Yorik

I would have thought that the major issue for privately owned tarmac/bitumen was the insurance issues and implications of having people on it.. Up here there is a really large cememnt pad where a massive shed used to be, the guy who owns the block uses it himself for suspension tuning, he said that if there was no incurance implications he would let us on there for a thrash once in a blue moon..

Where are you getting your Toluene that cheap? It is costing me a lot more than that.

I'd sya that particular COatne Booster would be a flame retardant.. Slowing down the burn will decrease pinging.. Especially if they got no extra power out of it, it shows that it has no greater burning potential.

This shows what I expected, NF used to have a chart, which I ahve at work in fact, about this and they put Nulon Pro Strength on teh smae par as their own.. I will stick with Nulon Pro Strength as I get it cheap through Coventries on a company discount..

Love the factory wing, I am definitely keeping mine, it is like the 180SX Type X wing, pure sex.. The Factory BOV's are supposed to be good to hold 600hp, so should be fine for a whiel I would say..

For those of use lucky enough to have access to any of those fuels.... The rest of us, (read people living in the sticks) use what we can get.. Like I said above, the only Octane Booster I use is Nulon Pro Strength which has had no advesre effects on my plugs, and has given me some nice warm fuzzy feelings of security, false it 'may' be...

The AVC-R is an amazingly powerful EBC, download the manual and read it, many times, from what you are talking about here, ti seems that your Gear based Feedback is set incorrectly and your gear based initial duty cycle is also incorrect.. These are critical elements in tuning your AVC-R properly, I spent some hours and lots of fuel tuning my AVC-R on my 180, tuning on a quiet road (lots of quiet straigh road up here.) Basically if your feedback setting is too fast or slow in high gears the AVC-R will do one of three things, fluctuate rapidly, drop boost, increase boost. The effect that you get is also dependent on the Duty cyle of the RPM based settings.. Here is the process that I found best to tune my AVC-R: (may or may not work for you) Set the intended boost pressure at about 0.2 kg/cm above your wastegate actuator level Using the process from the manual, get the AVC-R into learn mode and drive around until it can hold the boost pretty closely. Pick a gear to tune the start off with and stick with it (2nd gear is good) Set the gear based initial duty cycle to a figure where it doesn't spike coming onto boost Set the gear based feedback to a level where it holds boost through to red line (or theoretical max).. Tuning too high or low will exhibit strange results, this can take some time. This is also a broad range setting so get it as best you can Adjust the gear based initial duty cycle so that boost comes in as early as possible without any spiking (this is always fun..) Go back to RPM based duty cycle and iron out the dips and peaks, the AVC-R will actually do this itself in Fuzzy logic mode if you have gear based learning turned on, but it is slow to do so. Tune the next gear in a similar fashion to above.. After each gear is tuned you will notice that the numbers in the Gear based feedback settings follow a pattern, this is where the speed of your actuator is coming into play.. All of the functions int eh AVC-R are there for a reason, the fuzzy logic has boundaries, some of which I find to be a little restrictive, but considering that the unit needs to be able to go into "anyones" vehicle they have cut it down far enough.. In the cases where the self learning doesn't work quick enough or doesn't adjust far enough, it needs to be helped along the way with some manual intervention.. If you can read and understand the manual and what each function does than the AVC-R is a perfect EBC for you, if you don't understand it, take it somewhere and have it professionally tuned..

Avgas is leaded dude, bye bye EGO sensor.. Avgas is not a good idea.. Cat Converters aren't fond either.. Toluene can be purchased from any Hardware store.. If you have access to 98 and your car is that stock, Toluene will do nothing for you, you will get no extra performance or protection over 98.. I'd stick with it and save the extra $$$

Horn

Okay, that is going down as the most useless post that I have ever had the pleasure of witnessing. I think we need a place to keep such things.

With my last car I always ran Premium and an Octane Booster, mostly becasue of where I live adn not trusting the fuel.. I religiously endorse Nulon Pro Strength Octane Booster.. It costs more than most others, but doesn;t leave a bad smell. Some Octane boosters actually only slow the burn rate of the fuel down, this is not always what you may want. A good true Octane Booster is Toluene, aka Methyl Benzine, that stuff has a RON of 130 and a MON of 124, costs about $25 for 4L which would treat one tank of fuel quite nicley. This stuff will increase the Octane effective rating of your fuel... What is your intention for running the Octane Booster, are you going to increase Timing advance, run a little extra boost, or is it just for security?

for $300 you won;t get that stuff, but for 410 you will come damn close, buy a few extra accessories and you got it, check teh group buy section... Not Blakc Wiring though...

Also suffering this, trying to upload my Dyno Print out..

The GTR standard injectors are 440cc, are yellow/mustard in coloring, generally the coloring of injectors is not the defining factor, check the aprt number, some people like to paint there injectors, so check the part number to be sure.. BTW, I used to ahve standard GTR injectors, but now I ahve SARD 700cc jobbies that are a really pretty blue color..

Extra features available int he alarm, software programming and more inputs with different polarities is generally the difference between the cheaper adn the more expensive alarms, I am more inclined to pick up a more expensive alarm than a cheaper one as I generally use the extra options and features.. I also fit the alarms myself, I used to a lot of car installs for work, so alarms are a walk in the park for me.

It's the part number, the Z32has the part number "30P00" this info is available in plenty of places on the net, google it!!!

try nissansilvia.com

Strangely enough Spray and Wipe is great for home carpet stains and spills, I ahve also used it to remove stains from an older car.. I once left an Iced Coffe full on the back seat of my 180, a few days later, (I live in the Pilbar it was like 40 every day) I came ack to my car and the back seat had soaked up all the off milk, was one of the most disgusting smells that I have ever experienced. Took weeks to get the smell out, and basically once the smell was gone, a week later the car was smashed, poor car..

What I meant was teh Torque Guage is fed from teh ATTESSA ECU... wording was not good. I was just replicating what was stated above..

torque sensor is fed from teh ATTESSA ECU from memory..

That is sooo shame file material.. Pics and post em up in the Shame File GTR badge on GTST thread.. I posted the pic of my GTR badge on my Work monitor...

Horn!!

Spraying water before the turbo is soo wrong, water forms droplets that are as sharp as diamonds, great if you want to grind down your compressor wheel slowly, but that is your choice to make.. The best Water/Methanol mix is 50/50, I used to run a water/methanol mix when I was running in engines to keep the intake charge as cool as possible, used to remove it once run in and only ever refit if I wanted to get some extra advance..