Wheezy

Being someone who has lived in quite a few different areas around melbourne, here is my experience. Pakenham to Carlton (5 years). Train is the cheapest and probably longest (time wise) solution. If you want to drive from the south east be prepared for a freaking early start and $$$. Fuel plus Etag which is $7 each way and parking on top of that gets expensive. Ringwood to Carlton for 9 months, train was the cheapest and the eastern freeway is not so bad until you need to get onto 'kunt' road Werribee to Melbourne and now Richmond the fastest and cheapest way is driving providing you can get cheap or free private parking If I was you I'd catch a tram from Carlton/Brunswick way and get a train straight to hawthorn from melbourne central (city loop). Zone one ticket all day costs f**k all and you dont have to drive. That part of the city is also full of great food and the cbd isnt too far either. Living Hawthorn way will be really expensive too.

Nismo parts are/were sold through link automotive last time I checked. Besides Nissan they were the official dealer in Aus.

I would be looking at coil packs / coil loom if you are getting actual spark break down. The CAS are usually all or nothing and Trent would have mentioned the timing being funny if the CAS was playing up. The curve looks ok, just on the low side. Unless the timing has been pulled back to keep it safe whilst you sort out missfire / timing issues? That would make a LOT more sense based on the curve.

That is a lot of boost. You should be Comfortably making 260-270 at those levels. Did Trent check the signal from the cas at high revs or it's more of a suspicion? Sounds more to me like a restriction somewhere. Roy mentioned the 20 responds very well to headers earlier in the thread iirc. Time for the old power of deduction me thinks.

How much boost pressure? Looks like around 1bar from the figure. The cas holding you back? And what exhaust manifold? Just trying to gauge if one of these is a compariable replacement to the trust item. Cheers.

10psi at 4200 if I read that correctly, that is very lazy compared to the ext gate 8cm on a 20? or larger exhaust housing?

1.9ish bar of boost? Pretty sure these (TD05,06, T67 and their like) wouldn't be able to flow more than 1.7bar (which is what trust quote for similar frame misti's, I would assume that the Kando are much the same). They seem to run out of their efficiency at around 1.5ish IIRC.

FWIW, Aussie R31 had the oil feed / return on all models.

Funny that the white R33 is the T67 10cm I mentioned earlier.... As said before, 98bp, T67 10cm, not 100% about cams.

If that the car I think you are talking about it has a T67 10cm (TRUST) and I'm pretty sure it has mild cams also Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

A loom is easy to cut wires off and hide them under the tape...If you have taken it for the injector loom and ignighter loom then it's pretty much worthless as you cannot plug it into an R32. As I said the plug for power is missing from what I can tell and I'm 99% sure the plug near the ECU for the body is for an earlier nissan.

Was this in an R31? Looks like a plug from something of that era near the ecu plug has been put on (and the rest removed and potentially fuel pump relay because there are two green relays there usually) and the plug for power that sits near the passenger strut tower is gone. I wouldn't touch the loom if it was going into an R32.

Take the breather hoses off the cam covers and vent to atmosphere. Could just be a dead PCV, blown turbo seal etc. Probably worth doing a compression test and a leak down test if you can arrange one.

Looks like I cannot PM you.... Honestly I'm sure we can work out a deal where it costs us both nothing But it could be a few months whilst I collect parts which I have thrown out / lost / sold etc, get new piping and a GTR BOV. If you aren't in a hurry you're on!

Yup, wishing more and more I had the standard runners and all the goodness that is factory idle controls. Just collecting parts and I'm going to come in for a tune once the intake is back to factory

The FF plenum did some funny things with the cam gears. Intake is advanced 8deg exhaust 0. Trent reckons at 4deg intake it made the same power / little more mid range torque and similar peak. I stressed I wanted to chase as much response as I could for tracks like Winton which I was visiting at the time. The first time there I noticed the car suffered in the mid range. It defiantly is noticeably more lethal in it's response in 3rd now (just from testing on the street) and it performed very well on another tight track the last time out on the track (Sale about a year ago now ) I suspect the standard intake will get me back to where I was with perhaps 200rpm earlier in response (IE your 21psi @ 4,000 would be insanely good). But keep that extra torque. I'm not worried about a drop off at 6,800. I have the rev limiter set to 7,600 since having new bearing put in two years ago. Perhaps once that is sorted and my heat soak issues (need to move the oil cooler) and weather or not the Garrett cartridge and better compressor wheel do the job they have been alleged to then I might get a Kando myself and put the trust away for safe keeping

Roy that 21psi was with the 8cm and cam gears or without the adjustable gears? Guessing this was with STD intake and trust manifold? Just trying to gauge compared to my 8cm as I get 1.25bar (18ish psi) by 4,200 but that was with the FF plenum and no cam gears. I now have cam gears and gain a little in the midrange (mostly some torque), but now drop off power at 6,500-6,800ish (cannot remember to be exact). The FF kept making power at 7,000 and wanted to keep going; but being fairly a standard (25 year old) engine/drive line I'm not going to rev to over 9,000. These Kandos L2's 'seem' close to the Trust ones. It would be interesting to see results from someone on a hub dyno. Perhaps a three way with my car, Roy's and someone else? STATUS I am looking at you Perhaps we should all put back on our standard intake too At least then the hot side can be sorted. But I guess depending on turbo combo the intake might come back into play if you are chasing ultimate response from a 20.

Infiniti M56 otherwise known as a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Fuga These will be on sale in aus later this year IIRC. If I was making a bet it would be on this.

Roy the Sierra is freaking awesome!

Very nice! Freshening up the L24, or just going to see how it goes?

Cant wait for this event. SAU NSW guys get on this, the SA peeps can tell you how awesome the last event was in Radelaide. They get better each time!!!

Guess we should tall all those C10, C110, C210 owners that they don't own a real GTR? Oh wait, skylines didn't exist before 1989

The internally gated TD05-18G 10cm is also available in a Trust kit. Having been passenger in an R32 GTST with one of these and comparing it to my TD06 they are more than enough for the street and deliver a noticeably smoother delivery. But on a 20 still fairly lethal enough to put a smile on your face. The TD05/TD06 really comes alive at 1.2-1.4 bar so screw the boost in I say. TLDR; nothing wrong with the internally gated TD05-18G 10cm. TD06-20G, id be looking at least at a 45mm external gate (going off the trust kit;s specs)

That is what I would do if I was paranoid about it.