cam to make those number and from experience they drive like shit

Most rb30 heads that are no longer on engines probably got replaced by a 25 or 26 one

Your mates an idiot

I thought they made a kit to fit those to the over the radiator intake

How much did they charge for this? Please pm me if you’d prefer

Pretty sure that the box that runs the intermittent wipers

They will easily fit in the boot to transport them around or even the back seat

Ok I’ve tried to be nice, hks and all the other Japanese companies stopped giving a shit about the rb26 power gtrs in 2007 when the r35 came out. The only reason they have made this is they know they will find a couple of stupid Americans that will pay for it just because it has hks written on it

Aussie company’s have put more r&d in to these cars then anyone else in the world, we are so far ahead because we haven’t tried to reinvent the wheel. the workshops here know what does and doesn’t work, that’s why Australians have built the fastest gtrs in the world and not just drag cars

Lets just get something straight AUSSIES DO IT BETTER end thread

I normally leave the box in there and pull the engine

I ended up getting my hands on a factory fuel sock, the feed pump is a walbro 460 it was one of the ones from the frenchys kit.

Sorry only just saw this, I had the frenchys in tank twin set up with -8 feed and return lines and just removed it to fit a single pump back in. ive modified the factory hat to take -8 feed and return hoses to a surge tank that I’m waiting to arrive and that’ll have twin pumps in it. I wanted the factory hat back in for the fuel light to work again and the gauge to read like factory again. The return port doesn’t connect to anything inside the tank it’s just open and pours straight into the tank

To me though if a 6466 is capable of mph in the mid 140s, It’s all the turbo most people will ever need including me

When I took my car to be tuned jem also said they’ve only had a 6766 work well once and believe it has to do with being the only turbo with a bigger front wheel then rear. If upgrading from the 6466 better to use a 6870

Everyone is keen for the oil stone but it can be very aggressive and if done wrong can make it so you won’t get any gasket to seal

the doubles are the way to go cause you’ll have boost trying to push them open as well that the pump I’d be using as well

Definitely will need the valve spring as mine floated way before what you’re chasing, some drop in cams will help up high but take away from from down low which you can fix by raising compression. big sump and stronger oil pump are a must, you’d be surprised how bad the factory sump is even with an aftermarket baffle installed

With gtr fest and 2020 done and dusted now is the time to start removing parts that are being replaced. first cab of the rank is the frenchies twin in tank kitfirst I fitted a 460 into the original cradle and put it back where it lives in the tank then I modified the original top hate to take -8 and put some wire through that can hold some current and sealed them with some fuel resistant epoxy

Will be keen to see how it goes, I’m looking at swapping mine to a 1.0 when I put the 2.8 in it, so looking forward to comparing them

Your 6466 will come on way faster then the -5s, I went from -5s to a 6466 .84ts and it’s all in at least 500rpm earlier

Use some wet and dry with petrol instead of water did you put stuff in the cooling galleries or are they all blocked?

I’m assuming it’s an open scroll