Yorik

eBay... i got one for my monitor for like $10... here is a pic..

Umm, the one on my monitor is pretty close to the one on my car...

Well I am more keen on lift then duration, so I am more inclined to take the 260 deg in/ex with 10.85mm lift, of course this also means that I ahve to change to solid lifter, valve springs, retainers as well as my base diameter changing.. I will also be fitting a metal head gasket, Kevlar timing belt, oil restricter and other associated guff at the same time. Uncomplicated, simplistic view on cams.. An increase in Lift will give mid range and good strong torque, where as increase in duration will create more power but higher in the rev range, generally at the sacrifice of low rpm power and stability.. If you want to know more, I suggest research, and also the program Desktop Dyno.. Create an RB engine block from details widely available and then swap different cam profiles in and see what happens, I did this for my SR20 and I put around 40 or so different cam profiles into the program so that I could tell what sort of Torque and Power curves I coule expect.. From this, along with financial constraints and nto wanting to remove the head, I chose the Tomei PONCAM...

Right well as I said before I don't have a GTR badge on a GTST, but I did put one on my monitor at work as I am a long way away form my car (1600kms) I was told to post a pic, so here it is.. Shame on me.. PS. Incase your wondering, yes I do have a pic of my car on my desktop.. sad...

There is a guy on here selling the viper with a link to a site witha lot of info, Search it up dude..

I haven't as yet, but will be ina few months, I am planning on going for the 260deg 10.85mm lift PROCAM along with the associated guff..

http://www.slip-angle.com/ That is one fo the Mapmaker bits of software written for the RR firmware... Some of us waited on the GTechPro Forums for ages for them to bring out the new Firmware and it was worth it. I used this RR side of it to help tune my rear suspension, the mapmaker software was good to ascertain where I was having issues with corner entry.. You could use this for Motorkhana with good results.. If you have a basic understanding of suspension setups and what effects your changes will have (okay, so more than basic) then this is very usefull.. I mostly use my GTechPro Comp for drag times and Power runs, tuning the car on the highway is my only option as no dyno for a very very long way.. I got the Comp specifically to measure the difference in Wheel Horespower before and After fitment of my Tomei PONCAMS into my SR20... I had done numerous Desktop Dyno simulations and I just wanted to prove them one way or another.. And it worked.. Since I lunched my PC, I have lost the key for the software, however I was the first person to buy it (also the first time I ahve ever payed for Software) I am pretty certain that I will be able to get a key again..

In general terms Tomei provide just about everything in their line up, you just ahve to know what to pick.. You generally don't need the solid lifters until you are long way into the Lift side of things. If you are prepared for this then go for it..

Tomei Solids are designed for cams of a smaller overall rolling diameter.. the Stock diameter is 32mm and the Tomei Solids are designed for a 30mm diameter camshaft, so that you don't need to reshim for the installation of the higher lift PROCAM... Look again dude.. if you change to solid lifters, you might want to consider the base diameter of your camshaft... Tolerances here are not good for 1mm of pliable crap to runa round!!!

Hi This article/how-to from whiteline is what you are looking for, once you install them, you will see how the size of the rings is important to fitting them.. http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs...203a_KCA349.pdf HINT: If you cut a ring, get a large hose clamp and fit it around the ring to keep it in place.. As an idea, if you have never doen this before it might take an hour or two, if you have done it before, then 45 minutes is about right for all four pineapples fitted drive in drive out.. Enjoy!!

Years ago I used to get a Learner in the middle lane of a three lane highway dn then cut laps around them in my RX3, it would ahve been a little intimidating as a little lime green 2 pack RX3 came past on one side back tyres a smoking then chnge two lanes in front of you and then cut back and do it again.. Since then I have grown up, sold the RX3 and now I only tangle with Learners in ym wokr car.. Most Learners up here are in Landcruisers and since my last car was written off by one, I am little weary, the work Landcruiser on the other hadn is indestructable!!! __________________

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I am going with the HKS Twin Power soon, so I am going to be in a similar situation, I would suggest a nice Bracket, but by the same token, I lime the stock look under my engine bay..

dude, buy one off of vpwmailorder or anywhere really, the RR is great, I have the Comp with the RR Software adn I also have the Mapmaker software and all the guff. If you can't get toa dyno or near anything good this thing is the shiznit... I measured the difference in my cam change on my SR20 with one of these.. All good...

That would chew them out, and render them useless for the C Spanner... Not a good idea.. Get the spanner and don't screw your nice expensive TEIN's..

Mine is actually Metallic Black, as I am new to the whole Skyline thing, but an old hand with S13's I am not sure if it is very common. I haven't seen another one anywhere.. It wasn't my first choice of colors, but with the fruit on this car I couldn't pass it up for the price I payed..

I am hoping to fix the lack of Cam info on these forums over the next few months. Wiht my previous engine (SR20) I ran PONACAM's and I measured a nice imporvement over the whole rnage with GTech Pro Comp.. I will be doing the saema long with Desktop Dyno simulations.. but I will be going with a set of low duration high lift PROCAM's on my RB26. Hopefully I can prove that the extra dollars you pay for Tomei equipment is worth it in the mid range.. I don't know how mnay people will benefit from it, but I know that my work on the SR20, made a lot of interest in the SilviaWA forums.. I enjoyed the PONCAM's, but I will be going more 'insane' with the RB26 as I live on strange roads and I believe that mid range torque hold the key to fun up heere, so I am lookinf gor as much lift as I can get.. Hoping to help......

Umm, I stuck a GTR badge on my Computer Monitor at work so that I felt closer to my car (it is currently 1600kms away) is that Shameful, if so, I will take a pic and post it up!!!

Yes it is the solenoid, depending on the installation position and mountings will determine how loud it is in the cabin.. Basically when you hear the clicking, the AVC-R is gating the Wastegate Actuation feed with a variable Pulse-Duty cycle.. The frequency of this is 40HZ, hence why you can here it is a very fast clicking noise.. I take it your solenoid was mounted behind the front passenger side strut tower? In this position even if it is mounted on the rubber it will reverberate through the cabin as the wheel arch acts like a speaker.. On my 180, I mounted mine there due to room constraints elsewhere and I found that once I got used to the noise I only ever heard it when I was on the floor at low revs.. You should have a little play with the AVC-R, especially things like "Initial duty cycle" for gear specific boost tuning, with this ou can tune out boost spikes or tune them in slightly for higher gear changes to get a bit extra.. Also consider fitting and using the Scramble boost, I found this to be a great addition once fitted and set properly..

Prayers made.. Please pray for my car to pull decent numbers in both HP and TQ on the dyno in a fortnight..

I don't hate female or male drivers, just a certain demographic driving large 4WD station wagons, like Land Cruisers, Patrols and Pajero's.. I have had one car written off by one and have been passenger in three accidents where these cars have been involved and the typical (I am bigger and can drive over you) tactic has been employed and cars and people have been majorly damaged...

I am not into that stuff, but another thing I think is a little ricey unless you really need it, but I am getting one anyway, is the Do Luck Rear Cross Brace.. Like the Strut Brace between the B Pillars, behind front seats... Don't know why, I just like em...

I had 3 x 52mm Trust Guages in an offset DIN mount in my 180SX, took em out before the car was taken from me.. The guage mount itself is DIN size with three steps, each step holds one 52mm guage no issues.. I had Oil Temp, Oil Press, Water Temp.. I will be installing this in my GTR soon.. My car came with this, but I have seen that Car Toys stock these.. Give them a call, I think it was like $35 for the mount..

for the R32 I ahve seen advertised weights between 1430 and 1530 kgs. So in my GTech, I will put 1600kgs to allow for me and half a tank of gas.. We really need someone who has weighed one at a weigh bridge, I can but won't be for a few weeks..

Never put a sticker on your car for soemthing that can be sold at the pub. Never have your system pumping near where you park your car. Large viscous dogs are good for fending off would be thieves but are no good for upholstery. Lock up garage is good. Up my way cars are broken into not to steal them, but just to take change adn cigarettes, they go staright past cd's, cameras, even phones.. I have a 2 way car alarm as well, so I know when my alarm whinges about anything..