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Hi guys - cracked radiator needs replacing Anyone know how interchangeable the skyline radiators are? For my series 2 Neo 6 will I need a R34GTT radiator, or are R33 ones the same etc? Anyone know specs/size? Oh yeah - and does anyone have 1? Cheers

I've got a few brand new little bits and pieces - boost or oil temp gauge (multicolour backlit), GFB bleed valve etc, or cash, if anyone has a RADIATOR!? I am after a radiator asap as mine has split - either a good condition stockie or even an aftermarket alloy one - to go in a series 2 stagea - I assume same fitment as R34GTT (?). Lemme know if u can help - reply post, PM or 0417 097 178 Adam

He got the long ones - the CES "Competition" dumps - ceramic coated, plus the CES Y-piece (uncoated). He told me he wouldnt say there's a massive peak power increase (he already had aftermarket dumps on there) but the RESPONSE is heaps better - boost comes on around 800 rpm earlier with the long split set-up... so an early and then long hard boost - to the point where he first thought it "felt" slower... coz before when it was coming on later it was more of a kick in the pants response - now it is an earlier stronger and more linear boost - but definitely faster once he started realising how much quicker his speedo was climbing than before. He feels that at the moment for his GTR set-up the competition, coated pipes might be considered overkill (stock turbos, stock boost, stuck ECU etc) but they have made an improvement which will only gain with the boost eventually upped and a bigger set of turbos on.

Split the stockie.... Hoping someone might have a spare radiator - maybe if you've changed to an aluminium one and got the stock one lying around?? Needs to go into a Series 2 Stagea - but I imagine same fitment as R34 Neo GTT... let me know! PM or 0417 097 178 Adam

Interested - but need to know what car it IS meant for - have u found that out? I'm in Perth to - so either PM me back or just call me 0417 097 178. Adam

PM sent SMS me 0417 097 178 and I'll cal u straight back.

Guess you havent searched in here before? Theres a thread right next to this one about CES dump pipes that I am surprised you missed - and a HEAP of other threads about them. U've got a few options... but first need to decide if you want a split or single set-up... split has reputed better performance, but is about double the price at $550 upwards (more if u coat it etc). Single pipes are much cheaper from around $300. Once you decide there's a few options: - get an exhaust shop u trust to do up a custom job of either single or splits (more shops likely to only do singles) OR - pay a bit more for a brand name single (eg HKS from Nengun; Blitz; a few others) OR - get CES to do you the best split system going around - they can post em to you and just get them fitted or have a go at it yourself. Prob more options, but that'll do ya... if you've got the extra couple of hundred $ go with the CES splits. If not - then do a search on here for the name BATMBL - selling both options - cheap single and split front pipes with happy customers.

Bout the only mod i have done already... did u just do cat back - or have u got full exhaust? I'm chasing some nice front/dump pipes. :wassup: Ive actually got a stock exhaust u were asking about but i'm over i WA - bummer.

From my understanding (which could easily be completely wrong lol) the HKS front pipe isnt even split... unless you buy the HKS "Extension Kit" that adds a tiny little 4 inch long split to the end of their single front pipe and is another $500+ ... Ive got an HKS exhaust (cat-back)which is awesome - good gains and nice noise without being too loud. However I am definitely going for split pipes up front CES style with the loooong split which is much better than the single HKS style, or even by adding their "extension kit". So yeah - just by saying "its HKS so must be better" is a bit assuming - maybe they've just determined their style of pipe pipe is just more commercially viable than splits... coz singles are half the construction price of splits. So basically - the CES splits at $550 is a lot cheaper than a $450 HKS single + a $400 HKS extension kit to get a split that isnt as long and seperated as the CES style. Feel free to point out if I am completely wrong - hell the HKS extension kit could be for something else completely... but yeah I am looking at purchasing front pipe soon so interested in this discussion... all I can offer by real evidence is that my mates GTR just had CES split pipes fitted and the difference is really, really noticeable... boost comes on so much earlier - close to 1000rpm earlier and then pushes harder all the way!

EDIT: Got replacement radiator fitted today by Abbott's here in Perth - aka now a Natrad franchise. Radiator for Stageas, series 1 & 2 is exactly the same as R33 Skyline Part number is: NIS039C/AK ADRAD COMP ASS. ------------------------------ Aaaargh - radiator died today - right along the bottom - Coolant splattered everywhere Anyways - anyone got radiator replacement specs... would mine on a Series2 be same as an R34 GTT?? Anyone got the specs etc that Id need to give to a radiator guy to make one up ... or even better know a part thats a straight swap and where to get it, or even better again got one lying around the place for me!!?? Any help or specs appreciated!

Unbelievably helpful! :headspin:

Hi - I am interested and would chip in a share of the table cost - but before committing Id appreciate a recap from someone in the know of where we would be at once we get the table... this is my guess - so correct me please: Once the table is bought and supplied to tuners who want it (eg Dr Drift; Ken @ Hyperdrive etc) we'll be READY TO GO for tiptronic and manual R34 Neo6 Skylines and Stageas - nothing else needed?? So probably something like... 1. One trusting person here buys the table - Ian or Ed? (with knowedge that at least a few of us will chip in a share of it eg $50, even if no-one else signs up) and they (or someone else) runs the group buy (makes copies of table info and all other needed tuning info etc to bundle up and post off with the daughterboards. 2. Suggestion: Restart a new Group Buy thread coz i bet a lot of R34 owners have given up on this one and havent popped back in a while - so one with a new title like "R34 Daughterboards by May 05 - ready to go so Sign Up now!" 3. Once sign-ups complete divide the total signups to share cost of table 4. Add cost of daughterboard - how much is this likely to be now by the way? - first post said $135AUD - but some posts since then talk about a new daughterboard etc 5. Take full payment and place order 6. Post them out with copies of table and all other info needed for tuning 7. Get fitted and tuned approx $500 8. Drive around with a much improved ECU set-up If someone that knows more about this than me can either correct me or confirm we are ready to go once the table is bought - and all up I am going to be up for say around $750 (board shipped say $200 + table share costs $30->$50 + fit and tune $500) then count me in

If you stumble on this post SK... couple of questions for ya or anyone else with some info Id appreciate on 2 things 1. SK, you mentioned somewhere I read that one of your favourite all-round intercoolers (best combo of trade-offs) was the actual GTR intercoolers. Just wondering how easily you think these would be to fit to Stags. And as part of that question - is there much difference between R32/R33/R34 intercoolers that would make any version more adaptable. I might be able to pick up a cheap R32GTR FMIC - but not sure how easily Ill be able to fit and pipe it up to the Series 2 Stag? 2. Regarding Piping set-up options (left pipe return under FMIC style vs up and round head already discussed)... but i am wondering if the most direct flowing + least amount of piping setup, if you can be bothered and got $, is by getting a new plenum with a front facing throttle so that the left side piping from the FMIC can just go straight up to it... piccy here: any thoughts on this type of set-up??? Or somewhere I can be pointed to for lengthy discussion and info on this sort of stuff to learn for myself? Thanks heaps! Adam

haha - answered my own query again - seem to be posting before I research a bit lately - sorry. Got a PM back from j-plus (Jeff) with some info you may all be interested in ... Jeff is a SAU sponsor and importer of Jap rims etc - so I asked him for some info about whether the rim widths I posted above would fit - and got back some useful info on offsets for the wider potentials of rims on Stageas... Just as a follow up - although BNR34 rims are 9" wide +30 offset they do fit ok on the front... but Jeff is right that the ideal for a range of reasons (handling/wear/etc) would be 8.5" max... but ey - Ill be getting them eventually anyway! Also - picked up another useful bit of info... if you are buying rims with the idea to ever be able to put 265 width tyres on - the rims need to be at least 8.5" wide - cant fit 265s to 8" or less wide rims. Also another tidbit most people would know but Ill post it anyway... the correct tyre combination for 18" rims to keep same rolling diametre and thereby keep Attessa happy when you do want more rubber at the rear is: 265/35R18 at rear = rolling daimatre of 643mm 235/40R18 at front = rolling diametre of 645mm Adam

Good luck with the car sale Lone... just a quick hijack - didnt you have some aftermarket goodies on your car? If so are these parts up for sale that Ive missed somewhere?? Adam

This offset stuff is really confusing to my poor brain. Found a set of 18 x 8.5 F (+40) and 18 x 9.5 R (+45) I've just been told by several import tune/wheel guys that have done several skylines and stags over here that i should be able to get the 9 1/2 " rears with a +45 offset on the rear "no problems". It dont make sense to me... R34 GTR rims fit at 18 x 9 (+40)... and with 9.5" the +44 sounds right to compensate for the extra 1/2 an inch... so how come posted above someone has said for +42 offset youd need a less than 7" wide rim??? brainstrain - hate feeling stoopid

Cool - I'll leave it to you guys - but I'm happy to pay a bit more (10 people = $30 bucks more) if it means not having to wait another 6 months (been that long since this thread started) - buts thats just my opinion Good work though - may sound like Im sh*tty but Im not - just used to group buys not taking so long to get off the ground... I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end!

I dont get it... if you (or someone) are willing to buy the $300 file... cant you just run the group buy and make up your costs depending on the number of orders - as was originally stated in the first post of this whole thread??? It stated that costs to set this up would be shared by the people in the group buy on top of the cost of the daughterboard... I'm confused.... I think I'll just stay out of it if its not that simple - to hard for my brain

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Good topic - I feel an essay coming on lol :Pimp2: First off - I dont agree with posting offers in the thread itself - actually its against the forum rules, and also think its bad form to post if you have no intention of buying (unless you are certain the seller is trying to dupe someone by not properly describing the goods etc), and as has been said - really bad form if you get shitty coz someone doesnt accept your offer... however... I sorta disagree Bass (and others) about not offering the price that seems reasonable to the offerer... I know your prices are reasonable Bass - but alot of people's arent. I dont think you can put out a blanket call for no low-balling - its the way economics works - despite the best efforts of modern stores to institutionalise fixed-price shopping - if people dont want to sell things without negotiating - go work in Woolies Setting the terms of the sale is the SELLERS responsibility - if you dont want offers then set your price and write FIRM in your post, then just ignore PMs that arent on the money. And who's to say what is a "ridiculous" offer and what isnt - take a look at AllBlitz's thread about his 19" wheels - started at $2300, and now its down to $1650 - thats a big drop - so who here has the right to say that anyone would have been wrong to offer say $1800 early on - hed have been happier than getting the $1650 now.... (and sorry Allblitz that wasnt an offer ) every seller has different motivations, needs for selling, how quick they need cash, and lots of other factors that can determine who has the nogotiating strength. The only way to clarify your selling position is by making it clear in your for sale post - without putting FIRM, i dont think you can complain about receiving offers. Unless you do write FIRM - then negotiating is actually the best way to go - it allows two people to state their "ideal" selling and buying prices, each laughable to the other at first - but then find some middle ground that both agree on. If its done with the right attitude then it can be mutually rewarding - but it is the people that haggle with a bad attitude that wreck the fun. And for the record - I'm a haggler and proud of it - its fun for both parties if done with a good attitude.... supermarkets/pubs/low priced goods etc are the ONLY place I wont bother with a good natured haggle... but shoes, clothes, furniture, car parts, cars, jewellery, rent, houses - you name it and it has a good sized mark-up over what the seller is happy to accept and Ill usually get 20 - 60% of just about anything. But as soon as they say "not negotiable" or "fixed price" theres no point getting shitty thats for sure... lifes too short. But yeah - just punched some sums into the calculator to estimate how much Ive saved on ALL my $100+ purchases this year (furniture, car, clothes) by haggling... itd be around $12,000 SAVED... so it all adds up - no way id have half the goodies I do now without saving by negotiating. But yeah - both parties have to WANT to haggle and be positive and both be satisfied with the outcome or it can be the a sh*tty experience. So if u dont - just write FIRM - easy as that! Cheers Bass - good discussion topic! :hearts:

Hmm I know nothing about this stuff - sounds like a few of you doing some good work to get this sorted - but the first post was like October last year!? Am keen on this duaghterboard - can someone please tell me how long until we might see a post that goes something like this: That kind of post would be WONDERFUL to see soon!

In last several weeks on here Ive seen four sets sell for $2500 and one set for $2200... so yeah - $2500 or under is my budget!

Thanks Leech - u r correct... it was funny but I answered my own question searching through all the Stagea pictures I downloaded months ago before deciding to buy - didnt remember downloading this one - but it shows the Blitz Stagea intercooler its not one with piping that returns under the FMIC lol